By simoncurrin - 7 Jan 2019
In order to remember the lessons we have learned in recent years I would like to write a ‘best practice’ article on preparing a boat to overwinter (unattended) in very cold climates. It would be great to use this thread to collate the experiences of others.
Simon
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By PhilipH2 - 7 Jan 2019
I know it is more work, but how about three lay-up themes, say for up to 6 months: Very Cold Climate, Temperate Climate and Tropical Climate - that would be very useful for a very wide range of members. I would be glad to help. Cheers
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By simoncurrin - 8 Jan 2019
Phil
Thank you. I will do ‘Very Cold’ and would really appreciate you doing warmer zones as that’s the way we are heading.
Simon
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By PhilipH2 - 12 Jan 2019
Simon
OK - since we can draw on the collective knowledge of members I will post a request on the facebook page for people to contribute om all three conditions and ask for any variations that are specific to in the water or on the hard?
Phil
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By Dick - 12 Jan 2019
Hi Phil,
I have over-wintered Alchemy in many places, cold and warm, and both in water and on the hard, and am happy to participate. Can the Forum be "home base" for this project where all the data/suggestions etc. migrates for those of us who do not do FB?
Thanks, Dick Stevenson, s/v Alchemy
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By simoncurrin - 12 Jan 2019
Dick
This is very much a Forum initiative and I think Phil is only using Facebook as a way of drawing in a wider group of OCC contributors.
Dick what do you do with batteries in the extreme cold for the winter? The conventional wisdom is that they should be removed but we have never done this and have had no problems. We just make sure they are fully charged then we physically disconnect them. Our AGM’s don’t freeze until -87 according to the manufacturer and, to date, everything has survived.
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By Dick - 13 Jan 2019
Hi Simon,
My understanding:
Flooded batteries are most vulnerable to freezing over the winter: in part because their electrolyte is more liquid, but mostly because they lose their charge far more rapidly that gel or AGM and the lost charge makes it more vulnerable. My experience is with gels primarily.
I try, and have always succeeded, in always having a “caretaker” for Alchemy over a winter’s storage. Often this is a fellow cruiser who will be in the area, sometimes a yard worker, sometimes a retired person familiar with boats. Their job varies but is primarily to charge the batteries at the schedule I set up ahead of time. I make things as simple as possible: usually the work is to just plug the shore power cord in (I never leave the boat plugged in 24/7).
If I think it is unlikely that there will be a hard freeze, I am comfortable leaving my gels fully charged for a few months unattended, but since I am looking at a 4-5-month lay-up, I usually have the batteries charged for a few hours on a monthly basis.
Removing your battery bank has always seemed to me a boat yard’s ploy to make a lot of money. Possibly it makes sense (in the old days) for flooded batteries in very cold climate where one is unable to find reliable caretaking. But then, you have to find someone reliable to watch over them (a bit) wherever they end up being stored. (I would not recommend attaching to a “trickle” charger and forgetting for the winter: a practice I suspect many boatyards indulge in: charge and then leave for a period and checking the voltage periodically). Over decades of storing boats in the company of many others, I do not remember anyone removing their batteries.
I do not disconnect my battery bank completely, although if leaving the boat unattended in a warmish climate and the batteries are not flooded, this may make sense as there are always small draws that eventually will bring batteries down. With reliable caretaking, I do not see disconnecting the batteries as necessary. I also like to have the bilge pump active as water will get in, in rainy climates, through the mast and then accumulate with the anti-freeze I have left sloshed in the bilge and can be then pumped out.
AGM’s sound like the battery to have in very cold weather. What was the resting v reading on your AGM’s after a winter on the hard in Greenland (or Iceland)? I am not sure gel’s are that robust with respect to cold and flooded batteries certainly are not.
I am sure I left something out: come back with questions/comments.
My best, Dick Stevenson, s/v Alchemy
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By simoncurrin - 13 Jan 2019
Dick
Yes to leaving the bilge pump on. Indeed we had to do this as we had to winterise in the water 3 months before the boat was hauled. We overcame this by disconnecting 80% of the battery bank completely and leaving a sacrificial 20% connected and plugged into shore power. In Greenland we had no reliable caretaker despite best endeavours and upon our return discovered that The yard had hauled in late November as the sea froze but NEVER connected the shore power cable.
