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Mike Westin Niel McCubbin - MilvinaOther Websites
Ivan and Pat Andrews, members of the Halberg Rassy Owners Association but not the OCC, have kindly given permission for a link to their site www.kissen.co.uk. It contains harbour information on a host of ports and anchorages as well as their personal reminiscences on cruising the Baltic.
http://www.kissen.co.uk/sweden.phpGota KanalHola GustenNorwegian Cruising Guide (covers Western Sweden)The Bohuslän archipelagoThe Karlskrona archipelago
http://www.karlskrona.se/
See also http://www.skargarden.net
Visit Sweden
Reports:
Guide to Cruising in Stockholm and Sweden - Attached
[attachment=364]LocalsGuide.pdf[/attachment]
Gota Canal & Trollhatten Canal, General Comments - Attached
[attachment=363]GotaCanal.pdf[/attachment]
Swedish Archipelagos contributed by Mike Westin in 2009
Huga Kusten Archipelago – 63°00.00'N, 18°30.00'E
Gryt and St Anna Archipelago – 58°00.00'N, 17°00.00'E
Karlskrona Archipelago – 56°00.00'N, 15°30.00'E
Bohuslän Archipelago – 58°00.00'N, 11°30.00'E
Gryt and St Anna Archipelago – 58°00.00'N, 17°00.00'E
Karlskrona Archipelago – 56°00.00'N, 15°30.00'E
Bohuslän Archipelago – 58°00.00'N, 11°30.00'E
Höga Kusten archipelago – 63°00.00'N, 18°30.00'E
Gryt and St Anna Archipelago – 58°00.00'N, 17°00.00'E
Karlskrona Archipelago – 56°00.00'N, 15°30.00'E
Bohuslän Archipelago – 58°00.00'N, 11°30.00'E
Huga Kusten Archipelago – 63°00.00'N, 18°30.00'E
Gryt and St Anna Archipelago – 58°00.00'N, 17°00.00'E
Karlskrona Archipelago – 56°00.00'N, 15°30.00'E
Bohuslän Archipelago – 58°00.00'N, 11°30.00'E
Stockholm archipelago – 59°15.00'N, 18°45.00'E
[attachment=365]Swedish_Archipeligos.jpg[/attachment]
(Mike Westin is Editor-in-Chief of Praktiskt Båtägande – Sweden’s equivalent to the UK’s Practical Boat Owner. Mike can be contacted via e-mail at rabalder@dromresan.com, or by telephone on +46 70 858 28 56 (mobile). Updated information on sailing in Sweden will also be found on his website, www.dromresan.com/english.)
Sweden and the Baltic Sea may seem to be positioned in a cul-de-sac in the northeastern parts of Europe, but I can guarantee that if you make the effort you will find one of the world’s best cruising areas. The downside may be cold, unstable weather – though it’s basically the same as in UK, but with a bit less rain! In this article I will try and provide a practical approach for members who are planning to take part in the Baltic Rally or to visit independently.
The secret skerries
In my job as a boating journalist I get to visit some of the best cruising areas of Sweden (and the world) and I still find new favourites along the coast every summer. Sweden has more than 7600 kilometres (4100 nautical miles) of coastline. The good thing is that it is littered with tens of thousands of islands. The archipelago outside Stockholm – the Skerries or Skärgård – alone has about 24,000 islands and islets There are five main archipelagos. The West coast and Bohuslän have rocky islands with few trees but with immense beauty. On the south coast there’s a smaller archipelago outside the town of Karlskrona – shallow and rarely visited other than by the locals. On the east coast there are three archipelagos which are more or less connected, from Kråkelund in the south through St Anna and Gryt to the Stockholm archipelago. Finally there is Höga Kusten in the north, where they make the (in)famous fermented herring.
The Bohuslän Archipelago
These red granite islands north of Götheborg, with hardly any trees and with white-painted houses clinging onto the rock, are a personal favourite. The few but extremely picturesque villages – like Marstrand, Smögen, Hunnebostrand and Lysekil – are heavily visited during the summer holidays, particularly by visiting Norwegians and Germans. Many natural harbours can be found among the islands and the fishing industry is still of major importance.
The Karlskrona Archipelago
A popular cruising area on the south coast is the attractive Karlskrona Archipelago, which is rather shallow and until recently it was forbidden to foreigners because of the many military installations. This is the place where, in late October 1981, the Soviet submarine U-137 went aground while her Russian skipper was drunk. Sweden released the submarine when the radar showed that some large Soviet destroyers were approaching to take her back by force...
The Gryt and St Anna Archipelagos
Starting just outside Västervik, these islands stretch north to Arkösund, just north of the entrance to the Göta Kanal. With fewer boats than the Stockholm area, this is the place to have a cove totally for yourself. The main inshore route is well travelled, but not that many deviate and discover what is a few hundred metres away – do that and you may be well rewarded.
The Stockholm archipelago
This is the biggest archipelago of them all, with around 24, 000 islands and islets. Many Swedes find enough sailing here to last a lifetime. It is easy to find a secluded bay and if you have the time (and some guts) try and visit some of the outer skerries – this is where I return year after year.
