By George.Curtis2 - 19 Mar 2015
Flying Fish Articles
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Details of Port Ghalib Marina
Hurghada Marina
Reports
Port Berenice 23°57.00 'N 35°34.00 'E
Port Ghalib Egypt 25°32.00 'N 34°38.50 'E
Hurghada 27°13.50 'N 33°50.69 'E
Abu Tig Marina 27°24.00 'N 33°40.00 'E
Endeavour Harbour 27°33.75 'N 33°47.71 'E
Sheik Riyah Harbour 28°08.70 'N 33°39.40 'E
El Tur 28°14.00 'N 33°36.57 'E
Sheratib Shoals 28°38.00 'N 33°11.36 'E
Ras Abu Zenima 29°02.63 'N 33°06.80 'E
Ras Matarma 29°26.00 'N 32°45.60 'E
Port Suez 29°57.00 'N 32°34.00 'E
Port Said 31°15.30 'N 32°18.50 'E
Suez Canal
Visa requirements
A visa is required for all nationalities viiting Egypt. It can be obtained from any Embassy in advance but it is perfectly OK to obtain one on arrival in Port Said (if heading south) or Port Ghalib (if heading north). Visas are for one month and can be extended, certainly for as much as six months. Multiple entry visas may be had on request.
Entry requirements
Yachts should carry registration papers and may be asked for insurance details. See Noonsite for a warning that the new SSR registration document is NOT being accepted by the Suez Canal Authorities as it is not stamped.
Transit requirements (departing one port, entering another)
Visiting yachts require a so-called "Cruising Permision" document, issued at Port Ghalib to yachts heading north This is valid for either one month or two months; it is probably worth obtaining a 2 month visa as the cost will probably be less than renewing it if for some reason you are delayed. In 2008 a 1 month Crusing Permission for a yacht up to 18 m LOA cost US$30 .This permission allows the boat to call at all Marinas on the coast without further officla fees (but marina berthing charges ARE payable)
At Port Said a different procedure with higher higher fees applies.
Search and rescue
Forget it! You are on your own except for other cruisers.
Emergency and health services
Importing spares
You MUST appoint an agent who will undertake to clear the spares (strictly, "Replacement Parts") through Cairo Customs and deliver them to your yacht complete with attendant Customs Officer. Expect to be charged US250 plus for this service- even if the parts are only worth a few dollars.
See Exodus (The escape from Egypt) [http://cic.oceancruisingclub.org/articles/2423/MOORE.pdf?1291028723], Flying Fish 2008/2, for a personal experience of this.
Useful languages
Other comments
Egyptians are said to have come from Outer Space. Certainly their way of conducting business is a culture shock to most Westerners and Antipodeans. The rule is, keep your cool and keep bargaining.
Recommended cruising guides
Red Sea Pilot, 2nd Edition by Morgan and Davies, published by Imray, Laurie, Norie and Wilson
Some of the ports of entry
Port Ghalib; Port Said
DO NOT BY-PASS PORT GHALIB IF HEADING NORTH. Streamlined procedures at low prices operate here but in Port Said, Saffaga and Hurghada the old rules apply, you will need the services of an Agent and can expect to pay in excess of US$250 for the documents you will require.
Harbours to leave your yacht for 1 month or more
Hurghada Marina; Abu Tig Marina, Port Ghalib Marina
Weather information
Forecasting weather in the Red Sea and especially in the Gulf of Suez is particularly difficult. GRIB files give the direction to expect but are often out on wind speed by 50%. Reports from other cruisers via one of the SSB Nets wil help you form a picture of what is actually happening..-
Tidal information
Cruising permits and restrictions
Visiting yachts require a so-called "Cruising Permision" document, issued at Port Ghalib to yachts heading north This is valid for either one month or two months; it is probably worth obtaining a 2 month visa as the cost will probably be less than renewing it if for some reason you are delayed. In 2008 a 1 month Crusing Permission for a yacht up to 18 m LOA cost US$30 .This permission allows the boat to call at all Marinas on the coast without further officla fees (but marina berthing charges ARE payable)
At Port Said a different procedure with higher higher fees applies.
Radio and communications
HF transmissions can often be heard clearly at distances of up to 120nm. - Communicating with the SAILMAIL station at Abu Tig is difficult until one gets north of its location.
