Flying Fish ArticlesAdmiralty Isles, Manus island, Lorengau. Lat 01°56’5S long 147°15’75E
Alotau.
Dobu
Duchateau islands.
Duke of York island group. Makada anchorage Lat 04°08’06S long 152°26’40E
English Harbour, New Ireland
HERMIT ISLES Lat 01°30’92 S Long 145°04’39E
Hummock Island, Engineer Group – 10°36.51'S, 151°22.40'E
Kavieng, New Ireland Lat 02°34’47S long 150°47’37E
Kiriwina
Lorengau
Louisaide Archpeligo – 11°00.00'S, 152°45.00'E
Louisiades Archipelago. Bagaman Island Lat 11°07’90S Long 152°42’00E
Ltamarina Island, Conflict Group – 10°45.85'S, 151°46.06'E
Mioko Island. Lat 04°13’76S long 152°27’34E
Misima Harbour. Lat 10°41’40S Long 152°50’70E
New Britain, Put Put Harbour or Rugen. Lat 04°39’89S Long 152°21’30E
New Ireland, English cove. Lat 04°45’25S long 152°51’50E
New Ireland, Ribinitz Harbour Lat 02°40’22S long 150°36’60E
Nimoa Island, Calvados Group – 11°18.13'S, 153°14.69'E
Nivani Island, DeBoyne Group – 10°47.43'S, 152°23.38'E
Pana Wina Island, Calvados Group – 11°10.64'S, 152°58.85'E
Panasia island Lat 11°07’95S Long 15°0’14E??
Pitt Bay on Basilaki Island – 10°38.41'S, 151°02.76'E
Rabaul
Samarai, Milne Bay area – 10°36.58'S, 150°39.60'E
The Engineer Group (Tubetube Islands).
FROM Beth Bushnell Splinters Apprentice
Length 10.9m draft 1.8m Aug/Sept 2000
General Notes on Papua New Guinea Cruising.
A visa is required for all visitors to PNG. This should be obtained in advance from a PNG embassy. We obtained ours in Singapore in 3 days. The cost was $160sg for the skipper and $80sg for crew. The visa is valid for 6 months after issue and for 2 months on entry. Extensions are possible to obtain in PNG but beware your passport is sent to Port Moresby for this. Most people getting extensions sent their passports by carrier, DHL are in Kavieng, Manus and Misima. I believe it is possible to obtain a visa on entry but passports are again sent off so better to arrive with one. We were in PNG for 2 weeks before formally checking in and it appears not to be a problem as long as one is visiting islands enroute to a check-in port.
We were repeatedly warned by local officials not to be ashore after dark. We were not aware of any troubles but there is an undercurrent of dissatisfaction, which occasionally surfaces in a violent manner. We did hear stories from other boats of trouble but this was in visiting mainland ports. We cruised alone but would advise a group if visiting the mainland.
Food shopping was better than we had anticipated. Fresh fruit and veg were scarce but tinned food was good and frozen meat from Aus & NZ was available in the major centres.
Fresh water is a problem. We have a water maker so no difficulty for us but if you haven’t you could be stuck. However it rains heavily around here so collecting rainwater is an easy solution.
The weather was windy around the Louisiades almost to New Ireland, being in the SE trades area while the rest of the time we had overcast, and squally conditions most of the time. We had torrential rain and it lasted days at times. It was noticeably cooler as we got further south and the water temperature dropped. This was in September.
The passages from Hermit isles down to New Ireland all had contrary current, headwinds and heavy squalls but the run across to Australia was fast. We had at least a knot of current with us and 20-30 knots of wind giving a fast, wet fetch.
The Louisiades group is not relaxing sailing. The lagoon is big so wind over tide can raise nasty big seas. The current runs fast between the islands and through the reef entrances resulting in overfalls and tiderips. Navigating around the lagoon requires care as none of the shallow reef patches, 2m or less, are marked. Zodiacs mud maps we found invaluable and, if you can find it, a copy of Alan Lucas’s Pilot of Papua New Guinea are useful. The new Guide to SE.Asia, while very useful, is just not clear or detailed enough.
Rabul volcano is very active. We had ash on deck 50miles away. Boats that did visit reported anchorage at the yacht club was not possible because of this but that the YC were very helpful. Call them on vhf 16 and they will advise on anchoring options.
We enjoyed our visit. It is very different to other areas we have cruised. Some areas are popular with Australian, USA and NZ boats but other areas see few visitors. We experienced no problems but did hear of boats that had. The charts of the area tend to be small scale so mk1 eyeball is the main navigational tool.
The area around the Duke of York group, New Ireland and New Hanover is particularly attractive, has good large-scale charts and excellent diving.
We know of boats having repair work done at Madang on the mainland but not in the islands.
Harbour/Anchorages in Papua New Guinea.
