By George.Curtis2 - 24 Mar 2016
Flying Fish Articles
Hondarribia – 43°23.00'N, 01°47.00'W
San Sebastion – 43°20.00'N, 02°00.00'W
Santander – 43°29.00'N, 03°46.00'W
Gijon – 43°33.00'N, 05°40.00'W
Ribadeo – 43°33.00'N, 07°02.00'W
Viveiro – 43°43.00'N, 07°36.00'W
Cedeira – 43°40.00'N, 08°05.00'W
Corunna, La Coruña, A Coruna – 43°23.10'N, 08°24.30'W
Lage or Laxe – 43°13.50'N, 08°59.13'W
Camarinas – 43°07.50'N, 09°10.90'W
Puebla del Caramiñal (Ria d 'Arosa) – 42°30.00'N, 09°00.00'W
Islas Atlanticas de Galicia – 42°13.00'N, 08°54.00'W
Islas Cies – 42°13.00'N, 08°54.00'W
Isla Ons – 42°22.00'N, 08°56.00'W
Isla Salvora – 42°28.00'N, 09°00.00'W
Isla Cortegada – 42°37.00'N, 08°47.00'W
Isla Salvora – 42°28.00'N, 09°00.00'W
Galician Atlantic Islands – 42°13.00'N, 08°54.00'W
Seville – 37°18.84'N, 06°00.94'W
Cadiz – 36°32.42'N, 06°17.03'W
El Puerto de Santa Maria – 36°35.36'N, 06°13.78'W
La Linea – 36°09.31'N, 05°22.03'W
Hondarribia – 43°23.00'N, 01°47.00'W
Hodarribia is the first (or last, depending on your passage plan) port in Spain and is just across the border and the Rio Bidasoa from Hendaye in France.
Whilst there, comfortably berthed in a very modern and secure marina, we took the opportunity to hire a car and visit Rioja via San Sebastion and Pamplona where the bulls were running. This, plus a night spent in a bodega drinking their best rioja, was in many ways the highlight of our time in Spain before we hoisted the Tri-Colour (still with the Basque flag below it) aand headed for France.
The RCC Pilot talks about 1m of water in the entrance but we found 6m at half tide so a reduction to 1m seems unlikely. In the time we were there we saw no sign of any breakers in the entrance despite some pretty fierce onshore winds and it seemed pretty safe to us at all times.
This corner of the Bay of Biscay receives a bad press in UK, but from the numbers of local boats in the Hondarribia and Hendaye marinas clearly the locals know something we don 't. It probably is difficult in westerly gales and I imagine that the swells can be horrendous but, apart from our entry into Cap Breton we had no difficulty and thoroughly enjoyed the Basque country.
San Sebastion – 43°20.00'N, 02°00.00'W
The RCC Pilot says "a lively holiday resort with few concessions to visiting yachtsmen" and how true this is!
We sought shelter in San Sebastion when the wind reached 30 knots from the east on our easterly passage and were turned away. The one, small pontoon for visitors in the marina was already busy and being very exposed, quite reasonably none of the occupants wanted 8 tonnes of Hallberg-Rassy berthed outboard of them. The moorings in the bay were terribly exposed and yachts secured to them were having a rough time of it, so back to sea and passage to Hondarribia, from where we visited San Sebastion by road.
The Pilot says that the yacht club is one of the most welcoming on the coast and I have heard from friends that this is true. Getting there by boat is difficult however , because of the total inadequacy of berthing arrangements. With about 8 berths for visitors in the marina one has to get in early to get one and the French, from just across the border, clearly know this. The city itself offers a great deal and rivals Biaritz for up market chic (or whatever the Spanish equivalent is).
Santander – 43°29.00'N, 03°46.00'W
As the RCC Pilot says, Santander is an obvious stopover for a crew change, with its excellent communications to UK. It is also a lively and cosmopolitan city with all the amenities that one might expect.
There are a number of mooring options. We tried most of them in 2008! Just east of Horadada Light, although not shown on the chart or mentioned in the Pilot, is a useful and well sheltered anchorage apparently well used by local boats. We were perfectly snug there for a night.
The Darsena de Molnedo with its yacht club was full with local boats and did not seem to have any visitors berths but there were visitors bouys off the yacht club with a club launch to get ashore. The yacht club, however, was anything but welcoming and had few of the facilities required by a cruising yachtsman such as a laundrette. To be fair, there was a major regatta on and this probably accounted for the "no" we received to almost all out queries! It may be better when the club is quieter and it is certainly a convenient berth for the city.