Abu Tig Marina
Date of Information: April 2005
Submitted by: John A Whyte
Abu Tig was the first marina to be built in the Red Sea. It is part of the El Gouna resort complex which has six 5 and 4 star hotels, shops, restaurants and bars, an 18 hole golf course, etc., etc. already finished and operational. The marina forms only a small but vibrant part of it. It truly is an oasis after the trip up the Red Sea and is also a base for those yachts that come out of the Med. and cruise this area and the Gulf of Aqaba. The marina is well run, secure, and a great place to stop for a week or two whilst going inland to see the Nile Valley and Cairo or just to relax in after the run from SE Asia. It is essential to book a berth well in advance. In 2005 that was prior to Christmas 2004 to obtain a place in April. Costs are very reasonable. In 2005 a berth was $US10 per day or $US150 for a month for boats under 17m.
APPROACH AND ENTRY
The approach is very straightforward both night and day but care is needed at night to thread your way through the reefs from Hurgarda. The entrance buoys and beacons to the marina are lit. The marina does not monitor VHF16 so make contact with them on VHF73. On entry the dock staff will come out in a dory to lead you in and put a person aboard to help you if there are only two of you or if you request it. The tie up is Med. moor but with 4 point holding rather than the usual 3. Each berth has electricity and water.
CHECKING IN AND OUT
Abu Tig does not have Port of Entry status so unless you have checked in at Port Ghalib you will have to check in at Hurgarda as you come past. The procedure is all as the Red Sea Pilot.
COMMUNICATIONS
The airport of El Gouna is between El Gouna and Hurgarda (but so far away from the marina that you cannot hear any aircraft) and has infrequent flights to Cairo but a large number of charter flights from Europe so crew changes are both cheap and easy. Within the complex there is a cheap shuttle bus system that can take you around the various areas, there is a bus station with buses to Hurgarda and coaches to Cairo, Luxor, etc. There are bikes to hire, horses to hire, cars to hire, taxis to hire, boats to hire, etc., etc., etc.,
FACILITIES
The facilities at Abu Tig are excellent. All around the marina are shops, restaurants and bars. There is a small chandlery, a bank with ATM, an internet café, a small supermarket and a bakery. The shower/toilet block is a big disappointment. It is very small, in not very order and located in the marina office building which is a long way from the visitor’s berths. For visitors the 3 Corners Hotel just behind the berths offer hotel membership at $US10/person/month and this gives you free use of the swimming pool, showers and toilets and discounts on drinks, meals, gym, etc. .
FUEL, GAS, WATER There is a fuel dock but, at present, the marina deliver fuel to your boat in either your own or their jerry jugs and they help you get them on board and help you refill your tanks. The staff in the office and the marina are friendly, helpful, welcoming and competent. Gas bottles can be refilled; there are numerous rubbish bins regularly emptied and the whole area is well kept. The water is well water and some stomachs may rebel but by this time most cruisers should not have problems!
PROVISIONING Reprovisioning is possible at the little supermarket in the marina or at one of the two or three in the “Downtown” area in the centre of the complex which is a five minute shuttle bus ride away. For more serious reprovisioning then a trip to Hurgarda and the bigger supermarkets and market there are a better bet.
EATING OUT
You are spoilt for choice and the standard of most of the restaurants is excellent..
LAND CRUISING In the marina there is a very good travel agent, ProTours. They are located just behind the marina office. They will arrange tours and trips inland throughout Egypt. Most yachts wait until Abu Tig to leave their boat and go off for extensive sight seeing etc.The journey to Luxor from here is two hours or more shorter than from Port Ghalib. Most of the tours they arrange for you seem to start on a Monday so be aware of this when considering how long you need to book in for. The most popular tour is for 8 or 9 days encompassing Luxor, a 3 day Nile cruise, Aswan, Abu Simbel, an overnight train to Cairo and back to the marina. The cost, depending upon the standard of hotel chosen, is $US700 – 950.
CUSTOMS FOR THE BOAT AND PERSONAL VISAS
The importance of taking 2 months or more Customs clearance for the boat cannot be overstated if you want to land cruise in the light of the above. The same is to be considered with regard to personal visas. You will only get one month on entry so consider the necessity of renewing the visa in Hurgarda.
THE IMRAY RED SEA PILOT
This publication is excellent and very comprehensive. You will find all the main anchorages listed all the way up the Red Sea. Do not contemplate a trip up or down the Red sea without it.