The HERMIT ISLES Lat 01°30’92 S Long 145°04’39E
An idyllic remote atoll that is now a marine reserve. This means cruisers are now restricted to anchoring off the village on Luf island, either in the bay to the north (the above waypoint) or in Carola bay to the south depending on which monsoon you arrive in. Carola bay has sand/coral bottom 5-8ms. The north bay is a real problem the fringing reef drops off steeply to 30ms! We found a coral bommie with 6ms at the above waypoint and dropped anchor on it, then snorkelled down to wedge it well in and didn’t shift in spite of 30+ knit gusts.
We entered by the west entrance and found it easy following the transit given on the chart and left via the nw entrance, no transit but reef easily seen, waypoint in entrance lat 01°28’40S long 145°02’24E.
We were met by chief Joe who made us most welcome and provided us with fresh fruit and vegetables. There is well water available for washing but no drinking water, however it rained so much we easily filled our tank. We also traded for fruit, fish and veggies.
The water is clear with good snorkelling but with its new marine reserve status scuba is only allowed with a guide, chief Joe again, at $10us each per dive. Well worth it, best since the Red Sea.
We stayed a week and made a donation towards the new church the village is building of 20$us, it appeared to be expected as were the small gifts we had brought for the chief and his family.
A very enjoyably experience and a good first stop from the Philippines.
Kavieng, New Ireland
Lat 02°34’47S long 150°47’37E
The capital of New Ireland is a slow sleepy town with a couple of reasonably stocked supermarkets, 2 bakeries, a hotel, a TNT office (with photocopier), and email at Alun Becks next door to the Kavieng Hotel but it isn’t cheap 15kina for first half hour then 30kina per half hour.
The north entrance is easy just miss the reefs both sides as you cross the 4m bar. The southern entrance via Steffen strait looks more complex than it is.
The recommended anchorage is between the Malagan Beach Resort and the market wharf in 4-5m sand but it is uncomfy in any N or S winds. We moved to a pool in the reef off Nusalik Island west of the 2-black/white posts, and north of west reef. Very well sheltered and excellent holding in heavy sand, the reef has a sand edge so in the unlikely event you did drag it’s a soft landing!
Diesel by can from the garage. Water is on the government wharf but it is a huge hydrant and tying up there would be a major problem. Didn’t see any other supply but it rained had so we collected rainwater.
Customs are in town at the back of the copra board building.
The Admiralty Isles, Manus island, Lorengau.
Lat 01°56’5S long 147°15’75E ( entrance Seedler Harbour)
An easy entrance with a lit lighthouse! We anchored at Lorengau tooked behind the small marked reef near the wharf. Good holding in 4-5ms mud.
We left the dingy on the beach the local ferries use.
Check in at the government offices, about 10mins walk from the beach. Turn right past the PO and keep going until you reach a low group of buildings. The customs office is around the back and they deal with everything for you. We had been advised to obtain visas before arrival and had no problems. John the customs officer was helpful and friendly. He arranged for Port Authority, Animal Health, and Quarantine officials to visit us together, a very friendly bunch armed with forms. They take after the Aussies for quarantine regulations so we parted with 50kina for rubbish collection, 50kina for boat inspection, and 48kina for 3 months port and light dues valid through out PNG. You have to check in with customs at each port you visit and get clearance to the next port but no trouble with stopping enroute and no further charges.
The shopping was a surprise good range of tinned stuff and frozen meat from Aus and NZ. Water was available but we didn’t need any. Diesel by jerry can from the garage 200ms from the dinghy, 0.99kina/lt. Bank and post office.
We were amazed at how warm and friendly people were but we were warned not to go ashore at night and to keep things off deck and locked up. We had no problems but plenty of visitors to look, chat and trade. English was widely spoken and most signs were in English and pidgin.
This may be the capital of the region but it is a very small town there are a couple o hardware shops and a DHL office.
New Ireland, Ribinitz Harbour
Lat 02°40’22S long 150°36’60E
A large well sheltered anchorage inside the west entrance to Steffen Strait. It is easy to enter with fringing reefs readily seen in spite of the water being cloudy. We anchored in 8m mud. Canoes soon came visiting, they do not get too many visitors so are eager to chat and trade. A good spot if, like us, you are a bit late leaving Kavieng or a bit late entering Steffen Strait. Be warned the chart may indicate a lit channel but apart from the outer reef lighthouse we saw no lights.
New Ireland, English cove.
Lat 04°45’25S long 152°51’50E
Super anchorage in beautiful surroundings but there are crocodiles so no swimming. The reef on the south side of the entrance extends a fair way but is clearly seen. The other side is steep to as is the cove itself. The beach appears to be imminent before 6m anchoring depths are found on the south side, but in reality there is plenty of room. The bottom is mud with coral patches so you may need a couple of attempts to get well in but once in the holding is good. The swell does roll in a bit with SE winds. We didn’t put out a stern anchor and were a bit uncomfy on occasions. It rains a lot here.