When we returned in June (after a 9 month layup) the voltage in our disconnected AGM’s was 12.7v. Sadly I had reconnected to SHOREPOWER before checking the voltage in the ‘sacrificial’ batteries.
In Lewisporte the power for the yard is switched off from November to March and so in-boat top up is not possible for us.
Our starting battery is our only flooded battery and we do remove this and place in a heated shed. Our’s currently resides in Bryan’s office!
In Iceland we did things differently as we overwintering both times in the water with a reliable and cheap electricity supply. Our charger is pretty smart and does periodic top up automatically. We were able to visit Iceland several times during both winters and we were able to stay on the boat with all systems (including dehumidifier and frost protection) working. This practice does not appear to have been detrimental to our battery bank which is now 6 years old. Of course it is lightly used when compared to a live aboard.
We might have an unpleasant shock (because of these various practices) when we return to Lewisporte in June but my financial controller ( Sally) is braced for it! I will let you know (here on the Forum) how it goes when we recommission.
Simon
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By Dick - 14 Jan 2019
Hi Simon,
That is a very impressive stat: 6 yo AGM battery bank left for winter on its own and reads 12.7 after 9 months: even for lightly used batteries. Part of me wants to argue with you that it is not possible while the other half intends to go out and buy AGMs for Alchemy. It would have been interesting to know what the “in line” battery v was after a winter of parasitic draw as well as the bilge pump.
Is Ivan watching over Shimshal in Lewisporte? If so, I bet he could get an extension cord to the boat for a charge. In any case, it sounds like it is un-necessary with the AGMs lasting so long and it sounds like you may have disconnected them.
I doubt you will have an unpleasant shock and need new batteries. My gels always gave me a year or two warning.
My best, Dick
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By simoncurrin - 14 Jan 2019
Dick,
You have made me doubt my memory which can play tricks at times! I am though certain it was >12 volts.
Ivan is keeping an eye but I gather the yard has a policy of switching off all power during that period - I think for insurance reasons. We left the sacrificial two batteries connected to SHOREPOWER with our dehumidifier on in order to cope with the periods before and after the winter freeze.
I will certainly report back on the voltages of all circuits in June. As ever we are keeping our fingers crossed!
Simon
Simon
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By PhilipH2 - 14 Jan 2019
Dick the Facebook post asks folks specifically to come to the Forum to share their knowledge and experience rather than post on Facebook. Frances Rennie has also made the post on Facebook "sticky" so that it stays at the top of the OCC page for a while. We will see what happens. Cheers Phil
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By Dick - 14 Jan 2019
Hi Phil,
That sounds good.
It would be nice to have those who have thoughts on these subjects and who enjoy sharing and comparing on the Forum. That way the ongoing search for an approximation of “best practices” can be archived.
My best, Dick Stevenson, s/v Alchemy
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By Dick - 15 Jan 2019
Hi Simon,
I know you have built in de-humidifying. Can you say more about it? The equipment, how it works, dissicant? , power draw etc. Thanks, Dick
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By Dick - 15 Jan 2019
Hi Simon and all,
I apologize in advance, Simon, for using your comment to kick off from and write about the wider issue of unattended de-humidifiers and storage. And I do know yours is a built-in unit: I am speaking of the suitcase size household units that many skippers, I noticed, in cooler/colder climes use 24/7 when not aboard. Sometimes this is a full winter storage and sometimes this is from weekend to weekend when not aboard and the boat is waiting for its next outing.
The argument in favor of doing this is that the boat remains sweat and mold free and onboard equipment is likely to be freer of problems. The latter may be true, but with high quality equipment, I doubt it, but the former is definitely true for many boats. Some dehumidifiers also impart a bit of warmth, which I am sure the boat appreciates as well.
I am perfectly clear that when living aboard in cool/cold climates, a dehumidifier is an absolute must (at least for Ginger and I who prize comfort and in no way want our cruising lives to approach camping). Some very stalwart souls can live in boats that they keep open in all but the coldest weather, but we like a warm cozy cabin and, without a dehumidifier, we would soon have condensation covering the inside of the boat and start mold everywhere.