The Marina del Cantabrico does not boast a laundrette either - perhaps UK boats visiting Santander for crew changes are expected to send their dirty washing home with departing crews! It is also miles from anywhere and almost impossible to get into town from. The nearest shop for re-provisioning is the far side of the airport, only accesible by bike or taxi. The marina is also very expensive at 40 euros a night in 2008.
Gijon – 43°33.00'N, 05°40.00'W
Gijon is a seriously good run ashore! As the RCC Pilot says, access can be dangerous in a heavy onshore swell and should be avoided, but in reasonable approach conditions the shelter once inside is perfect and the marina is most welcoming with all the required facilities.
Gijon city is very lively and cosmopolitan with plenty of good bars and restaurants and a feel about it that is totally different to the ports further west in both Asturias and Galicia. Highly recommended.
Ribadeo – 43°33.00'N, 07°02.00'W
The RCC Pilot shows 2 anchorages at Ribadeo, one south of the Darsena de Mirasol and one off the shipyard east of Banco Berlinga. We found neither of these offered enough swinging room or depth for an 11m yacht with a 1.9m draft.
Ribadeo itself is a fairly dead town with an emphasis on industry and cannot really be recommended for a visit other than as a convenient overnight stop in the marina.
Viveiro – 43°43.00'N, 07°36.00'W
Viveiro is a very attractive old town with a small and undeveloped marina and a some perfectly comfortable anchorages, of which we tried two. The first, on the east of the bay in Ensada Concha, was a little too exposed but the second, off Playa del Covas close to the town was ideal. A dinghy trip up the river to the town itself showed that we had mad a sensible choice given the (2008) state of the marina but the town itself was most attractive and the approach relatively uncomplicated and sheltered except from the north.
Cedeira – 43°40.00'N, 08°05.00'W
A fishing port with no facilities for yachtsmen, but a very useful anchorage, well sheltered from the west and thus a useful overnight stop on passage from La Corunna around the corner onto the north coast of Spain.
Corunna, La Coruña, A Coruna – 43°23.10'N, 08°24.30'W
Date Submitted: 2007 Submitted by: MarkHolbrook. Comment: A major port of entry, the new marina is most frequently used by visiting yachts Darsena Deportiva de La Coruna 43° 22.0 N, 008° 23.9 W (http://www.darsenacoruna.com) Enter by Canal West, Lit transit from Punta de Mera. Past the buoyed end of the Barrie de la Maza breakwater – there is a port hand buoy 3 cables to the south west of the breakwater end marking the deep channel, not of relevance to yachts but stay at least ½ cable off the breakwater end. At the land-end of the breakwater there is a large tower for port control and you may be called by the port captain.
The next landmark is the castle, the old marina is to the north of the castle, this is not the Darsena Deportiva where most visiting boats berth and some of the pontoons in the old marina are in a poor state of repair. Darsena Deportiva is 3 cables to the North West of the castle. Pass between the Port and Starboard hand beacons on the wall and tie up at the first available berth. A large customs cutter frequently berths on the marina side of the harbour wall adjacent to the entrance. The marina staff do not appear to respond to VHF.
If staying any length of time be aware that a strong swell and heavy wash from fishing vessels can work into the marina to the berths where visiting yachts are usually berthed. If staying asking for a berth within the inner harbour would be advisable. There is a discount voucher system operating for all the Deportiva marinas, the discount of 15% is only applicable if a card is purchased at the first Deportiva marina and for subsequent visits. It may be worth considering checking out again for one night if leaving the boat for some time.
Things to see: The Tower of Hercules, the working Roman lighthouse, is spectacular inside and out. Maria Pita statue in the main square, local heroine who apparently single-handedly prevented the sacking of the city by Drake (she didn’t but Drake only spent about a week in A Coruna). Sir John Moore is another local hero following the Scot’s very successful management of the retreat of forces against Napoleon. Moore was killed and the poem ‘Not a drum was heard, not a funeral note’ penned. Moore’s tomb is on the ramparts of the town and much respected by the population of A Coruna. Pictures:
[attachment=362]coruna.jpg[/attachment]
Visitors berths taken from East wall
Lage or Laxe – 43°13.50'N, 08°59.13'W
Date:2007 Submitted by: MarkHolbrook. Comment: A minor port and anchorage No officials. Tying up to the walls is not recommended as a dispute concerning fishing vessel berthing has lead to some yachts finding their lines cast-off during the night. Excellent anchorage. Laxe is where much of the oil from the ‘Prestige’ disaster came ashore but an army of volunteers have returned the beaches to their pristine state. Picture: Laxe anchorage off the end of the wall, taken from the South
Camarinas – 43°07.50'N, 09°10.90'W
Date: 2007 Follow leading line 108° T from Pta de Lago until the pier end bears north. The anchorage used to be recommended but the ground is foul and the holding poor and it is difficult to anchor out of the routes to the fish auction.
