By George.Curtis2 - 31 Aug 2015
Flying Fish Articles
Members Websites,
20 Anchorages in NW Madagascar - Mile Bickell 's Grandpa 's Maps
Locations Covered in the above web site:
Baie Ampamonty – 12°44.84'S, 48°40.15'E
Baly Bay – 16°00.38'N, 45°21.12'E
Nosy Sakatia – 13°18.36'S, 48°10.39'E
Hellville – 13°24.45'S, 48°17.40'E
Mahajanga – 15°43.78'S, 46°18.34'E
Nosy Mitsio – 12°54.50'S, 48°34.55'E
Crater Bay – 13°23.93'S, 48°13.01'E
Nosy Mamoko – 13°43.08'S, 48°10.71'E
Russian Bay – 13°32.03'S, 47°59.87'E
River Baramahamay – 13°42.75'S, 47°54.15'E
Analalava – 14°37.74'S, 47°44.75'E
Moramba Bay – 15°18.24'S, 47°05.12'E
Nosy Lava – 12°44.84'S, 48°40.15'E
Nosy Komba – 13°26.60'S, 48°21.10'E
1) Information Submitted by John and Jean Armitage Ostrica of Orwell
2) Date August and September 2006
3) Harbour or Area Covered N.W.Madagascar within approx 50 miles of Nosy Be island 20 deg S 15 deg E
4) Suitability and Attraction for Yachts Good cruising area. Good stop over for boats going up or down the Mozambique Channel to or from South Africa, Mozambique, Tanzania, Mayotte, Seychelles, and Chagos.(see 19 below)
5) Marinas, Berthing or Anchorage No marinas Many protected anchorages, a few reported good enough for cyclones.
6) Entry Ports Hell-ville, Nosy Be, as detailed below ( also at Majunga, N.west coast at 15deg 43s; 46deg 18e)
7) Formal Requirements for Yachts Entering/Departing:
a) from/to same country Not known
b) from/to abroad Presented last port clearance and Passports, 4 crew lists needed on arrival and departure
c) visa requirements Visa granted to most on arrival Check beforehand. We obtained 3 month visa at consulate in Seychelles.
8) Location/Existence of:
a) harbour master On quay at Hell-ville
b) customs/immigration On quay and in town
c) health authorities Representative for paperwork at immigration
d) police Marine police near quay
9) Control of Foreign Yachts Procedure for entry and departure considered normal. No-one left the comfort of their office. A little protracted, allow half a day. Rumours that there are some patrols and lack of a cruising permit has been costly. We heard of no such sightings
10) Attitude of Officials to Visiting Yachtsmen We were unable to discover what if any are the correct legal charges . By being as positive as we thought reasonable we eventually paid a total of about US12 for immigration and health entry (NB had visas), and US20 per month for cruising permit. No charges for outward clearance. Each official taking money issued receipts and the procedure was uncomplicated. Payment in local currency requires visit to bank before formalities are completed.
11) Repair/Hauling Facilities Some skills and assistance available in Crater Bay. One boat had cracked engine head, parts sent in from Australia, then fitted successfully by local mechanic from Hell-ville.
12) Sailing Directions or Charts BA 706, 3872,3873, C-Map varied in accuracy, up to 0.6miles out. With clear visibility to twenty miles, and currents to 1.5 knots max.,traditional navigation is straightforward.
13) Cruising Guide and where Obtainable. Include Phone and/or E-Mail McPhun “East African Pilot” Imray
14) Port Radio Services Could try Ch16, but unlikely to answer unless speaking Malagassy or French
15) Weather Forecasts None local. SSB for Ham stations and Grib files by Sailmail/Winlink S. Africa Weatherfax . Peri Peri Ham operator twice a day very good, on FQs 8101 at 0500, 1500 UTC, 12353 at 0530 and 1530UTC approx.,
16) Yacht Club(S) None
17) Other Facilities: drinking water Not potable in Hell-ville. Good water at Waterfall in Forest Park Reserve (no people) over beach from anchor at 13deg 26.9222s and 048deg 20.168e From taps in village on Nosy Komba reported potable..