I would want to make the case that the proliferation of de-humidifying devices one sees in the marine market (gels, electric etc.) is directly related (at least to some extent) to how poorly ventilated modern boats are nowadays. Manufacturers are saving money by not ensuring that their boats can be well ventilated. Good ventilation when rain is falling, when salt water is flying costs money, but is never a deciding factor in purchasing.*
So, I believe that de-humidifiers are a great boon to comfort (and the ship’s well-being) when living aboard, but I think it is fairly easy to make the case that leaving dehumidifiers going un-attended is playing a bit of Russian roulette with the chance of a fire. I know of numerous reports of this occurring and have seen first hand the melting insulation, smoke and char of a de-humidifier about the go to the next stage of a live-aboard neighbor in London.
This worry about de-humidifiers and their potential for fire, I would guess, just escalates in those locations where the cleanliness of the power feed may not be so well regulated (voltage spikes and drops, varying hertz). As well, it should be noted, that de-humidifiers are built to a price and designed with the expectation that they will be used in a home with good power, in a secure location and not moved around all the time (a typical life of a d-h on a boat).
I would want to suggest that the safest way to leave a boat, whether for a winter or for a week or two between sails, is for the vessel to be well ventilated and “allowed” to equalize with the ambient air, temperature and humidity. If your vessels ventilation can’t ventilate well enough to mirror the outside conditions, then I would suggest doing something about it: if only because when offshore, life below will be a misery at times. An added benefit is that you do not have to leave your boat plugged in when un-attended: a practice which, while likely to generally work out, but when it goes awry can lead to problems, especially when no one is around to catch problems in the making.
But my position does not lead inexorably to a moldy un-sweet boat when skipper and crew return to it. For example: Alchemy has adequate ventilation (two dorades in a 40-foot hull) which, when we are gone, we augment with the shower portlight being left open and a portable solar fan in an access hole to the engine area. Usually this is enough. The next level is to ensure cushions are “ajar” and the cabinets etc. are open, done to ensure air gets into the nooks and crannies. I suspect this might not suffice in some locations (The Rio Dulce in Guatemala for ex.), but this has worked for us in over-wintering spots from southern Turkey to London to Lerwick, the Shetland Islands. In these weather-disparate weather locations we have returned to a boat that was sweet and habitable.
All is not lost if your boat is not adequately ventilated, augmenting can usually be done. Best might be to add dorades (or dorade equivalent scoops as that will help underway as well). This is often more easily accomplished than initially supposed. In storage portlights can be left open such as the shower portlight. Where rain might get in where one does not want it, there are commercial “hoods” or one could cobble together portlight covers for the winter. If the boat is covered for the winter, worries are over: leave lots open and the boat will equalize with the outside. Some skippers effectively and permanently install solar fans, but location would be important as I am not sure how water-tight they are when flooded with green water.
Please come back with thoughts/comments.
My best, Dick Stevenson, s/v Alchemy
*Ventilation is also a huge issue at sea. A poorly ventilated vessel makes for unhappy, seasick, uncomfortable crew at sea and borders on a safety issue in certain conditions. Many purchase their boats with little consideration of this important factor. (Alchemy, with its 2 dorades, when underway and closed up in rain or wild conditions can get stuffy down below. This is especially the case downwind when the dorades do little to contribute to ventilation. Multiple interior fans help a great deal as even stuffy air is made more acceptable by movement.)
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By Dick - 16 Jan 2019
Hi Simon,
Even if the AGM batteries were above 12.0 rather than 12.7, I believe that is charge enough to protect them from most freezing temperatures likely encountered and that capacity to hold a charge over 9 months is impressive. Dick
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By simoncurrin - 16 Jan 2019
Dick
I, of course, agree ventilation is important and we have dorades too.
In damp, cold climates such as Scotland and Iceland then dehumidifying makes a great difference to comfort when on board. It’s something to do with the latent heat of evaporation if my school boy physics is correct. That is primarily why we had a permanently installed dehumidifier specified when we built our current boat. It sucks in moist air from the saloon and pumps dry air fore and aft to ensure good air circulation. The condensate is pumped directly overboard and does not accumulate in the bilges. It is a 240 volt AC device which has a very stable power supply through our isolating transformer. It has it’s own RCD breaker and thermal protection circuits. I believe the risk of fire is miniscule. Famous last words!
We always leave all cupboards open and cushions away from the hull but have no reservations about leaving the dehumidifier on when left unattended and when there is a reliable power supply.
I accept that there is no need to do this in very cold climates but I would prefer my boat to over winter at a lower humidity than the ambient humidity present in Scotland and Iceland during winter.
We spent two winters afloat in Reykjavik with free electricity and advise anyone doing likewise to leave their dehumidifiers set to 80% or less for entire winter.
