By Mike.Brooks - 23 Feb 2020
Basic Los Roques Information Sheet – Michael Brooks, Sailing Yacht Exulans. May 2018.
Overview
An amazing cruising ground, bereft of recent information and accurate charts, with a very friendly populous, cheap though limited provisions and surprisingly good restaurants in the main island. Our journey through the archipelago was whistle stop as I had to arrive in Curacao for a flight back to Amsterdam. I had absolutely no security concerns whatsoever and met cruisers who had just arrived from Tortugas after an equally trouble free stop.
Gran Roque
When approaching Gran Roque from East, the initial approach should be made in daylight. There are large offlying reefs with breaking waves that are not in the charted positions. I heaved too for the early morning, around 15 NM from the start of the reef systems. Once first approach has been completed, the layout of the various obstructions becomes pretty clear and a night approach is neither particularly dangerous nor intimidating. If following Doyle’s Guide, do not and I repeat, do not take any of the information contained as absolute truth. Once you get to Bonaire, I think the salt plains have the required amount of salt to take his descriptions with. This book is very outdated and multiple approaches are not as they are charted, though I appreciated a lot has likley chnged since the final edition was carefully written by Chris.
Approach Gran Roque through the NW or NE Channel. The ‘Easy Route’ around the North of Gran Roque puts you down wind and down tide of your destination, it is a hell of a beat to the anchorage.
Gran Roque is likely in IALA A, not B as stated on most charts. When rounding the Eastern tip of Gran Roque, heading into the anchorage, keep the Green marks to Stbd and the Red to Port. I say likely as there is not information that this is the truth, but as I couldn’t imagine another port on the flood that I would be approaching using these marks, common sense (dangerous thing) tells me that its IALA A.
Fly flag Quebec once anchored and Guardacosta will come to you. Normally drafted from the mainland, the guys are pleasant and polite. I met one person who spoke English during my entire time in The Archipelago. Learn Spanish or take your dictionary. A beer during formalities on the boat with Guardacosta, will easy the process and it may find you a ‘friend’ ashore.
The checking in process is pretty easy, though slightly protracted. After Guardacosta have left your boat, or you have taken them ashore, proceed to Imigracion (Spanish spelling) by the Airfield, hopefully a ‘friend’ will have been procured for you by Guardacosta and they will guide you. From Imigracion proceed to the airport to pay your entrance to the Archipelago. (hopefully your friend will do this for you whilst you are having you passport stamped at Imigracion). It is around $60 - $75 USD total for entrance and exit, with the normally accepted $5 here and there to ease the process. Nod nod wink wink. Ensure you have paid for both Entry and Exit. These will be stamped and dated on your form.
After Imigracion go to INEA, Inparques and Guarda National, in this order. You do not need to pay at any of these other buildings but do not be surprised if charged the off $5 here and there. Make no attempt to ask the guys if they speak English. Hugely proud of Spanish they will deny ever having heard the language and it really fosters hostility until you make the required attempt to speak Spanish.
You have 15 days to explore the Archipelago but this can be extended without a problem. Do not try to charter guests in the islands if remaining over the 15 days. Eyes will be upon you.
Ashore in Gran Roque the best restaurant I found was El Canto de la Ballena. Nelly is a brilliant host, amazing cook and very well travelled. It is also the only place to get Wifi that we found. Tell her Mike from Carriacou sent you and you may get a free drink.
Provisioning can be done in the few shops that are in the town but don’t expect the world. Cheap doesn’t come into it however, they are well beyond cheap. 5 litres of bottled water is $1 USD and cheese in the little butchers the same. My best advice is to arrive fully provisioned however. A huge meal for two with drinks at the local restaurants is around $50 USD.
To check out of the Archipelago, first go to Imigracion, Guardacosta and then INEA. At INEA ask to be given permission to stop in Las Aves. This will likely be granted for a nominal fee. Guardacosta will come out to inspect the boat before you leave and take your fingerprint for Las Aves.
Francisqui
The entrance to the lagoon now has a house on stilts and a huge sandbank in what was once, the port channel. Use the starboard channel after the sun has passed its zenith and head North to the mangroves. Great snorkelling a bar and salt pan lake ashore.
Sarqui and Espequi
The anchorage at Sarqui has a very shallow reef to the south. Make no attempt to cross this reef, Exulans is shoal at 3' and I would touch. Go around the entire reef system and approach the anchorage in Sarqui from West. Drop in 6' on a sand bottom with great holding. Great snorkelling at both islands.
Dos Mosqises
A very windy anchorage with complex surrounding reef system. Approach from West, eyeball in and drop in the lee of the Research Station. Well worth a visit. Station Comandante Jose and Assistant Thomas were amazing, give excellent guided tours and you may be invited to dinner. Take a present back the next morning as a thank you.
Cayo De Agua
Nice to visit and rest before the return journey to Gran Roque to check out of the archipelago.
Cayo Remanso
Good overnight anchorage but much deeper than suggested on charts. Good stop as can be made after a few hours beat to windward from Cayo de Agua.
Las Aves
A great set of islands in total contrast to Los Roques. Haunting anchorages covered in mangroves and thousands of birds, the place really is great. You are given one day, but as there is no-one there, my recommendation is stay for a few.
Conclusion
As I mentioned initially, I only had just over a week in Los Roques as it was whistle stop. Plan in two weeks, you will not be disappointed. I did not have a functioning depth sounder and navigated all of the reefs perfectly safely. I have purposely not put in any recommendations about how to navigate reef systems as I do not want to insult those of you with much more sailing experience than me, but please, if you are unsure, drop me a message and I’ll happily give you some tips.
Fair winds and following seas,
Mike
Sailing Yacht Exulans
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