There is now a new welcoming marina, berthing is alongside pontoons but the pontoons are very short so prepare lines accordingly. Excellent cliff-top walks to Cabo Villano.
Puebla del Caramiñal (Ria d 'Arosa) – 42°30.00'N, 09°00.00'W
Puebla del Caramiñal (Ria d 'Arosa), Islas Cies, Bayona-short notes 42º30 'N 09º00 'W B020-1 Contributed by John Malling, 1999 Puebla del Caramiñal (Ria d’Arosa) : Small marina with long pontoon where you can moor bow or stern to. It is also possible to anchor off S.W. end of pontoon in good sand but some weed. At present water and electricity are available on the pontoon but there are no other facilities. A building on the quay is being converted to provide a marina office together with showers etc. This should be ready by late this year, 1999. In another part of the harbour there is a travel lift (hoist) and plenty hard standing if a boat needs to be lifted out. It is used for yachts and smaller fishing boats. A pleasant small town with many cafes, bars etc. There is an excellent street market every Wednesday. Islas Cies : Good anchorages in sand, but beware of kelp. There are two bar/restaurants providing basic meals for day trippers and campers, also a small supermarket. Bayona : The two pontoons which were attached to the main outer harbour wall have been removed and the space between this wall and the Yacht Club marina appears to be all club moorings. Anchoring is possible but it is quite a way out as the Yacht Club seems to have extended its space. No additional information re yacht club facilities; all are excellent (charge for 40ft yacht £10 per day ‘99)
Islas Atlanticas de Galicia – 42°13.00'N, 08°54.00'W
Islas Cies – 42°13.00'N, 08°54.00'W
Isla Ons – 42°22.00'N, 08°56.00'W
Isla Salvora – 42°28.00'N, 09°00.00'W
Isla Cortegada – 42°37.00'N, 08°47.00'W
Isla Salvora – 42°28.00'N, 09°00.00'W
2010 Report
In fact the national park consists of four groups of islands. The best known and most visited are Islas Cies and Isla de Ons. These both have very frequent ferry services from the main land, and are extremely popular day tourist destinations on account of their superb beaches. As a result, policing of yachts is infrequent, if at all, but nevertheless the basic year long permission should be obtained well in advance, and if possible the day visit permission. Any marina on the Atlantic coast of Galicia will willingly obtain this day visit permission by automatic reply e-mail in just a few minutes, and at no cost, if you present them with the year long document. This year long authorisation is best obtained by fax from home before you begin your cruise, although a marina will get it for you in a few days. They require you to fax captain 's passport, ships papers, and International Helmsman 's Certificate (or anything similar) . Fax is their prefered method of communication for this document.
The National Park 's Office is at Bouzas, west of Vigo and is just a few minutes walk from Astilleros Lagos Boatyard (Our OCC P.O. Alfredo Lagos). Although the charming helpful staff do not speak English, they will be able to issue documents on the spot. Other islands in the National Park are Isla Salvora and Isla Cortegada. Access to these two islands is strictly controlled with wardens meeting each boat on arrival. Landing will NOT be permitted without full documentation.
Of all the islands, Isla Salvora is the most unspoilt, interesting and attractive, especially in June when the young gulls are hatching. For the botanist, the richest island is Isla Ons which also has good beaches. For history visit Isla Cortegarda. For magnificent beaches go to Islas Cies. All the islands have good anchorages and, in the case of Isla Ons, secure visitor 's moorings and a small village.
Pre 2009 Report (This procedure may well have changed)
Visiting the Atlantic Islands National Park of Galicia
Yachts sailing the Atlantic coast of Spain will not want to miss a visit to the beautiful islands south of Cape Finisterre, most of which are included in the Galician Atlantic Islands National Park
These include Isla Salvora, Isla Cortegada, Islas Ons and Islas Cies, and some surrounding rocks with beaches.
To sail in the waters surrounding these islands requires registration of your boat with the authorities and then further permission to anchor and go ashore each time.
In theory this can be arranged by the yacht owner by downloading the registration form from the website www.iatlanticas.es and sending it to the National Parks office with required documentation, well in advance of departure from home. In practise this does not happen, and I have reports from OCC and ICC members who have tried and failed despite phone calls, faxes and e-mails, as well as even visiting the National Parks office in person.
