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Puerto Lucia yacht Club 02°21.49 'S 80°22.85 'W
Puerto Lucia 02°13.10 'S 80°55.28 'W
Manta 00°56.50 ' 80°43.36 'W
Bahia de Caraquez 00°38.15 'S 80°24.56 'W
Bahia Caraquez Waiting Anchorage 00°35.80 'S 80°26.83 'W
Entry requirements
Entry Procedures to Bahia See http://www.puertoamistadecuador.com/Entry%20Procedure.htm"
New regulations: Recently there have been some unhelpful changes in Ecuador. All foreign yachts are now required to employ an agent to clear in and out of every Ecuadorian port. The going rate for yachts is about US$150-200 in addition to the administration charges levied by the authorities. If you go to a port where there is no agent who deals with yachts then you may have to pay $1000, the price for a ship. Note too the agent does not deal with your immigration and you still have to go to the Port Captain to apply for an exit zarpe. A list of the last 10 ports is needed and passage plans with two-hourly waypoints must be submitted with a requirement to report any deviation whilst on passage (Ecuador claims 200 mile territorial waters). As we write, the six month Customs rule for the yacht is still only local to Salinas. There does not appear to be any law to support this restriction, so hopefully it will not spread to the rest of the country. However, with the current state of uncertainty one cannot be sure. Although it is a very nice place to be, we cannot recommend Ecuador as a cruising destination at present.
Prior to our leaving Ecuador we, along with the Austrian couple aboard the yacht Muktuk, had campaigned vigorously against the introduction of rules requiring the use of a shipping agent in every port and restrictions on fuel purchase. Between us we lobbied all the relevant government ministers, the President of the Ecuadorian Sailing Federation, the Admiral in charge of port administration and ship movement and the tourist agencies. Together we also instigated a press campaign that culminated in a four page spread in the Sunday supplement starkly titled The Yachts Will Not Return. Whether or not this had any effect on the government we can’t say, but we’re pleased that it has been announced that it is no longer a requirement for yachts to use an agent and once again cruisers can check in and out directly with the Port Captain and any necessary paperwork can be completed on line prior to arrival. Cruisers can also obtain fuel at the local prices and fill jerry cans at garages. The length of time a yacht can be kept in the country before attracting customs duty has not been resolved, but the latest proposal is some kind of temporary import permit for a number of years for anyone staying over three months.
Importing spares
Fedex were great in the USA but hopeless in Ecuador - between them and Ecuadorean Customs it took a month after despatch for the parts to reach me.
At Puerto Lucia marina, Salinas, Ecuador. We were boarded by a customs official and a minion from the Port Captain’s office and were somewhat dismayed to be told that the boat could only remain in Ecuador for six months. This was apparently a new ruling, but as it later transpired only a local one to the Salinas region. The place is noteworthy for its boat hoist, onshore boat storage facility and good repair yard under the management of a North American. However, it is very over-priced (we have just heard an additional $200/month ‘liveaboard’ charge has been introduced), soulless and the water is a stinking mess of oil and gas bubbling up from the seabed below.
Radio and communications
It has also been decreed that foreign yachts cannot buy fuel at the subsidised prices available to everyone else. The problem is that nowhere sells fuel at the full price, so it effectively means that you cannot officially buy fuel. Foreigners can fill up their cars at garage prices, so it’s only yachts that are being victimised. We are told that the fuel dock in Salinas is now closed. We are not allowed to buy fuel in containers from garages, so people are buying on the black market and the yacht club here is supplying diesel and gasoline at inflated prices. We are exploring the possibility of obtaining a permit to purchase in containers. Currently our application is being ‘processed’ by the bureaucrats, which we are told will take 2-3 weeks.
Puerto Lucia yacht Club
The marina is easy to enter with a safe approach from the north. Anchor between the end of the jetty and the starboard hand buoy. A launch will come out to assist you and arrange for officials to come on board. The rules for visiting yachts have changed in the last two weeks (Feb 2009). One has to employ an agent at a cost of US$150, then pay all of the ancillary charges such as light dues, immigration, port health, etc - total cost US$270 for entry plus another US$70 for the zarpe to leave.
The water in the marina is currently very dirty indeed, with both oil and effulent, and the surge means that yachts bounce about quite a lot, especially at high water. This, coupled with the poor internet access - the BBC is a blocked site! - and the US$5 per day liveaboard charge, makes it an expensive place to visit, despite the facilities offered such as the travel hoist which will lift boats up to 20 tons. Yesterday (12 Feb 2009) a Dutch boat was refused permission to buy diesel.
All of this is a great pity, as both Salinas and La Libertad and pleasant and friendly places. In the latter especially there are many small ferretarias - hardware shops - where one can find almost anything. Engine spares can be located at Casa de la Tobera on 6 de marzo 2515 in Guayaquil. They are stockists for Bosch, Yanmar, Perkins etc and the owner´s son, Jorje, speaks excellent English.