Lots of canoes from the nearby island as this is where they obtain fresh water supplies. There are 2 streams at the head of the cove. The northern one is used for washing clothes and the deeper, faster running southerly stream for bathing and collecting freshwater. It is the most wonderful water. So cold! Tastes good too! A good place to fill tanks. We found some locals expecting to be given presents. We insisted on trading and had no problems. Irish cove next door was not feasible when we were there during the SE monsoon but looked to be good for NW monsoon.
New Britain, Put Put Harbour or Rugen.
Lat 04°39’89S Long 152°21’30E
Totally enclosed anchorage with a narrow but easy entrance. Of the white triangular leading marks only one remains. We entered on a bearing of 240T on it clearing dangers well. The entrance is narrow but very steep to and deep 10m least depth. The fringing reef before the entrance is clearly visible. Once inside there are small markers on the reefs and spits. Anchor in mud 8-10m but there are coral patches so several attempts may be required. Holding was good if you are in well but we know of 2 boats that dragged after seeming to be happy for 2 days. The timber company on the north bank of the entrance are very friendly. The timber boat calls irregularly but when in port it anchors in the entrance with lines ashore completely blocking access. It stays for 6-8 days loading up. Check with the timber site.
Water might be available from the timber company or from the Seventh day Adventists Church. No other facilities. Pretty but water not clear and we were warned of small(!) crocodiles.
Duke of York island group.
Makada anchorage
Lat 04°08’06S long 152°26’40E
An easy place to enter. The fringing reef and reef patches can be easily seen. Good holding in sand. Quiet, beautiful with good swimming and diving. We managed to get a copy of the large-scale plan of the Duke of York group and found it useful.
Mioko Island.
Lat 04°13’76S long 152°27’34E
Enter the lagoon by the “east passage” marked on admiralty charts. It is deep, easily avoided reef, and has some shelter in the approach from the prevailing wind up St Georges channel. Once inside skirt the reef and tuck into the NW bay on Mioko Island. This is wonderfully sheltered, has ok holding in sand and beautiful bays and beaches. The diving and snorkelling are excellent. The villagers ashore are welcoming but not pushy however if you want to walk around and visit the ww2 Jap caves you will have a youthful escort, we had a noisy, happy bunch of kids guiding us! Great fun.
We didn’t visit Rabul but instead sat and watched the volcano belching forth great spumes of ash and smoke from here. It was impressive.
Misima Harbour.
Lat 10°41’40S Long 152°50’70E
A narrow entrance marked by white/black and red beacons. We found the red beacon difficult to spot as we approached. The mangrove islands are well seen and the reef table is big and obvious even at high water. Very deep practically until in the entrance.
Water, fuel and shops here. Meat is Australian or NZ frozen. The largest supermarket also offers fax and telephone facilities for yachties but not email. We were again warned not to go ashore at night and to lock up dingys.
The nearest port of entry to Australia so it gets a lot of yachts mainly Aussies. Very handy for checking out and there is no problem with then cruising the Louisiades for a week or two before leaving for Australia. The harbour is narrow and busy. Try to anchor near the head but watch as it shoals off rapidly after the outbuilding over the water. We anchored opposite the first jetty in 11ms mud as it was crowded, 12 boats in! This proved to be good fun as they had canoe races and we were a turning mark, a bit too exciting at times. We had strong SE winds while there and the swell was rolling in making conditions aboard unpleasant at times.
Louisiades Archipelago. Bagaman Island
Lat 11°07’90S Long 152°42’00E
Anchor in 5-10 in sand with coral patches, nearer the village has more sand. A little swell can roll in. Friendly village keen to trade. Lots of yachts stop here. Well water is available, definitely not for drinking. Some walks ashore. Good swimming and snorkelling.
Panasia island
Lat 11°07’95S Long 15°0’14E??
A lovely anchorage with clear water, good snorkelling and diving, although there have been reports of crocodiles at the west end. The entrance through the reef requires good light and copies of Zodiacs’ mud maps. Anchor in the wind shadow under the cliffs in 7-10m sand with some flat bommies. The entrance can be rough in wind over tide conditions. No one around so peace and quiet.
Duchateau islands.
A good anchorage, marked on admiralty chart, to wait for tide or wind to leave the Louisiades or to rest on arrival. The passage out to the west of the islands is easy; hug the reef to avoid the overfalls.
An Aussie boat “Zodiac” who has cruised these islands extensively produces the mud maps with these notes. He is happy for anyone to share them. They are the definitive work on the Louisiades at present!
May to July 2004
Submitted by Andrew Rayner, Yacht Nereus
The eastern islands of PNG form a wonderful cruising ground. The people are lovely, the traditions are absorbing, there is a great diversity of wonderful south seas scenery, the diving is sensational, and you may like us be the only yacht around.
The reason for our solitude seemed to be fears about security. These are misplaced, despite the nonsense in government travel advisories. Port Moresby is certainly dodgy and to be avoided, the larger coastal connurbations on New Guinea such as Lae and Madang possibly so. Elsewhere is fine, though normal care is to be exercised near towns. Our predecessor yachts in Rabaul (2 months before us) and Lorengau (9 months before us) were indeed robbed, but having talked to many local people and being reasonably careful we did not feel especially threatened, despite leaving the boat unattended much of the time.