In Newfoundland and in Greenland we left the dehumidifier on for the autumn when there would be freeze / thaw cycles. We know that the power will be disconnected through the depths of winter but the hope is that the boat will be by then frozen.
I would be interested to hear about the incidence of fires caused by these devices. It is not something I had considered.
Simon
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By Dick - 16 Jan 2019
Hi Simon,
Thanks for the info: I do not believe I know of any other cruiser with a built-in de-humidifier.
To be clear, I have no knowledge of built in de-humidifiers such as you have aboard Shimshal. I was using your comments to respond generally to de-humidifiers that much more commonly find themselves aboard cruising boats. The ones I was referring to are the household type de-humidifiers that are about suitcase size. I know of no significantly sized portable de-humidifier built with the marine environment/being-on-a boat in its design parameters.
I am unable to cite sources, but I remember at least 2 articles/notices in the UK slicks (probably able to be found) when I was cruising those waters and, of course, there is the first-hand observation I mentioned in my previous posting. I would not bring it up, but I do believe the portable household de-humidifiers are an unnecessary risk and that a sweet boat unaffected by mold etc. can usually be achieved with-out this risk, small as it may be.
My best, Dick
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By simoncurrin - 16 Jan 2019
Dick all understood. When next aboard I will, for completeness, dig out the make and specification of our dehumidifier. Being built in I have no idea what brand etc it is.
Simon
edited by simoncurrin on 1/16/2019
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By bbalme - 16 Jan 2019
1. Dehumidifiers: In the past I've left the boat without dehumidifier but vented (4 dorades and vents in the shrink wrap covering)) - no detrimental effects. No significant mold either. Last month when I left the boat for just 2 weeks in damp Whitehaven, I left the portable dehumidifier (running without qualms) but stupidly, did not connect the outflow hose correctly, so it stopped after filling up the first tray! (Idiot!) Note: We did nearly burn our boat down last year in the Caribbean when we left the Christmas lights on while ashore for a drink - the extension cord connection sitting on top of the sail cover melted - fortunately the inverter tripped off before serious damage occurred. Now I always check the condition of the plug and socket - to me the weakest link in the circuit as all other connections should be solid.
2. Batteries: I have lead acid, never disconnected them during the winter, never stored them elsewhere. Never had particularly good life out of them either! - but I suspect life was more due to poor usage than storage...
3. Bilge pump - I always leave on since water does enter through mast, etc. I constantly worried that antifreeze in the bilge would become so diluted as to not be effective - so far it's never frozen and while New England is not the coldest spot, it's not exactly balmy either!
4. Antifreeze usage - in New England I would typically use at least twice as much antifreeze as anyone else! Probably because I was doing it wrong or stupidly - but I wanted to be sure I got every bit of hose & pump covered. So far never lost anything due to freezing and the stuff is so cheap that I consider it good insurance.
5. Living aboard is so much easier - I haven't winterized anything this winter as the boat is being kept nice and cozy - previous two years we solved it by heading to the Caribbean!
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By Dick - 16 Jan 2019
Hi Bill,
Not in any particular order and with respect to the numbers from your posting:
5, Living aboard is wonderful and, yes, one of the joys in the 12 years we lived aboard full time was that we did not have to winterize.
4. Antifreeze in the UK for fresh water systems, I found very much more expensive, which made winterizing far more of a challenge. I am glad to return to inexpensive antifreeze. But, I agree, when in doubt, use more.
3. A good reason to have a caretaker check occasionally and have some fresh antifreeze ready at hand to top up the bilges supply.
2. By lead acid I assume the batteries to be flooded. Flooded batteries last according to maintenance (topping up the electrolyte, charging regimen, etc.) and the quality when bought (which vary widely). Alchemy relies on good quality gel batteries which I have been very happy with for over 2 decades now and am very familiar with. That said, most cruisers who wander widely (and anchor a lot) are opting nowadays for AGMs which have a few attributes that make them a (small) step more desirable than gels.