Abu Tig Marina Manager/Harbour Master: Philip A Jones Address: El Gouna, Red Sea, Egypt Tel: ++2 065 3580 073; Fax: ++2 065 3580 040; Mob: ++2 012 2230
El Tur
Submitted by: Dick Moore, ALIESHA February 2008
El Tur on the west coast of Sinai is a good natural harbour and a safe haven for yachts fighting their way north up the Gulf of Suez. It is a long day’s sail from Hurghada, about 70nm and about 120nm south of Suez.
The approach is straightforward provided one takes note of the small island lying just south of the harbour entrance, which has the wreck of a ship showing above the surface at all states of the tide. If approaching at night there is a flashing red light on a tripod on the sandspit to port and a large, unlit mooring buoy about 500 yards south of the position given above.
Anchor on sand in about 5-7 metres a little north west of the jetty for the oil rig support vessels which lies on the starboard side. We rode a 45 knot blow here for 5 days without a problem (apart from the blown sand!)
For security reasons (?) yacht crews may not land on Sinai, even though you may have a valid visa and the yachts has a valid Cruising Permission. We tried to circumvent this by going ashore on the sandspit which forms the port side of the harbour and visiting the hotel which is situated there. The manager was most agitated and said we MUST return immediately or he and we would be in trouble with the Police. He even summoned his chief of security to escort us back to the dinghy. As we were pinned down there for 11 days by the strong winds we ran short of food but could not get provisions. Luckily the English skipper of an oil-rig support vessel took pity on us and let us buy fresh fruit and vegetables from his storeroom. So El Tur is a good port in a storm but not exactly a cruising destination!
Hurghuda
Submitted by: Dick Moore, ALIESHA, February 2008
Hurghada Marina is up and running and makes an attractive stopover for yachts making their way north towards Suez. See http://www.hurghadamarinaredsea.com/subpage.aspx?id=2
The entrance is easy to spot, being just south of the ferry terminal and marked by green and red lighthouses, one on each breakwater. Call Hurghada Marina on Ch 71 for a berth. The staff will come out in a launch to guide you to your berth and help you to moor, Mediterranean style. Once there, Manager Sherif Sami and his team will do everything they can to make your stay pleasant.
In the surrounding area of Sakkala there are a host of workshops, paint shops, engineering shops and chandleries, catering for the fishing fleet and the 1200 dive boats said to operate in those waters. Sherif and Hisham, his deputy, can find you the part or the service you require.
On-site is a small supermarket and a bank and three cafes were being completed when we left in mid-October 2007. However, within a mile are all the shops, food stalls, banks and restaurants you could want. This is an interesting area, typically Egyptian and we preferred it to the modernity and cosmopolitan nature of Abu Tig marina at El Gouna about 15NM further north.
We had engine problems, now resolved. ALIESHA has been in the marina since May 2007 and has been well cared for during our absences. One word of caution, however. DO NOT plan to check in to Egypt in Hurghada - at least until the Marina becomes a port of entry which is planned. Until then, check in at Port Ghalib, 120nm further south. There you will enjoy a simplified and much cheaper check in procedure without the need to appoint a local agent.
Port Berenice
Submitted by: Dick Moore, ALIESHA, Feb 2008
Port Berenice offers a welcome refuge from the northerly winds experienced in this part of the Red Sea. It lies some 15 miles in from the rhumb line, in a landscape so barren we were reminded of TV pictures from the moon. The co-ordinates given above are where we anchored along with ALDEBARAN, whose journal is also included in these reports (Passage report, Massawa, Eritrea to Fineke, Turkey.)
Here you have nothing ashore but desert to gaze upon, while astern you may see the occasional fishing boat also seeking shelter or possible trawling the waters of the bay. We were in about 7m on sand with good holding.
There is an Egyptian Naval base a few miles further up the bay. The Authorities were said not to welcome visiting yachts.
Port Ghalib
Date: March 2007 Submitted by: Dick Moore, ALIESHA, February 2008
Comments: Port Ghalib is the first Port of entry in Egypt for yachts travelling north. It is part of an ambitious development which when finished will result in a town of 20,000 people built around a network of canals and basins not unlike Port Grimaud in the south of France. In 2007 it was far from complete but there was a place to check in, a quay alongside which to moor, electricity and water (with some difficulty) and fuel from the pump at a price. Ashore there was one hotel with bar and restaurant, a swimming pool and staff who could fix car rental and trips to e.g. Luxor. It was luxury for all of us battling up the Red Sea.