The successful way to get your registration, is by asking for assistance from one of the marina offices that you plan on visiting, in Galicia, long before you reach the area.
EG coming from north, a good marina would be Club Nautico Portosin www.cnportosin.com
Coming from south, Monte Real Club de Yates at Baiona. www.mrcyb.es
Both of these yacht clubs have good English speaking staff who will help you.
Contact yacht club well in advance and ask them to help you obtain registration of your yacht.
Send them the following documentation, by fax, or you can mail photocopies:
1.Ships registration document, showing all details.
2.Owners passport.
3.Owners sailing certificate (eg Yachtmaster, Intl Skippers Certificate or anything similar).
The marina office will fax these to the Parks office, and the registration certificate will be issued in about one or two weeks or perhaps longer out of season.
This certificate will contain a number, unique to you, that along with your passport number will be your password and allow access to next stage.
Note that the Registration certificate will be sent to the marina office,who will hold it for you.
Every two years, the renewal will automatically be sent to the same marina office, and without any separate notification to you. The Parks office will not enter into any correspondence on the matter.
There is no fee, and also the marina offices do not charge for the service.
Now you have permission to sail in the waters around the islands.
To get permission to anchor or land, requires further permission, but this is very easily obtainable at the time of your visit, automatically from the National Parks website www.iatlanticas.es .
Any marina office will happily and quickly do this for you, and print it out,without any charge.
Simply hand in your National Parks registration certificate, password, number of persons, date, and name of intended island(s) to visit.
Seville – 37°18.84'N, 06°00.94'W
2011 Report
There is a new lock on the way up to Seville and it is very unfriendly to yachts. The new arrangement is that there is only a lock keeper on duty when a freighter is passing through so if you call outside these pre-arranged appointments all you will get is a security guard. By far the best thing to do is to contact the Club Nautico and get them to sort out access for you. Failing this try and call the pilots - in any event the pilot has to agree to you sharing the lock with the ship he is looking after. After the lock you have to negotiate the bridge which, at the time of my visit in November, only opened at 22:00 and only then if the operator saw you hovering and waiting to go through. All in all it is perhaps best to follow the river instead to Puerto Gelves where there is a very frequent and cheap bus service to Seville from their very friendly marina. The marina is badly silted up though so HW entry is advisable and it is just up stream from a power line charted at 16.5m clearance.
[attachment=361]Seville.jpg[/attachment]
New Lock Gate at Seville - the yacht shown gave up
Cadiz – 36°32.42'N, 06°17.03'W
Puerto Atlantico now has a (cold wash) launderette in the main shower block. Helpful staff but out on a limb with few facilities close by and not very attractive surroundings. My bet would be to go to El Puerto de Santa Maria and catch the ferry across.
El Puerto de Santa Maria – 36°35.36'N, 06°13.78'W
Still a good place to moor although the recession has probably hit it a bit so it is not quite as smart as it was once.
But the staff are very helpful and it is cheaper than Cadiz in the high season ( and more expensive during the low season Eur25 for 11.80m). Free internet access in the entrance hall and WiFi at berths. Wash from fishing boats and ferries mean that rubber or spring snubbers earn their keep.
This is a good place for a trip inland to Jerez - 10 min on train (though a fair walk to the station). A trip to see a performance at the Real Escuela Andaluza del arte Ecuestre is really worth the effort (mid-day Tues & Thurs plus Fridays in August), even if you 're not really interested in horses. You can book online at www.realescuela.org but you need to be able to print the receipt.
La Linea – 36°09.31'N, 05°22.03'W
La Linea is the closest anchorage to Gibraltar and a viable alternative to the marinas there. Note, though, that there have been a number of reports of the theft of dinghys there.
ALCAIDESA MARINA, La Linea, SPAIN
The newly-constructed marina in La Linea is now (January 2011) opoen for business although work is continuing on some shore facilities. At the London Boat Show I was assured all would be ready for the spring of this year.
Berthing rates appear competitive. For example, the cost per night for a yacht of 10-12m length overall is Euros 8.00 in low season and Euros 14.00 in high season. Elecricity adn water are extra. For details see www.puertodeportivoalcaidesa.es
One consequence is that the Authorities will no longer allow yachts to anchor in the shelter of La Linea breakwater. As anchoring is also banned in Gibraltese waters cruisers now have no alternative to taking a berth in a marina.
There is an excellent fish, meat, fruit and veg market in the centre of the town, open most days of the week
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