By Neil Langford - 22 Mar 2015
Hostilities in the civil war finished here more than six years ago, and Sri Lanka is now open for cruising visitors. The traditional cruisers port of entry was Galle in the south of the island, which by all reports is actually less than ideal as a cruising destination.
This year the port of Trincomalee has been opened up to cruisers, and it is a breath of fresh air. The local population had not seen a cruising boat for 26 years until our friend Larry Mimms solo sailed his yacht Blue Star into here in 2014. Blue Star was actually built in Trincomalee, being hull #01 from a production facility that eventually failed due to the civil war. Larry is a genuine trail blazer, and negotiated / cajoled with local officials to allow him to sail into port here.
Result - this year more than a dozen boats have visited, and the local administration is doing its best to offer a warm welcome. After a 26 year insurgency, during which Trincomalee was often isolated, these folks are still on a defensive footing. However tourism is growing, the economy is improving and the locals are keen to support change. Do contact your agent via email several days before arrival to announce your intentions. Also make sure that all crew on board have Sri Lanka visas issued by the online site.
From a sailors perspective this is one of the best harbours in the world. Deep and extremely well protected, with numerous individual deep water bays it reminds us of Sydney Harbour - without the development. The approach is easy, running eastwards through deep water into Trincomalle Bay then turning to starboard (north) past Elephant Island and entering Trincomalee Harbour. The (very large) naval base is immediately to starboard, followed by Town Bay, where cruising boats should request to anchor. Call port control (VHF Ch16) on approach in the bay, and request permission to enter the harbour, nominating your preferred anchorage as Town Bay.
Once anchored the Navy will come alongside and inspect the vessel, all very courteous, but with large black boots on. Never mind ... the water is clear, temperate and you can run your water maker in the harbour.
After the Navy your agent will arrange clearance with customs, immigration etc. Within a few ours (at worst overnight) you should be ashore with the run of the city. Agent details and various other useful contacts are included in the cruising directory attached (it is Version #1, so please let us know of any errors or additions please).
The traditional cruising season here is January & February, as boats depart Malaysia and Thailand and head west. In that period the days here are cooled by an afternoon and evening sea breeze, with a night time land breeze alternating each evening. It is very pleasant, with few insects or disturbances.
Fruits, vegetables, meats and fish are all available in good quality from the local market or the western style super market. Diesel fuel is under 80c US a liter and even the local beer (Lion) is good. This is quite a place.
Neil & Ley Langford
SV Crystal Blues
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