Crocodiles are widespread, but we heard of no nasty incidents.
The timing of the rainy season alters frequently as you cruise north or south.
English is spoken everywhere but not by everyone. Tok Pisin is not much used in Milne Bay Province, but elsewhere it is, so a pijin phrasebook will be useful, fun anyway.
Both vivax and falciparum malaria are endemic, making it important to carry a few courses of cures as well as prophylaxis. . The towns have reasonable hospitals if always overstretched, surprising in the light of the failure of the government to provide most services in an adequate fashion.
Information
Get your charts before you go, none available in PNG ports. The SE Asia Cruising Guide Vol 2 covers PNG in a skimpy fashion. Ask around in Australia or among cruising yachts for mudmaps of SE PNG, which provide the most useful information, though many sketches are hard to recognise. We found our electronic charts were generally and inconsistently well off datum.
Formalities (as of 2004)
Get visas before departure, ours cost A$133 for the skipper, A$35 for the crew. On arrival you may be asked for a ‘harbours fee’, which will cover all PNG. Overtime may be demanded out of hours, note that government employees stop work at 1606 (sic) each day. At first port of call Quarantine will cost K50 and may confiscate fresh stuff, honey and the usual items. Yachts have to check in with customs in each port of entry and obtain a new clearance, which is free.
Facilities
Fuel is available most major ports, but the wharfs are old and decrepit. In Misima it comes in barrels, in Rabaul right at the top of the bay. In Manus it took us two days to organise the road tanker (which belongs to Grace, the mayor’s wife), the depot and the wharf.
We did not look hard, but noticed nowhere at all which supplied water by hose to a dock.
Banks or ATMs which take credit cards - Westpak and ANZ - were found in Misima, Alotau, Kavieng and Rabaul. Lorengau has only a Bank of the South Pacific which doesn’t, so you’ll need cash there.
There are shops and markets in all ports of entry, PNG frozen chickens recommended. Hardware is pretty limited. Outside towns, crews will be trading for their fruit and vegetables, possibly fish and crustaceans too, so must carry plenty of trade goods. Fishing and diving gear, books and picture magazines, and reading glasses are at a premium.
Only from Kiriwina, Trobriands, did we find notable artefacts, though there are a few attempts elsewhere. The Kiriwinians make superb carvings, sold for substantial cash prices, though low enough when the time taken to make them is allowed for. Usual negotiation ends up at about half or one third of the asking price. Kiriwina and New Georgia produce the Pacific’s best work in my view.
We found no bookshops. Yachts should get whatever literature they can on the region before leaving, including if possible Malinowski’s Argonauts of the Western Pacific (1922), which details the amazing Kula Ring. Divers need Bob Halstead’s book, The Dive Sites of PNG, and his Coral Sea Reef Guide.
Navigation
For boats accustomed to the Pacific, there is not much that is different, except that information and accuracy is scarce and reefs are twice as common.
Charted marks are conspicuous by their absence, and we did not find a single light operational. Nor did we manage to contact any shore station on ch 16 except Misima once.
Weather forecasts and faxes for the area are near useless. GRIBs available through Sailmail should be helpful, though they show only the windspeed, direction and isobars, but no other features. We found them fairly inaccurate as we got into lower latitudes.
Some stops in PNG
Misima. The only employer, a gold mine was closing in 2004, so I expect the port to run down a bit. Three or four basic shops, fuel, a Westpak bank, one guesthouse which will do meals, room for about eight yachts in the narrow harbour. Quarantine man is known as Lennie the Lifter.
The Louisiades. An ideal cruising area with endless anchorages, much visited by Australian boats and therefore less unspoilt than elsewhere. Try to meet villagers off the beaten track, and be ready for considerable expertise in extracting your goodies at the lowest trading value. It is not necessary to check into Misima before visiting the Louisiades, the officials do not seem to mind a large time discrepancy from the last port.
The Engineer Group (Tubetube Islands). Seldom visited, delightful people. Hummock Island has a good anchorage which requires a passage through shallows from either side, best to get a pilot from a passing canoe. Vicious noseeums in the village, which is built on sand.
Alotau. Not the finest anchorage, bow anchor on a steep mud slope with a stern anchor out will be needed. Several large shops, net, three banks with ATMs. Plenty of men from Trobriands hawking carvings, often of the finest quality.
Dobu. Small anchorage in sand S of the W tip of the island. A major Kula centre and large mission school.
Kiriwina. An indifferent anchorage in the north. We sailed up the east coast and anchored with local advice (which is necessary) off Kaibola. Ask for Lukas, who will take care of you. Also Emanuel and his family right on the beach by the school. Avoid the old chief’s sons, Buonamata and Buki, who try to be first in line, but are not trustworthy. The carvers will soon queue up, bring substantial funds if you want to buy their wares. We found it easy to spend several thousand Kina! Milamala, the yam festival around late June early July, is worth a journey, and the island has a new festival in the first week of July too.