All cruisers travelling north are advised to check in here at Port Ghalib. The Egyptian government has set this place up as a kind of showcase with streamlined (by Egyptian standards) procedures. The Port Captain, Sherif Fawzi and his team are keen to make visitors feel welcome and to help them with the necessary formalities. In 2007 Customs had an office in the port, on a dock just inside the entrance to starboard and next to the Port Captain’s office. Immigration also have an office but had not got around to staffing it, which meant that some paperwork had to go to the nearby airport. This protracted the check-in and internal check-out somewhat but the situation should improve once the Immigration people move to the port.(In 2009 I have been told that there are still not enough Visitors to warant a full-time Immigration staff on the site but that the past delays have largely been overcome).
Visitors to Egypt need a visa and a one month touristone will be granted on arrival. This can be extended to two or even six months as required. The yacht needs a “Cruising Permission” which may be for one month ($30) or two ($60). It is advisable to spend the extra few dollars and get the two month version. This is because obtaining a second month’s worth in Saffaga or Hurghada further north will cost about $250.00 US via one of the local agents further up the coast. Pat and Olivia Murphy on ALDEBARAN have more details in their Passage Report “Massawa Eritrea to Fineke, Turkey”.
See also the following which was received from Captain Fawzi, Port Captain of Port Ghalib in February 2009
This is an abridged and edited version of a report kindly supplied by Capt Sherif Fawzi, Port Captain of Port Ghalib, in February 2009. It contains current and valuable information on the different check-in processes currently in force in Egypt.
With depths of 6m in the outer basin, Port Ghalib provides 500 berths for yachts up to 50m, alongside over 5 km of purpose-built quays. All berths are fully serviced with fresh water and electricity, with diesel and petrol available on the fuelling berth. Showers, toilets and laundry service are provided ashore, along with phone and internet communications.
The Capitainerie, completed in July 2007 houses the customs and immigration authorities that handle for international arrivals and departures. It also contains the VIP lounge, a bank, duty free shop and chandlery, a sea food restaurant and open-air coffee bar, as well as a fully equipped gym. The marina management operates from the same building, with their fully equipped control room offering a commanding view over the entrance channel and the marina.
With many marina berths already complete, and much of the infrastructure and amenities in place, Port Ghalib is already becoming a popular destination for the more adventurous who want to be among the first to enjoy the Red Sea’s amazing water-sports or explore the desert oases and ancient monuments of the Nile Valley. Port Ghalib can be used as a base or transit point, to open up international passages, as well as for local trips to Cairo and the tourist sites of upper Egypt
Access
The marina is accessed via a natural 700m long channel, running almost due east-west, through the shoreline reef. There is a fairway buoy (flash white 2 every 10 seconds) positioned at 25 32 001 N 034 38 707 E
Marina services
Fresh water
Electricity (220V & 380V).
Diesel and petrol fuel at the fuel berth operated by Caltex. (Diesel pumps discharge at 80, 200 and 500 liters/minute). Diesel price US dollar 0.55/liter
Communications (telephone, e-mail, Internet, facsimile)
Laundry Service
Slipway
Showers / Toilets
24 Hour Security
Car Parking
Medical Attendance
Solid waste disposal
Shuttle/Transportation Service available subject to prior arrangement with Marina Management
These rates are subject to 10% Sales taxWater and electricity charged extra as per usage;
Water: US$ 7 per 1000 lit (m3) and Electricity: US$ 0.280 per kWh.
>
(No rates were supplied Ed.)
Formalities
All boats must check into a Port of Entry to Egypt .
Ports of Entry to Egypt are:
Alexandria, Port Said, Suez (Port Tewfik), Sharm El Sheikh, Taba Heights , Safaga, Qusier, AND Port Ghalib (A special streamlined process and lower costs apply here Ed.)
Advantages of entering Egypt through Port Ghalib marina
New regulations by the Authorities were recently adopted to reduce time consuming routine and formalities with the aim of encouraging foreign yachtsmen to visit Egypt. Port Ghalib International marina is so far the first and only private marina in Egypt to be classed and licensed as an official Port of Entry by the Egyptian Authorities operating under these new regulations. (and the fees payable are much cheaper than the fees payable in commercial ports such as Safaga, Hurghada Port (NOT the Marina) and Suez. Ed.)