2. I also never disconnect during winter storage.
1. There is a necessary vigilance around boats (salt water) with electricity that exceeds the vigilance necessary in other areas. We become seduced into thinking that we can operate as if we were at home on land: and we cannot. I do not like leaving boats plugged in un-attended for lengths of time. The anti is too high: when mishaps occur, they are usually serious. I am back in the Americas (Canada now) and one of the first things I did was to survey my long un-used 110 AC system and I am about to get a professional survey (something I believe every one should do every decade or so: an electrical survey by a qualified and certified marine electrician). Fires scare me more than most anything on a boat. We are upgrading our shore power plugs to “Smart Plugs”, something I believe every boat will be required to do in the future as they are so much safer and also looking into upgrading our galvanic isolator.
My best, Dick Stevenson, s/v Alchemy
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By Dick - 16 Jan 2019
Hi Simon, Yes, I would like to know more about the built-in de-humidifier. Thanks, Dick
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By dheath - 17 Jan 2019
[quote=Simon Currin]In order to remember the lessons we have learned in recent years I would like to write a ‘best practice’ article on preparing a boat to overwinter (unattended) in very cold climates. It would be great to use this thread to collate the experiences of others.
Simon[/quote]
Here is my check list. It was for our own use and may not make sense to others. I tried to clarify the tings I noticed, but feel free to ask.
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
Bring things inside
Boat hooks
stern anchor
stern line reel
MOB pole
remove headsails
tie mainsail to the boom
empty cockpit lockers
disconnect all antennas
disconnect power cords
disconnect VHF (all wires)
disconnect depth sounder (all wires)
turn on solar panel
rotate Engine to close all valves (Most engines do not have this feature)
reverse forward vents, if not in slip or on land
rig after vents for rain, make sure all vents are properly fitted.
tie engine room door open
fill all water tanks and add 1 tablespoon/25 US Gallons of Chlorine Bleach
close all ports and curtains
check battery water (over fill about 50% of the allowable room)
check bilge
lock pilot berth
rig interior for rough weather (not if on land, but we do have earthquakes)
dive on mooring
wrap cutlass bearing and prop
minimize air and cooking oil bottles that are in use, or give away (You can add water to reduce the air)
dispose of perishable food
remove flags
oil tools and vice
close water inlet and head and galley seacocks if in water. Put bronze wool or scrubby in them if on land, to keep critters out
drain salt water from engine
pump saltwater lines empty
empty teapot
lock Dinghy on cabin top
put calculators in ammo box for lightning protection
pull all fuses, except bilge pump
leave auto bilge pump in auto position and reset counter. Some open a low seacock and remove the hose, so water can exit. Or, drain at shaft log.
empty fridge and leave open and turned off
rinse stainless steel cookware and sink with freshwater. Do not use saltwater anymore
empty trash and slop bucket. (We put dry trash in a large waste basket and fruit & veg scraps in a smaller slop bucket, that we empty more often.)
put out roach proof. This is super fine boric acid. Just a very light dusting in cupboards and the sole.
http://acehardwaremaldives.com/product/outdoor-living/73862/
lock all hatches
shut off water if connected to shore water and disconnect hose (Once a faucet did not shut all the way off and the pistol nozzle broke while we were away and only our bilge pump and an alert neighbor saved us.
Stow drained water hose
put blankets and things that can fall on sole
open internal lockers, etc. for ventilation
double check that all portholes, etc are closed
check all dock lines and chafe gear
If putting antifreeze in freshwater system, be sure to remove all water first, then add special non-toxic antifreeze, and pump through the system.
When removing antifreeze, be sure to flush very well with clean water.
When returning to boat, the freshwater will not taste good until thoroughly flushed. Probably this comes from the freshwater pump diaphragms.
Put marina gate cards on chart table, in obvious spot
edited by dheath on 1/17/2019
edited by dheath on 1/17/2019
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By Dick - 17 Jan 2019
[quote=dheath][quote=Simon Currin]In order to remember the lessons we have learned in recent years I would like to write a ‘best practice’ article on preparing a boat to overwinter (unattended) in very cold climates. It would be great to use this thread to collate the experiences of others.
Simon[/quote]
Here is my check list. It was for our own use and may not make sense to others. I tried to clarify the tings I noticed, but feel free to ask.