English Harbour, New Ireland. Worth a stop for its history, a lovely quiet anchorage now.
Rabaul. Forget Rabaul, it will not recover from the devastating 1994 eruption of its twin volcanoes, either side of the harbour. Part is being slowly rebuilt, but the municipal focus has shifted to Kokopo, 20 kilometers south. The Yacht Club continues to struggle on amongst the ruins of Rabaul, heaven knows why, and may be the best anchorage in the north west season. In the south east season stop off Kokopo, or in the shallow bay between two islets three miles to the east off Rapopo Resort, where Brian Martin was about to install two moorings for cruising yachts. Shops, customs, market and so on except for boat fuel are in Kokopo now.
Lorengau, Seeadler Harbour, Manus. Most necessities are here, including an internet facility in the small guesthouse and a nice little hotel, but the place is very run down. It is hard to envisage the hoards of Imperial forces of Japan and later a million American servicemen who passed through and the harbour crowded with warships. The anchorage in Lorengau was, contrary to advice in the Pilot, fine, though we were not there in the north west season. Because of the boat robbery in 2003 we were frequently warned about danger of theft. The village family on the SE shore of the bay, near the Mayor’s office, will help with security. Their houses appear to be constructed on foundations of wartime scrap metal.
Hermit Islands. The charts are conflicting and none of them is correct. The detailed electronic chart showed the group 1 ½ miles too far east. This discrepancy was reduced on the next scale, and again on Admiralty 3832, but still three quarters of a mile wrong. However this was the only place where a pass (from the east) was well beaconed. There is one village, on Luf, full of two hundred delightful people who will help yachts to anchor and provide veg and fruit. It is SDA territory, so clams, lobsters, mud crabs and coconut crabs are easily available. Anchorage is either on coral spurs, or for larger boats, in 30 metres on mud on W or E of village. There are a few other anchorages in the lagoon, a lovely one inside the islands on the S of the reef.
Some rules
If you have a question ask as many people as possible. Most answers will conflict, but you may be able to detect a consensus;
Do not think that what is promised or expected will happen at any specified time, if at all;
Have the patience of Job when dealing with marine bureaucracy. Officials are unavailable or slow, and paperwork is extensive and irrational. Government has largely broken down and this shows all the way down the scale;
Be alert for attempts to make unofficial charges, which means understanding the charges in the first place. The official concerned may not have been paid for a few months;
Always talk to the boss;
Expect nearly everybody to be kind, charming and very helpful;
Making local friends provides a great degree of additional security. It doesn’t have to cost much to be generous with welcome presents for both children and adults;
Don’t expect to find charts or anything else for boats.
The Louisiade Archipelago
Nick Halsey, Port Officer, Southport, Queensland
“Water Music” Catalina Morgan 440: Hull # 5, Australian Registered
The Louisiade Archipelago is a string of island groups which extend from the eastern end of mainland Papua New Guinea a distance of 225 nautical miles and lie generally between 10°5S and 11°5S. One of the main attractions of the Louisiades as a cruising ground is its lack of development. Island life is essentially subsistence living. Although PNG does have rich mineral resources, the Louisiades have little. The collection of Beche-De-Mer (sea slugs) for export was a regular cash crop but due to overfishing the season remains “closed” has not re-opened for several years as a consequence of little cash several Trade Stores on some islands have closed. Coconut plantations and copra were also once a source of income, but little now happens in these islands. The gold mine which once operated on Misima Island closed about 3 years and as a result the Customs facility there is now closed. The nearest Customs port is Samarai 130 miles westward or on the mainland at the port of Alotau (Milne Bay Provence).
Most believe the best time to visit the Louisiades is in September when the high pressure cells over central Australia are not as deep and therefore the Trade Winds are lighter. The return journey can be as late as early November when there is a chance of NE winds and before the cyclone season which ends in April. We chose to depart and return to Townsville although many yachts depart from Cairns, which being further north is closer to PNG. We carried charts, both paper and electronic with a computer back up system. As there are no up to date cruising guides for the Louisiades but were able to gather old copies and collections of sketches of anchorages. These had been passed on from other yachties with hand written notes and some providing GPS locations provided useful information.
Our supplies had to last for 10 weeks and we had to carry sufficient “Trade Goods” to be able to barter for fresh fruit and vegetables. We also carried gifts and donations for schools and hospitals. The quantities of stores were based on our previous cruising experience. We had approximately 45 frozen parcels of various meals which Susie froze and vacuum packed. In addition 12 jars of home canned meals which are ideal “passage food” as they require little preparation under way. Added to this we had enough provisions to be able to provide for breakfasts and lunches for the planned 10 weeks away. We did not factor in any fish or crayfish which we may or may not be able to either catch or trade.