All formalities (Entry visas, customs clearance, permits,etc), either for arrival or departure, can now be completed at Port Ghalib. You will pay a governmental fee covering all formalities costs only once at the Port of Entry upon arrival. The fee is US dollar 30 per yacht for yachts up to 18 meters LOA and US dollar 50 for longer yachts for each month or part of a month stay in Egypt. (In return you will be granted a "Sailing Permission" Ed.)
With the receipt issued by the marina management (and your Sailing permission Ed.)you can visit other marinas in Egypt without additional payments. Just do not lose your receipt! Because all formalities are completed at Port Ghalib Marina (i.e. in the same place) you do not have to pay an agent for checking into Egypt (consider the cost saving), this is of course unless you decide you really need one.
Of course, marina berth fees will also be payable. And if you DO stop at a commercial port on your way north, eg Safaga, you WILL have to appoint an Agent and pay all manner of fees, probably costing some $250 or more.
On your way north you may anchor in any of the many remote anchorages between Port Ghalib and Port Tewfik (Suez) without needing to check in with the Authorities. If the military are about and want to see your papers, the Cruising Permission, Receipt in Arabic and probably a pack of cigarettes will see you through. Ed.)
Documents required in Egypt:
1- Port Clearance from your last Port of Call
2 - Ships Registration Certificate
3 - VHF Radio License
4 - Insurance Certificate
5 - Crew List
6 - Passport for everyone on board
Documents required filling in on arrival:
1 - Passport control office declaration arrival.
2 - Ministry of transport Declaration of arrival.
3 - Notification for temporary clearance of yacht.
4 - Undertaking.
5 - Navigation equipment list.
All the above should be in date (valid) and original copy
Ship 's stamps are always good to have but not essential
All boats must have a reservation before coming to the marina and please contact the marina office on VHF Channel 16 or 10 before entering the marina. (I doubt that you would be turned away if you had no reservation but given the ease of communicating via email it is probably worth making one. Ed.)
Also we do need a valid insurance and be informed that boats are allowed to enter our marina after sunset.
Contact Port Ghalib International
Cap: Sherif Fawzy
Marina Manager
Postal Address
Port Ghalib International Marina
South Red Sea 75 Km El Qusier Marsa Alam Road.
4 Km South Marsa Alam International Air Port.
EGYPT – SOUTH RED SEA
N 25°32 '.001 - E 34°38 '.707
VHF CH 10 CH 16
Land Line +2 0065 3700 240
Fax +2 0065 3700 241
Mob +2 010 3434708 & +2 012 2128242
AGENCY CONTACTS in case you have to use them:
Suez / Port Said
Felix Maritime Agency
Suez felix@felix-eg.com
Prince of the Red Sea princeoftheredsea@gega.net Hurghada
Fantasia Shipping
Safaga / Hurghada fantasia60@hotmail.com
Ibramar Shipping Co. safaga@ibramar.com.eg
Port Suez
Submitted by: John A Whyte 2005
The relief of most yachts when they reach Port Suez is enormous! They have made it up the Red Sea and now only have the transit of the Suez Canal to make before the Mediterranean. Suez itself however is a place to get in and out of quickly.
APPROACH The approach to Suez is straightforward both day and night. The wind does accelerate in the narrows before Suez Bay and an adverse current can slow progress enormously. On the final approach the channel into the Canal area is well buoyed and lit. You can travel outside of the channel until the last three buoys before the land. If you arrive at night you are most likely to be instructed to anchor south of Green Island. This is on the port side of the entry channel.
On approach to the buoyed channel call your Agent on VHF. Prince of the Red Sea monitor 16 and 72 and Felix monitor 77. They will tell you what to do i.e anchor at Green Island at night or proceed to the Suez Yacht Club. The Suez Yacht Club is just in the canal on the port side. The channel to the Club is now marked with lit port and starboard buoys. On arrival you will be met by your Agent who will assist you to tie to the mooring buoys bow and stern. He will then take make all arrangements for your transit.
AGENTS There are two Agents dealing with the yachts transiting the Canal. They are Prince of the Red Sea and Felix. Felix are better at marketing and were recommended by both Abu Tig and Port Ghalib. There is not much between them but we used Felix and thought that Prince of the Red Sea were the more professional of the two. They operate a duopoly so costs are the same but you can get a discount if you get a quote very early on as you approach the Red Sea and confirm everything by fax.