The Höga Kusten archipelago
The name means ‘the high coast’. The area was compressed under three kilometres of ice during the last ice age and the resulting isostatic uplift is still in progress today – the main reason why the area has been chosen as a World Heritage Site. There are few boats, but its rugged coastline is very beautiful. Small fishing villages such as Ulvön and Trysunda can be visited, and it is also the place where surströmming (fermented herring) is made – an acquired taste even for Swedes.
The Göta Kanal
This shortcut across Sweden is an excellent way to return in the prevailing southwesterlies. The canal itself is 190 kilometres (103 nautical miles) long, but together with Lakes Vättern and Vänern and the Trollhätte Kanal totals 387 kilometres (209 miles) – and 64 locks – from coast to coast. There is no commercial traffic, apart from some vintage passenger cruisers which have priority in the locks. Passage normally takes a week, which gives enough time to do some sightseeing, though it can be done in three or four long days. The cost is about €460 for a boat of up to 12m, which includes all marina fees (even electricity). The second canal, from Lake Vänern to Götheborg, adds about €80. There are twenty free ‘guest harbours’ along the canal. I recommend that you should not miss the small town of Söderköping at the entrance of the canal, the old town in Linköping, or the marina in the moat of Vadstena Castle (not actually a part of the canal and not included in the price).
The right of public access
Allemansrätten (which translates as ‘every man’s right’) is the general right to walk over private land, sail through private waters, and tie one’s boat up to an island – as long as it’s not at the end of someone’s garden! – for a couple of days. The rule for the latter is that it should be out of sight from the main building and, if its feasible, to ask permission first. You are also allowed to pick flowers and berries (lingonberries, cloudberries and blueberries are common on the islands) for your personal use. If the area is a national park or otherwise protected you may not camp or take away anything (from berries to stones).
Practicalities
Sweden is part of the EU and clearance is not necessary when are arriving from a Schengen country (ie Denmark, Germany or Finland). The currency is the Kroner (SEK), though some shops also accept Euros. In March 2006 the exchange rate was 13.55 SEK to £1.00; 7.77 SEK to US$1.00 and 9.35 SEK to €1.00. Fuel is expensive – expect to pay about 11 SEK (£0.85) for a litre of diesel. Tax-free diesel can be ordered, but only for registered ships (more than 12m and 4m beam), though some outlets may sell tax-free diesel ‘under the counter’... Guest harbour fees are normally around 95–140 SEK (£7–£10) per night, though some popular marinas may be more expensive.
The cost of living
Food and alcoholic drinks are somewhat more expensive than in the UK. The Economist’s Big Mac index gives Sweden the figure US$3.94 compared to UK’s $3.37 (Norway $5.18, Denmark $4.49 and Estonia $2.27). Alcohol must be bought through governmental outlets called Systembolaget. There are additional distribution points in small shops on the bigger islands, but orders must be placed a day or two in advance. My suggestion is that you stock up while passing through Germany, which has the cheapest booze and beer in northern Europe. The Baltic States of Estonian, Latvia and Lithuania are also inexpensive. A pint in the pub in Sweden costs 40–55 SEK (£2.75–£4). Food is normally cheapest in the big supermarkets, but you can always find necessities in the island shops. Or sometimes a RIB speedboat carries a floating supermarket selling fresh bread, strawberries, milk and newspapers – everything at a cost.
How to get here
The normal route by boat is through the Kiel Canal (Nord–Ostsee Canal) and the southern parts of Denmark. Leaving from northern England or Scotland it is also possible to take the more direct route straight into the Kattegatt via the Skagerack. If connecting to or from a boat in Sweden there is fierce competition on the routes to and from UK and prices start from £30 (or less) one-way. Scandinavian Airlines (SAS) is the national carrier, but Ryanair and other companies provide low-price alternatives and almost all cities have direct flights to London.
When to come
Most Swedes (and for the west coast, Norwegians) have their holidays from midsummer through the end of June and into July. The popular marinas can be full then, though there will always be space to anchor in the bays. June and August are probably the best bet with a virtually empty coast in the weeks after the schools starts in mid August.
Weather, climate and daylight hours
During the summer there’s a prevailing southwesterly wind of around force 2–3 with periods of calm, and normally a sea breeze in the afternoon when the weather is fine. In July the frequency of gales is 2%. Due to the high latitudes it’s colder than, say, the Mediterranean, but once or twice each summer there’s a semi-stationary strong high pressure system which gives temperatures in the mid 30°s – Centigrade that is – for some weeks. Then everyone leaves the towns to go to the coast.
In general, low pressure systems from the Atlantic first hit the UK and then continue through Denmark before reaching the west coast of Sweden. Average July temperatures are: Stockholm – 17.2°C (63°F); Malmö – 16.8°C (62.2°F); Kiruna – 12.8°C (55°F). Daylight hours for the same cities in July are 18 hours, 17 hours and 24 hours respectively. During the summer it’s never dark in this area, with twilight through the night. This causes some people to have difficulties sleeping, though a towel across the hatch may help.