fuel Recommend buy from gas station pumps, pay extra, good clean fuel. Duty free and black market fuel cheaper but reports of dirt and water content. For large volumes can arrange bunkering at Crater Bay, prepay in town and make arrangements. No personal knowledge.
gas (propane)/gaz Possible in Hell-ville. Probably need own adapter, or invest in local bottle and regulator, all from gas stations.
chandlers Hardware stores. Yamaha have high street store but restricted stock.
bank Three banks. Visa only works ATM in two of them. Mastercard by arrangement with Bank of Africa, but procedure takes half a day. 5 Malagassy francs recently replaced by 1 ariary. 2500 ariary to $US1. Many people can only work in old francs, the division by 5 being avoided. All notes are ariary, coins are worthless, caution with prices, especially in the market where they only quote in francs.
shops/market Well stocked shops, but you have to spend time trawling. Shampions supermarket good choice, many imported products, (butcher and deli section open mornings only). Large covered town market for fruit, veg, fish meat, mud-crabs, prawns in season, spices, etc.
restaurants/hotels Nandipo restaurant and bar (street opposite town hall) is a good meeting place for ex-pats who know where to find everything. Good lunch food. Oasis, main street, bakery and coffee, lunch etc, meet everyone passing to/ from harbour.
post office/telephones including mobile facilities P.O. in Hell-ville. Mobile tel. works within sight of Hell-ville only. Main post Office, main street, mail to UK in about 7 days. Mobile phones have arrived, so pick from three providers. Caution, service only within ‘sight’ of Hell-ville
internet cafes One in mall type building opposite side of road to Town market. T
best mailing address Not known, probably best to avoid. DHL have an office so suggest package to there, but reported expensive.
showers None. Try waterfalls.
laundry See showers. Can join local ladies at work, particularly at Nosy Komba
transport/air services Air links daily to Antananarivo with international connections. Caution that local flight may not happen so overnight in city may be needed. Understand flights from Paris and Milan come once or twice a week, but heavily booked. Otherwise Air France dominates. No direct flights to S.Africa. Ferries regulalrly cross to mainland where understand car hire is possible. Road to Diego Suarez is reported to be metalled and good all the way.
medical facilities/hospital There is a Health Clinic on the road to Crater Bay from town with good reports. Local Hospital has mixed reports. Seek local ex-pat advice
18) Recommendations or Warnings First impressions are probably misleading. Boat-boys are no more a nuisance than in the Caribbean but pick your boy, pre-agree the fee for guarding and moving your dinghy as necessary, smile and be firm. As for most countries these days, do not leave anything unguarded or unlocked. You quickly see why outboards are prized. Ours stayed in the locker., rowing is good exercise! We found local people to be very calm, quiet, helpful and generous. Caution with malaria prevention, we used clothing, creams and coils, and no pills.
19) Other Information – please include here general impressions, opinions, comments or any other matter which might be of use to those visiting. The cruising is delightful. Seas rarely build above half a metre, the overnight land breeze dominated until about 10.00 giving way by mid-day to 15 knots of sea breeze. This pattern persisted while we were there. Stronger prevailing winds dominate to the north and south of the area covered here. Overnight the anchorages were flat, with only slight rolly conditions at change of HW and LW. Details of some 20 fine anchorages on and around this area are accurately documented by McPhun. We enjoyed them all including seeing lemurs, eagles, dolphins, whales, and catching good sized fish. We recommend a lazy Sunday buffet lunch (noon till 1600) at Passions Restaurant, Sakatia Is. Inclusive of local band. Also on Sakatia, John Sheppard is completing his house where he takes visitors and welcomes yachts.. He is a sailor from S.Africa, now completing a yachtsmans bar (take him your Y.C.burgee). We left our boat anchored here, crossed to N.Be, took taxi to Hell-ville for restocking. This saved the bash to- and-from in the yacht and avoids all the hassle and security issues. John proved invaluable in providing information, making recommendations, sorting problems, finding solutions and has the necessary contacts. When available he offered well water His anchorage is at 13deg 18.15s 48deg 10.65e We hope he is now our OCC Port Officer. Check P.O.List for more accurate details.
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