ALIESHA used Prince of the Red Sea in 2008 and were very happy with the service-
SUEZ YACHT CLUB This is a misnomer! The building is shut and offers nothing except the mooring buoys and a shower and toilet facility at the rear of the building. There is a garden area which is where the Agent’s staff sit around. They charge the same as Abu Tig marina. $US 9 per night for up to 14m. There is a boat boy but he is mainly engaged in running the Agent’s staff about the moorings. You will need your dinghy to get ashore. The dinghy dock is right in front of the club. To get on/off from the dinghy dock you must show your passport to the Port Police located at the gate every time you go through both in and out.
FUEL, GAS & WATER The Agents will supply fuel in their own jerry jugs to your boat at $US 0.50 per litre. This is more expensive than Abu Tig or Ismailia. You can refuel at Ismailia but you will need to jerry jug the fuel from local petrol stations as there is no fuel dock. Prices are $US 0.10 per litre but you are not strictly allowed to bring it into the Yacht Club at Ismailia. You will need a taxi to get to the filling station and, in 2005, the drivers were demanding 40 Egyptian pounds for the trip as they said they were having to clean their car boots out after a run. The Port Police can stop you bringing fuel in but baksheesh smoothed the way. They preferred you to refuel at night when what you were doing was not so obvious. Gas bottles could be refilled by the Agents and water is available from a hose on the dinghy dock but a charge was made by the Club. It is better to wait for the free water at Ismailia.
PROVISIONS There are a few small grocery shops under the blocks of flats near the Yacht Club and a bakery on the first road to the left as you leave the club and which runs alongside the tug basin. Better provisions are available in Suez Town which also has a market. Suez Town is a microbus journey across the causeway (cost 50 piastras per person). For provisions the Metro in Ismailia is by far the easiest and best place to reprovision.
COMMUNICATIONS Buses from the Bus station to Cairo, Ismailia etc. Internet café on the Suez Town side of the causeway on the left just as you enter town.
EATING OUT The 6th floor restaurant at the Red Sea Hotel just outside the Yacht Club gate has a splendid view over the Canal and the yachts. The food is OK but there is no alcohol served. The best restaurants are in Suez Town. There are good fish restaurants and coffee houses.
PROCEDURES FOR THE CANAL TRANSIT When you arrive in Suez the Agent will arrange for the boat to be measured. The Suez Canal Authority have their own measurement system and the form of calculation is laid out in the Red Sea Pilot. Have a good look at this and work out what you think your measurement cost should be. If you do not agree with the figure of the SCA you can demand a remeasurement but this will delay you. The measurer often appears to be generous and will appear to measure in your favour. We are not convinced that this isn’t a ruse for a “gift”. Once this has been done you will be told by your Agent when you are scheduled to transit to Ismailia. It is mandatory for yachts to stop overnight at Ismailia.
FRUSTRATIONS The euphoria of arriving at Suez can quickly disappear as you become more and more frustrated at annoying items. This starts with the measuring where people think that “bigger” boats are paying less than they are. It then increases when boats that arrived later go through before others that are still waiting. Finally it is when a scheduled transit is cancelled at the last minute. In fairness to the Agents it is the SCA that calculate the measurement figure, it is the SCA that choose which boats and how many off a list will form the convoy for that day, and it is the SCA that will not notify of warship movements in advance for “security” reasons. However a swifter notification or response from the Agents would relieve some of the frustrations. The Agent’s staff and staff at the Yacht Club are constantly wanting cigarettes, T shirts etc. As a result of all this most yachts are very relieved to see the back of Suez.
Port Said to Endeavour Harbour
Port Said We moored in the Arsenal basin beyond the SCA building with it 's conspicuous green dome. Mooring is bows/stern to using your own ground tackle. Call the Felix yacht agency on VHF channel 12 as you approach the harbour and await instructions. Reasonable showers and toilets ashore, water and electricity. Souk street nearby has some excellent fruit and vegetables and dubious looking butchers. Numerous banks and money changers and internet cafes. Excellent supermarket stocking all the goodies purchased in Cyprus but at a fraction of the cost. Tourist police were very visible and we had an armed escort for a shopping trip one day. Felix will arrange visas, fuel, gas and canal transit.
We had a very pleasant trip pilot for the first leg to Ismalia though some yachts in the first convoy had troubles with the pilot insisting they maintain 7kts in thick fog. The first convoy was also refused permission to stop in Ismalia and had to proceed to Port Suez in one day.