We cleared Australian Customs on 26 August and anchored at Palm Island for the night. The next morning we sailed via Palm Passage. The first day we were well reefed, making 6.5 to 7 knots into a fresh SE wind but becoming more ESE with a 2.5-3.0mt easterly swell. During the night the wind increased to 25 knots from the ESE.
Early on the second day we decided to head for Samarai Island instead of the more windward route through the Dejei Radi Pass at the eastern end of the Louisiades. The 20 degree change in heading made life aboard more comfortable and gave us a slightly shorter route. The winds continued into our third day, mostly 18-23 knots but eventually shifted back to where they were supposed to be in the SE, giving us a broad reach as we headed towards the PNG barrier reef. The charts warned of big swells near the reef, in anticipation we closed up the boat and donned life jackets, while we went from over 1500 metres under the keel to 30 metres over a distance of a few miles, fortunately the swell direction ran parallel to the reef and there was no noticeable change in swell.
The last of the reefs in both genoa and mainsail were shaken out in an effort to make fast passage to anchor before dark. We missed our target by 20 minutes, as the quick onset of darkness made it impossible to judge our distance off shore when we entered the bay, even with radar we didn’t the confidence. We motored the few miles to the island of Samarai where there are some navigation lights and the lights of the small town enabled us to anchor. We anchored at 8:30 pm in about 12 metres on a rocky bottom with dubious holding, after three days and twelve hours at sea, having sailed 558 miles, making an average speed of 6.6 knots.
Due to our weekend arrival we moved to Pearl Farm on nearby Sariba Island before returning to Samarai to clear customs on Monday morning. At Sariba Island It did not take long before the first canoe approached with people wanting to say hello and offering us fruit. We were invited ashore to watch the soccer in a knock out series played between local villages. They play seriously and hard but lack the fouls and theatricals associated with modern soccer elsewhere. The ladies played netball, others played darts, while the children played marbles. The whole community seemed to have a wonderful time. We noticed a distinct male and female segregation, with the females selling produce, mostly betel nut, coconuts and sweet potato. A considerable number of dogs of indeterminate breed and in appalling condition wandered in and about the people. Their condition was particularly disconcerting to us both. The local school is thriving and draws from several adjacent villages some of which are Uniting Church and others are Seventh Day Adventist (SDA). The SDA people do not chew Betel Nut which stains teeth anything from red to black.
The islands are very verdant, jungle covered hills and mountains. Lots of colour from different foliage, frangipanis in flower and other interesting trees with gorgeous fluffy pink flowers attached to branches and of course lots of coconut trees. The soil appears to be very fertile and this was further demonstrated when the kids listed off all the fruits and vegetables they grow in their gardens. The colour and the clarity of the water is vibrant against the verdant backdrop. We can see the bottom at depths of 15mts in beautiful blue water becoming more brilliant pale turquoise as the reefs shallow.
Having cleared Customs we were anxious to head east towards the Louisiades but strong SE winds kept us in Milne Bay Provence for a few more days. At last the ESE wind started to ease so we commenced our eastward journey motor-sailing much of the way to Pitt Bay on Basilaki Island, although it was a recommended anchorage we found it very rolly. Having enjoyed the people of Sariba Island we found the local villagers demanding but we did give them one of our soccer balls. We had bought several soccer balls and netballs to give away to villages and schools, together with school packs we had made up containing exercise books, pens, pencils, sharpeners, erasers and National Geographic magazines.
Hummock Island in the Engineer Group was an absolute delight. These people were the nicest we met in PNG. They had great pride in their island and village which they kept clean and even had marked out a main street with shrubs. We met many of the people from the 20 or so families that call this place home. They manage to survive with little water and only two storage tanks holding about 10,000 gallons. They have so little, but appear happy and healthy. Many came aboard for tea and biscuits and to spend time chatting or trading fruit or crayfish.
The winds remained from the SE but eased as we motor-sailed to Ltamarina Island in the Conflict Group. This island is uninhabited and this gave us a chance to burn 16 days’ worth of non-bio-degradable rubbish ashore and fillet a 14 lb. Kingfish on the beach without making a mess on the boat. The water is crystalline, and the snorkelling wonderful. The next leg to the De Boyne group was motored in absolutely flat conditions with little or no wind. We anchored behind Nivani Island and went ashore on the south side of Panapompom Island where we gave the village pastor an old genoa. I am sure they will make good use of it as this is the area renowned for building sailing canoes.
The Calvados Group is considered to be the heart of the Louisiades, where we made anchorage at Pana Wina Island. The village magistrate is well known for getting yachties to help with work in his village, which usually involves donations of goods and money. We did help by fixing leaking plumbing fixtures and traded with those who came in canoes wanting to trade fruit and vegetables, accompanied by their children. Susie is very popular handing out balloons and lollies to the children. We gifted one of our school packs to the small elementary school and watched shells being prepared to make Baggi necklaces. It is time consuming process and used or gifted in ceremonies, such as marriages.