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
Bring things inside
Boat hooks
stern anchor
stern line reel
MOB pole
remove headsails
tie mainsail to the boom
empty cockpit lockers
disconnect all antennas
disconnect power cords
disconnect VHF (all wires)
disconnect depth sounder (all wires)
turn on solar panel
rotate Engine to close all valves (Most engines do not have this feature)
reverse forward vents, if not in slip or on land
rig after vents for rain, make sure all vents are properly fitted.
tie engine room door open
fill all water tanks and add 1 tablespoon/25 US Gallons of Chlorine Bleach
close all ports and curtains
check battery water (over fill about 50% of the allowable room)
check bilge
lock pilot berth
rig interior for rough weather (not if on land, but we do have earthquakes)
dive on mooring
wrap cutlass bearing and prop
minimize air and cooking oil bottles that are in use, or give away (You can add water to reduce the air)
dispose of perishable food
remove flags
oil tools and vice
close water inlet and head and galley seacocks if in water. Put bronze wool or scrubby in them if on land, to keep critters out
drain salt water from engine
pump saltwater lines empty
empty teapot
lock Dinghy on cabin top
put calculators in ammo box for lightning protection
pull all fuses, except bilge pump
leave auto bilge pump in auto position and reset counter. Some open a low seacock and remove the hose, so water can exit. Or, drain at shaft log.
empty fridge and leave open and turned off
rinse stainless steel cookware and sink with freshwater. Do not use saltwater anymore
empty trash and slop bucket. (We put dry trash in a large waste basket and fruit & veg scraps in a smaller slop bucket, that we empty more often.)
put out roach proof. This is super fine boric acid. Just a very light dusting in cupboards and the sole.
http://acehardwaremaldives.com/product/outdoor-living/73862/
lock all hatches
shut off water if connected to shore water and disconnect hose (Once a faucet did not shut all the way off and the pistol nozzle broke while we were away and only our bilge pump and an alert neighbor saved us.
Stow drained water hose
put blankets and things that can fall on sole
open internal lockers, etc. for ventilation
double check that all portholes, etc are closed
check all dock lines and chafe gear
If putting antifreeze in freshwater system, be sure to remove all water first, then add special non-toxic antifreeze, and pump through the system.
When removing antifreeze, be sure to flush very well with clean water.
When returning to boat, the freshwater will not taste good until thoroughly flushed. Probably this comes from the freshwater pump diaphragms.
Put marina gate cards on chart table, in obvious spot
edited by dheath on 1/17/2019
edited by dheath on 1/17/2019[/quote]
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By Dick - 17 Jan 2019
Hi DHeath,
There are certain base line considerations when it comes to devising an over-wintering plan. You wrote this following Simon’s initial post with regards to very cold climate. Is that the case? Are you in water or out? Mast in or out? Do you have a caretaker who can visit say, once a month, go inside and check battery voltage and bilge? Do you have access to electricity? Will the boat be covered? How long is the lay up?
In a decision tree, each of the above considerations pushes one direction or another.
Below I have given some quick thoughts to some of your to-do list (Your thought followed by my comment. I am shooting from the hip a bit as I may not understand your particular situation/boat well, but I thought it worthwhile as we are developing a more generic plan.
My best, Dick Stevenson
You said the vessel would be un-attended: I would do my best to have someone one hand to be a caretaker. At some future date we can get into the details of what his/her inspection should entail.
fill all water tanks and add 1 tablespoon/25 US Gallons of Chlorine Bleach
I would empty all tanks in any climate. What is your thinking about filling?
check battery water (over fill about 50% of the allowable room)
Not sure this is wise, but I have not owned flooded batteries in decades. I would suggest adding that much water to charge and use the batteries for a period to ensure the new water is well mixed with the electrolyte.
drain salt water from engine
pump saltwater lines empty
Not so easy with some engines and may leave pockets of raw water. Better, perhaps, to break the raw water intake hose and put in a bucket of antifreeze with anti-corrosion properties.
pull all fuses, except bilge pump
Not sure the rational. If bilge pump is on its own circuit, as I would recommend it to be, then to use the house battery dis-connect switch should keep any power from getting to the electrical distribution panel/circuit breakers/ fuses.
empty fridge and leave open and turned off
Use this time to clean thoroughly
shut off water if connected to shore water and disconnect hose (Once a faucet did not shut all the way off and the pistol nozzle broke while we were away and only our bilge pump and an alert neighbor saved us.
Please see my write up in the Forum archives of a method to ensure that you do not sink your boat when connected to shore water supply: one of the more embarrassing ways to lose your boat.
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By DariaBlackwell - 17 Jan 2019
Drain and bypass the water heater to avoid having antifreeze residue to flush out.
Flush a small amount of vinegar and vegetable oil through heads to keep microorganisms from growing and rubber lubricated.