Ismallia Halfway house in the middle of the canal. Mooring is bows/stern to with tailed lines to buoys. Excellent yachtclub and facilities, water and electricity. Fuel at 40 USc / litre by jerry can. Charming town, apparently the mango capital of Egypt in the autumn but we struggled to find a single mango! Excellent provisioning and good market the other side of the railway line in which the flies and some of the sights are indescribable! Internet cafes and excellent supermarkets.
Port Suez Second pilot arrived 5 hours late so we completed the last part of the canal in the dark with a strong foul tide. Port Tewfiq yacht club very secure with mooring to buoys fore and aft, very helpful staff who will help you moor up and take your pilot ashore. Some moorings bow/stern to or alongside the jetty with water and power. For any requirements ask for KarKar. Staff will organise gas and laundry and will row out to you with fresh fruit, veg, bread, eggs etc. Prices varied wildly from boat to boat and often gas cylinders were not filled completely. Shared taxi into Port Suez 50 piastres one way. Good internet cafe near the Barclays bank. Alcohol available at the St George bar. Good fruit and veg market and fragrant fish market. Supermarket in the Royal Mall has most goodies.
Ras Matarma 29o26.0N 32o45.6E Good shelter from the swell but not necessarilly from the wind. Good holding on sand. Hotel complex ashore, we were not allowed to land.
Ras Abu Zenima 29o02.63N 33o06.8E Reasonable shelter from Northerlies which blow the oily soot and ash from the onshore factory all over the boat staining the gelcoat. Not Recommended.
Sheratib Shoals 28o38.0N 33o11.36E Limited shelter from the swell but exposed to the wind. Tuck yourself in at the southern end of Shab El Hasa. Good holding in sand. Numerous rig supply craft and fishing boats at anchor.
Sheik Riyah Harbour 28o08.7N 33o39.4E Delightful sheltered ancorage with fringing reef. Good holding in sand but some patches of weed which need to be avoided. Posts marking the shoal water in the approaches, we found less depths that charted.
Endeavour Harbour 27o33.75N 33o47.71E Excellent all round shelter. Good holding in sand. Fishing boats supply fresh fish. Good walks ashore. Beautiful beach on south of the island.
Suez Canal
PASSAGE REPORT Passage from – Port Suez To:- Port Said
Departure Place Name: Port Suez Latitude and Longitude: - 29°57’N 32°34’E Arrival Place Name: Port Said Latitude and Longitude: N31°15’ E32°18’
Date of Information: May 2008 Submitted By: John A Whyte
The transit of the Suez Canal is nowhere near as exciting as the Panama Canal. There are no locks and the high mounds of sand on each side of the Canal (defensive creations) make it monotonous with little to see. It is more interesting on the Ismailia to Port Said leg.
DELAYS Once you have been measured in Suez you will be notified by your Agent when you will transit the Canal. Do not think that that is sacrosanct because it is not. A transit can be cancelled for a variety of reasons and a delay to your transit is more likely than not.
The Suez Canal Authority decide which yachts go through on a particular day if there are more that wish to transit that day than they wish to take. A transit will be cancelled if SCA consider that strong winds (especially in the two lakes) and adverse currents will make the transit time too long. Friday is the weekend in Egypt and there will be a shortage of pilots. There may be no convoy or a small one. More likely no convoy. You will either transit in a convoy with a pilot on board or behind a pilot boat but with no pilot on your vessel. The maximum size of convoy is likely to be 8 boats.
If a sand storm blows up or if winds increase suddenly from the north you may have to return. The most frustrating delay is caused by an American warship. The American warships arrive at either end of the canal unannounced for security reasons and there is an arrangement between the Egyptian and American Governments that allows the warship to go through the Canal in a convoy but all small boat traffic is halted from 0100 for 24 hours irrespective of when the warship transit takes place.
Again for security reasons although the SCA may know the pilots or agents are not told until an hour before your scheduled transit so you will be hanging around wondering where your pilot is but not knowing why you are delayed until some time later. Very bad for your temper! The arrangement only concerned American warships not other nationalities until the beginning of 2005 but now is in place for all warships. This is causing major problems.