Independence Day was fast approaching and we planned to spend the festivities on Nimoa Island where there is a Catholic Mission School and Hospital. We had donations for the hospital of sheets, pillowcases and towels from the laundry owner in Ayr, and we had also purchased medicines, dressings, new born nappies and blankets etc. Now that these goods had been distributed our waterline is at long last starting to be seen again.
The Mass at the church with all the children and many adults dressed in traditional costume was wonderful, as was the singing, marching, speeches and soccer games that followed. Three of the local sailing canoes put on an impromptu race. I was fortunate enough sail in one of the vessels, but gee it was scary to see the amount of twist that occurs in the canoe hull, let alone the connection to the outrigger. Tacking and gybing is done by reversing the direction of the boat and taking the rudder and the tack of the sail to the opposite ends. Truly amazing to see, fast sailing, with lots of bailing. These large sailing canoes are used for inter-island people and freight transport. There are some fibreglass banana boats powered with 40hp Yamaha outboards, but who has the money for the petrol? The Nimoans’were very gentle and happy people as well as being excellent sailors.
There are a huge range of anchorages to choose from and depending on whether your interests lie in fishing, snorkelling or joining in with village life, you can always find something to like. For the next month we sailed from island to island within the Calvados Group often anchoring in 20 metres of water where we found less coral to cause the chain to rumble and snag. These islands are much drier than Milne Bay Provence, and fresh water is scarce. The villagers’ gardens were suffering, with little on offer beyond a few coconuts, bananas, limes, pawpaw and sweet potato. We traded rice and sugar, soap and fishing gear for fruit and vegetables, torches, batteries, clothing or cloth for crayfish. On several occasions we caught fish, much of it we gave to the villagers.
It can become tiresome as canoes constantly arrive soon after sunrise, and continue until after dark. Mostly the islanders and particularly the children are very happy and entertaining, they are polite and courteous living a very simple life in a place that provides just enough to survive, however some islanders see the white man’s yacht as a “gift shop” to be exploited.
Prior to this trip I had little experience with Winlink and can commend it to any Ham operator; the base stations do a fantastic job. I am told that Sailmail is as good for those who are not amateurs. Having email capability in a place like the Louisiades was fantastic. We did take out a 2 month contract for our SatPhone but that was strictly for emergencies. Cell phone and internet coverage is limited to a couple of the larger towns nearer to the mainland.
The cyclone season was approaching and we monitored the weather maps, choosing to cross the PNG barrier reef near Duchateau Island, heading SSW towards Australia. The first day was a little fresh and lumpy but settled down to a steady SE 15-18 knots beam reaching at 7-8 knots. We reefed a little more at night to give the off watch a better sleep conditions, which slowed our average speed slightly. We made our landfall at Magnetic Island, having entered the Australian Barrier Reef via the unlit and un-marked Magnetic Passage. Our passage was 3 days and 12hours, having sailed 598 miles, at an average speed of about 6.9 knots.
On reflection of our trip, we think that Milne Bay Provence, the Engineer Group and the Conflict Groups were highlights, where we should have spent more time and less time in the Calvados group of the Louisiade Archipelago. However, having said that; we many good memories of one of the few remaining easily accessible cruising grounds to Australians.
Information provided in 1996 by Hugh Garnham - yacht Glensheil VII
O.C.C. members might be interested in some of the facts about the Louisiades, as lots of current information is incorrect.
P. KG. has a large number of ports of entry, but official consular information only lists Samurai at the western end of the Archipeligo, bounding the China Strait, as the nearest port of entry. This port has the disadvantage of being to leeward of the prevailing S.E. Trades. The island of Misima has only two ports and one of these, Begoia Harbour can be used as a port of entry. However, P.N.G. time applies, and don 't expect to get clearance the day you arrive, or indeed, on the day you want to clear.
However, Damos, one of three customs officials on the island was most helpful once we tracked him down, and gave him several beers in the cockpit and one of two 20kg. Spanish Mackeral we had caught that day.
Visas are necessary and ours cost 133 kina for the skipper and 13 kina each tourists visa for the crew. Lots of debate was necessary for the crew to only pay the tourist rate, and recent reports suggest the P.N-G, Government is trying to enforce the 133 kina figure for all crew. The visas are valid for two months and are easily extended for another two months for the same fees.
When departing, there is a departure tax of 15 kina per person including the skipper and tax stamps must be purchased and placed and stamped in each passport. On the day we had arranged to leave we went to the Post Office to buy five stamps and they only had two! The rest could be flown in from Alatou tomorrow, maybe? Bill then suggested that as we had an ill crew member whom we needed to get back to Australia a.s.a.p., perhaps something could be done. After thirty minutes in the back of the office, out came the official bearing three more stamps! Moral; buy them when clearing in.