Navigation
Mostly the navigation is straightforward – there are many buoys and beacons to guide you around the coast. But as soon as you get outside the marked trails there are nothing but a myriad of islands, lurking shoals and fun-filled (at least as long as you know exactly where you are) navigation with the occasional challenge. When in doubt of the exact position, just go slowly. Every sailing Swede expects to hit a rock at least once every summer. Normally this is not considered a problem and is dealt with during the haul-out season. The good news is that there are no tides or currents (not counting the odd wind induced current in narrow and shallow waters, which may reach a knot or two in strong winds). The archipelagos can definitely be a test of your navigational skills, but it is most rewarding to find your way into a quiet bay where it’s only you and Mother Nature to share the space. Take your time to find some of these coves – it will be well worth it. The charts for the skerries are normally on a scale of 1:25 000 or 1:50 000 and can be bought in booklets – Båtsportkort – at about 420 SEK (£31) for each part of the coast. They are published every second year. I also suggest the CD The Living chart – a plotter programme, charts and harbour guide at the same time, for about 935 SEK (£69). There are some excellent 1:10 000 charts of some of the hard-to-reach skerries from a small company called Hydrographica (also available digitally).
Black-water waste
It is not (yet) compulsory to have a holding tank in the Baltic, though it is strongly recommended that you do not pump out waste into the water when in a confined bay or in the Göta Kanal. There are quite a few pump-out facilities or you can discharge when at sea or other open water and far from land. All guest harbours have toilets and showers, and I would recommend using them as a first choice.
Leaving your boat in Sweden
If possible, I would recommend leaving your boat on the hard in Sweden for the winter and continuing next summer, to give the Baltic enough time. If you can be present when the local boat club has its ‘haul out day’, you can often store a boat for less than 2700 SEK (£200) from October until May outside the big cities. If you would like someone to take care of everything for you at a marina, it can get expensive – around 4000–7000 SEK (£300–500) for the winter is not unheard of!
Getting on with the Swedes
We are proud of our coast and will try to give the best possible advice on places to visit and things to do. Ask for special boltholes – ‘secret’ natural harbours – and you can find places that will be very exceptional. Almost all Swedes speak at least some English – they may be shy at first but are normally keen to practice the language. Most Swedes would not invite people they don’t know for sundowners in their cockpit. On the other hand, they’d probably come cheerfully if you invite them instead! If invited to a Swedish family home you can bring flowers or a bottle of wine. Take off shoes before entering the house or apartment (and often on boats as well).
Midsummer’s Eve
Midsummer’s eve is the grand celebration in Sweden, with rituals going back to the time before the Vikings. The place to celebrate with friends, pickled herring and a few cartons of beer, is on a boat. The midsummer weekend gets very crowded everywhere along the coast. Midsummer is also the start of the holidays. Sometimes offices close completely and people cannot be reached for weeks (well cellular phones somewhat changed that). It’s like a four week bank holiday – everyone’s gone!
Food and drink
The food Swedes traditionally eat for the big midsummer celebrations is sill (pickled herring) – not to be confused with surströmming (fermented herring) with boiled new potatoes. Sill is like sushi but marinated in vinegar and sugar. Even though it’s an acquired taste it has been appreciated by many foreign friends that have visited us in the past. I also recommend that you try filmjölk (close to yoghurt) and kaviar, a salty caviar paste in tubes sold under the name ‘Kalles kaviar’. Favourite drinks are Swedish beer (mostly lagers, but try some of the local micro breweries) and schnapps, nubbe, which is aquavit, or possibly Absolut vodka. Tap water in many places is of the same quality that you normally buy bottled in continental Europe. The Swedish word for toasting is skål (pronounced ‘skoll’). The strawberries are a must, and you will find them sold everywhere just after midsummer. The low temperature in the spring and the long hours of sun makes them succulent and extremely flavourful. Almost everything you’d find in the supermarket at home, you will find in a Swedish supermarket – save Marmite and Oxo cubes!
The BIG tour
Cross the North Sea from northern UK to the south coast of Norway, and have a stop in Sörlandet before crossing into Bohuslän and the barren and rugged islands all the way down past Götheborg. The Kattegatt and the sound between Sweden and Denmark have only man-made harbours, but some very picturesque small towns. The next cruising area is the Karlskrona Archipelago with some true gems. Continue up the east coast of Sweden via the archipelagos of Santa Anna and Gryt to reach the renowned Stockholm archipelago. Continuing further north, unless you make a quick deviation to Gotland, Estonia, Finland or even St Petersburg in Russia, you will find some wilderness only compared to the west coast of Canada and Alaska. Crossing at 65°N you can take the boat on a lorry from Luleå on the Gulf of Bothnia to Bodø in Norway (diversion to Spitsbergen possible) and return to mainland Britain via Shetland and Orkney. A few thousand nautical miles, and probably two summer’s worth of holiday!