THE PILOTS
The pilots that accompany you on the transit are SCA employees who are instructed to do this work on yachts in addition to their normal duties. They are not pilots at all but staff that work on tugs etc. Some are competent and knowledgeable but many are not. This is work that most of them do not want to do and they are not paid well for it. They are normally brought in on a day off to do it. If you get a good pilot the whole experience can be very positive but if you get a bad one it can be most unpleasant.
Pilots will want you to motor at full speed but you must insist to travel at the speed that you are comfortable with and not at the speed that the pilot wants – it will never be enough. The baksheesh issue with the pilots is the major issue for everybody. A number of the pilots will not ask for baksheesh and not expect it but others will ask for it at the end of your transit. The worst ones are those that talk about it all the way. This all makes for a bad experience and frayed nerves. You breathe a sigh of relief if you get a good pilot. How much for baksheesh? It is up to you but $US10 and a couple of packets of cigarettes for the pilot is being generous.
The pilot will often want to steer the boat. You may not want to allow this and you can refuse. Many pilots are not competent to steer. Never leave one on the wheel or tiller in the cockpit alone unsupervised. You are the skipper and responsible for the vessel at all times. You will be expected to supply the pilot with drinks and food during the transit. The pilot must remain in radio contact at all times so a handheld radio is useful if you do not have a cockpit fixed VHF and do not want the pilot to keep going below. They use the radio for communication constantly.
We had pilots on board for both legs of the transit. They were absolutely charming, good company, totally competent and never once asked for anything. Our experience was totally positive. We did give a tip and cigarettes to both our pilots when they left.
ISMAILIA Ismailia is a much more pleasant stop over than Suez. The Red Sea Pilot does not really make this clear and most yachts in the past have done the canal transit as quickly as possible with just an overnight in Ismailia. The Yacht Club berthing has now been extended and now will accommodate 24 yachts on Med. moor to buoys and the wall. The cost for up to 14m is $US9 per night and it includes free electricity and water. There is a water connection serving 8 boats and individual electricity supplies to each berth. Even at the busiest times you should find berthing space here. They will not accept bookings in advance due to the vagaries of SCA transits.
There is small cafeteria at the Yacht Club which will also do pizzas. There is a shower/ toilet facility and a laundry room. The staff at the Club are friendly and it is a shame that the main restaurant and bar areas are no longer used.
The manager at the marina arranges your transit onwards. See him about midday on the day before you wish to leave. The pilots get on and off the boats at the marina. This is a much better stop for a visit to Cairo than Suez. In 2005 a large proportion of this year’s fleet stayed a few days in Ismailia and had kept their land cruising of Cairo to be done from here rather than Abu Tig or Port Ghalib.
There is an excellent supermarket in the centre of town called Metro. Provisioning here is much cheaper than the Mediterranean. Metro will deliver to the Yacht Club for a 3 Egyptian pound fee. There is a market with good fresh produce although the produce at Metro was the best we have seen in Egypt. The town itself is very pleasant with the old French villas still maintained and used in a park like setting.
The centre of town is around the large mosque which is visible from the Yacht Club and there you will find a couple of internet cafes, banks, ATMs, shops etc. There are restaurants in town and George’s almost next to Metro is worth a visit to the bar and restaurant. It is a relic from the Edwardian era..
PORT SAID Our convoy from Ismailia did not leave first thing in the morning for Port Said as usual because of a warship. Instead we left at 1230. With an adverse current and 20 knot head winds we did not arrive in Port Said until 2030. The distance is 43 nM. Arriving at that time made it a bad schedule for arrival in either Cyprus or Israel so we wanted to anchor up. Our pilot made it quite clear that no anchoring is now permitted in Port Said harbour and yachts can only tie up at the yacht club. We moored up Med.moor using our bow anchor with lines back to the pontoons from the wall. There can be swell and so we were at least 3m off.
Our pilot was taken off here by an SCA boat and our pilot paid the club officials (who had taken our lines as we came in and secured them) the $US9 fee for the night. We informed them and the police ashore that we had checked out of Egypt and would not be going ashore. In the morning the club officials untied our lines for us and we motored out without a need for a pilot or clearing in /out of Port Said.
The crew on the SCA boat were a nuisance when we arrived demanding packets of cigarettes. Other than take our pilot off (which is their job anyway) they did nothing to assist us. We threw them a packet of 20 cigarettes to try and get rid of them but they still moaned! Interestingly our pilot who was an older man a senior tug boat captain and very pleasant did not intervene.
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