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By Dick - 19 Jan 2019
Hi Daria,
Another good reason to cobble together (quite easy) a bypass for the hot water heater/calorifier is that it just takes a lot of antifreeze to ensure that it has enough in it to keep from freezing. Emptying it is more of a sure thing. The by-pass may also keep your fresh water system (at least the cold water part) functional if (when) your hot water heater/calorifier goes bad.
My best, Dick Stevenson, s/v Alchemy
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By Janice.Fennymore-White - 27 Jan 2019
This is our Check list for Destiny for an over winter in Sisimiut, Greenland
Minus 40°c Winterising Check List 2017
DRAIN
1. Empty water tanks
2. Drain Calorifiers by inlet, Use airline on the Outlet.
3. Drain Quooker by removing and turning upside down.
4. Blow out all Fresh water pipes with airline; Supply, Hot & Cold.
5. Blow out sea water system.
6. Drain out Engine and generator Exhaust silencers.
7. Holding tanks
8. Forecabin grey water collecting tank.
9. Fresh water carbon filter unit
10. Soap dishes
ANTIFREEZE
1. Check all antifreeze to relevant concentration;
Engine
Generator
Central heating
Fridge coolant
Bilge pump manifold
2. Fill Raw water inlet manifold via service valve run engine and generator to fill exhaust system.
3. Fill heads and flush through into pumps and seacocks.
WATERMAKER
1. Drain down filters and wash or replace. Fill system with preservative. Then either:
A. Remove main panel and store in above freezing area, blow through HP and priming pump with air or B. Fill system with a mix of glycerine/Sodium Metabisulphate antifreeze and preservative.
REMOVE IMPELLORS
1. Engine Raw water
2. Engine Emergency bilge pump
3. Generator Raw water
4. Forepeak Bilge
5. Fuel polishing
OIL CHANGE & SERVICE
1. Engine
2. Generator
3. Outboards
BATTERIES
1. Disconnect House & Generator gels.
2. Leave AGM’s on charge if away more than 6mths.
REMOVE OFF BOAT
1. All water based drinks unless in coke/ lemonade style bottles
2. Remove any wine.
3. Remove all cleaning products that are water based or in hand sprayers; Bleach etc
4. Check First Aid kit for Eye wash- water based disinfectants etc.
5. All tinned goods unless high fat content, but stand all in a plastic bucket.
BLOCK (To prevent fine arctic powder snow)
Engine space air inlet and outlet vents
Microwave vent
Galley extractor vent
All dorades
Companionway
SY Destiny
Andy Fennymore-White
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By Dick - 28 Jan 2019
Hi Andy,
This is a very nice thoughtful list and you have covered lots of bases. A few questions and some thoughts follow:
Are you writing about a boat out of water (yes, I would guess)? Mast in?
In the following, I c&p your advice and follow with questions/comments.
Drain out Engine and generator Exhaust silencers. And
Fill Raw water inlet manifold via service valve run engine and generator to fill exhaust system.
If I follow your terminology correctly, I believe we have similar procedures: I run antifreeze with anti-corrosion properties via a service valve through the engine which effectively fills all the raw water hoses, passages, and the muffler/silencer. I like everything filled with antifreeze as this way the engine passages are not exposed to the salty marine air and are protected from corrosion and freezing. Any engineers out there who can weigh in here?
Blow out all Fresh water pipes with airline; Supply, Hot & Cold.
I have never done this, but I would want to be sure to get to the water residing in the pockets of the pumps. I am also curious whether blown air would push through pumps. Perhaps another option is to take anti-freeze that is for potable water systems and run it through the pumps and system: bypassing the water heater because it just takes too much to fill. This may be better advice on the American side of the pond where I have found this product to be quite inexpensive: in contrast to the UK where I found this stuff considerably more dear.
Not sure what a Quooker is.
Fuel polishing: remove impellor
Assume impellor is in a circulation pump that moves diesel fuel around for polishing: why remove impellor?
BATTERIES
1. Disconnect House & Generator gels.
2. Leave AGM’s on charge if away more than 6mths
Assume you are referring to gel cell batteries (for starter batteries?). It sounds like you are more comfortable leaving gel cell batteries unattended for long periods than AGMs (for house batteries?). Is this the case? I am also curious (nothing to do with winter) about mixing types of batteries: how does that work?
My best, Dick Stevenson, s/v Alchemy
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