In fact, many yachts clear in and out on the one visit, then cruise to their hearts content before moving on. A lot of yachts, en route to or from the Solomons, spend as much time in the area as they like and never go near a port of entry-
The P.N.G. Government is in a sad financial state, and the few government officials in the area have mostly been removed and there is little or no government infrastructure. We had been told categorically that bottled gas was not available at Bwagoia, but it is readily available, although it is a wise precaution to have a number of fittings, as the filling station does not have fittings to suit every type ofbottle-
Distillate is available when in stock at about 1 kina per litre, but it is not always available. When sold out, you, like everybody else, have to wait for the next supply ship to arrive. However, we arranged for a guided tour of the gold mine and were able to buy 40 litres from them at 60 cents per litre, but it was grudgingly sold to us.
Water is on tap in the market, but is most certainly not potable The Manager of the guest house, David, should be everyones first contact. He can arrange showers, laundry, and water from his own tanks which certainly appeared to be o.k. However, you must provide your own containers. He arranges evening meals and beer for about 10 kina. He also made the use of his phone available for reverse charge calls (dial 016), subject to the whims of P.N.G. Telecom.
The Post Office has one public phone, which takes phone cards, but they had been out of stock for three weeks. However, by dialling 0176, reverse charge calls can be made if the exchange answers.
One large "supermarket" has in fact a surprising range of basic foodstuffs at not unreasonable prices, and the day after we left, one similar sized cash and carry bulk foodstore, operated by Koreans, was to open, and our inspection revealed an even greater range of goods. There is a daily native market, where you can purchase fresh bananas, yams, paw paws, lemons etc. A bakery provides delicious bread daily, except when we were to leave because they were out of flour and the ship hadn 't arrived, and they didn 't know when it would.
We found a trip on the mini bus or mini truck well worth while. The fare is 2 kina out and 2 kina back and they run to all the villages on the north coast for the same price, so the trip to the furthest village is the best value. They all leave from the market place, but don 't look for any bus stop signs.
There is an airport with daily flights to Alatoua and Port Moresby, but no transport to the terminal, but it is on the road to the mine, with plenty of traffic, and two days before we left, David, at the guest house, took delivery of his car and I 'm sure would provide transport-
Bwagoia Harbour itself has a narrow entrance with a port and starboard beacon, the starboard one on entering being lit with a white flashing light. Anchoring in the harbour is tight, with little space available, but the holding is good in mud and the bay shoals rapidly past the public jetties which are always crammed with inter- island boats.
Our passage to the Duchateaux Islands, just inside the south west entrance to the Calvados Lagoon, took four days and 10 hours and we anchored at last light. These Islands, three in number, are uninhabited, very picturesque with sandy beaches, fringing coral and luxurious tropical vegetation.
We spent a day there, then sailed to Bagaman Island, where we met Samuel Abel, the first of many P.N.G. people. English is spoken by almost all the inhabitants, as well as Pidgeon English and the local dialect, which could be one of over 700 variations, Anchorages are to be found in almost every island in the chain, many less than 5 miles sail apart, and almost every bay has a native village with anything from two to twenty families in residence-
Trading is the preferred means of exchange- It is amazing how so little in the way of western goods means so much to them- Stick tobacco and cigarettes are high on the list, as are soap, sugar, rice, fish hooks, clothing of any kind, especially teeshirts, none of which need be new. In return you will be offered drinking coconuts, crayfish, fish, paw paws, mangoes, pineapples, eggs, yams and taro, a native cabbage! Nimoa is the most easterly island usually visited by yachts, and supports a large mission, school and cottage hospital with a well stocked store.
Distillate is also available here- If asking for bread and being told none is available, don 't be deterred, as bread rolls (delicious) are plentiful, but not regarded as bread.
The largest island in the group, as well as the most easterly in the lagoon, is Tagula, known locally as Sudest. It supports a government station, Badis, on the north west tip, easily recognisable by the western style of building and the remains of a once substantial jetty, partly destroyed by a cyclone several years ago. Due to budget constraints (the Government is basically broke) the only Government presence now is the school inspector. There is a quite serviceable airstrip, but it now no longer enjoys any scheduled flights. Bread is also baked there, but once again, no flour, so no bread.
The reason not many yachts visit Tagula is the relative paucity of anchorages, its south east orientation, right into the trades, and the reef strewn approaches, not all of which are accurately charted, demanding a lot of masthead eyeball navigation.
We were intending to leave through the Deijei Passage, the most easterly exit (and entrance) to the lagoon, which is only three miles from Dunaga Bay, which is a very pleasant bay, a good anchorage and lovely people. We were especially lucky, as we arrived in time for a two day celebration of St. Anne, the Patron Saint of the local school. We were looked upon as honoured guests and given V.I.P. treatment
Leaving at 3pm on Saturday the 3rd. August we had a marvellous sail back to Australia passing through Hydrographer 's Passage in the Great Barrier Reef en route to clear customs at Mackay, in just over three and a half days and 530 miles. We overnighted at Scawfell Island inside the reef, before clearing customs at Mackay- After three days we began the long haul back to our home port Hobart, via the Gold Coast where we have left Glenshiel VII until January 1997 and more favourable winds and temperatures for going south.