There are two good supermarkets, one within walking distance, where a great variety of produce are available. In addition la Libertad has excellent and fascinating local markets for fruit, vegetables, meat and fish. the loca people are warm and friendly, but a knowledge of some Spanish is essential, as very little English or other languages are spoken. It is a safe place to walk about, and gives one a real taste of what Ecuador is like.
Travel to other parts of the country is relatively easy, if rather long-winded and adventurous, either by bus from the terminal terrestre in Guayaquil (two hours away by coach) or by air from Guayaquil. There are regular flights from Salinas to Quito.
Extract from article in OCC September 2008 Newsletter from Linda Lane Thornton
Our destination after that was Salinas, just north of the Rio Guayas in southern Ecuador. We’d decided to head directly for Salinas as we wanted to cruise north later in the year. The passage here, though, was quite hard work, beating to windward – which we’d expected – but in winds gusting up to 25+kn, which we hadn’t expected. Although only 700 miles as the crow flies, it took us 7 days and 800+ miles, what with all the tacking.
On 9th June we crossed the line, with Teddy taking on the role of King Neptune, and Japet the Koala – a gift from Jan and Peter Metherall of Penyllan after my transit with them – as his henchman. The contents of the Islay Malt disappeared, but I don’t think I can accuse Teddy of that.
Having emailed the Puerto Lucia Yacht Club (PLYC) and the authorities in Guayaquil 48 hours before arrival, as was indicated in the information we had looked at on the PLYC website, we arrived at about 2200 and anchored about two cables off the entrance in 5m. There is a white light, flashing every 10s, at the end of the breakwater, which makes it easy to identify at night. In addition, there is a green buoy on the port side of the entrance (IALA B here – Red Right Returning).
Next morning a launch came out from PLYC and asked us to anchor further in, leading the way for us. We were then taken ashore to the office and completed the requisite forms before being taken back out to Coromandel Quest to await the arrival of the officials. We spent the day tidying up the boat and at about 1500 we were boarded by representatives of Customs, Port Authority and Immigration. The formalities took about 20 minutes; we were given entry visas for 90 days, Coromandel Quest for six months. We were told that we would have to go to the Port Authority in Salinas to pay US$50 light dues and were told to be sure to get a receipt, otherwise we could be charged light dues in every port we visited. They then left and the marina staff guided us to a stern-to mooring, tying up the lies very efficiently.
The marina charged us US$15 for the officials’ taxi fares, but no other entry charges were levied. Having only just read Graham and Avril Johnson’s account of their stay in Salinas in the March 2008 edition of the Newsletter (which has only just reached us – 5 July), I can only thank them for their hard work in making entry so easy. Yes, PLYC is expensive, but the facilities are excellent. The water is obviously much cleaner than when Dream Away was here and the swimming pool, gym, sauna and jacuzzi are most welcome.
Apart from the cost (US$400 per month for a 35ft yacht), my two complaints are about the hit-and-miss nature of the WiFi and internet connections and the weird US$5 per day liveaboard charge. Apart from that it is safe, shops and supermarkets are within easy walking distance, the locals warm, friendly and most helpful with our Spanish and bus connections are very good.
The cinema at El Paseo, about 15 minutes walk from the marina, shows both English and American films and we went to see the latest Indiana Jones movie there. It’s probably cheaper to have lunch out than to make it yourself; the record so far is US$1.50 each for a three course almuerzo and the beer cost as much as lunch.
The Malecon or promenade in Guayaquil was brilliant and the archaeological exhibition at the Museo Antropologico y Arte Contemporaneo magic. We’ve spent two weeks doing some of the jobs that needed doing – like re-varnishing all of the interior woodwork, for which the climate here is excellent.
Our plans now are to have Coromandel Quest slipped and left on the hard here while we tour South America and return home to visit the folks, then cruise north before heading west at the beginning of 2009. Puerto Lucia web site: http://www.puertolucia.com.ec
1) Information Submitted by Ian Jenkins - Pen Azen
2) Date November 2003
3) Harbour or Area Covered Include Lat & Long Puerto Lucia, Salinas, Ecuador (Web site: www.puertolucia.com.ec) 02°13.01’S 080°55.28’W
4) Suitability and Attraction for Yachts Only marina in the 1680m between Panama & Iquique, Chile. 50T travel lift. Good security
5) Marinas, Berthing or Anchorage The marina entrance is at 02°13.01’S 080°55.28’W A white buoy is found 1400m due N. We found the channel from the buoy had a least depth of 3.6m. The eastern end of the marina breakwater has a Fl lighthouse (white). Leave this breakwater close to starboard (channel is marked to port) and turn 90deg to Starboard to enter the marina. Tie up on the fuel berth which is also the reception dock. Ample depth is to be found in the marina. With a boat over 40ft Would advise against using the pontoons particularly in a swell. Pontoons (not the best), Medmoor (good), Anchorage (good)
6) Entry Ports Salinas
7) Formal Requirements for Yachts Entering/Departing:
a) from/to same country Zarpe from Capitania
b) from/to abroad Zarpe from Capitania
c) visa requirements
8) Location/Existence of:
a) harbour master Harbourmaster VHF Ch.19
b) customs/immigration Immigration - La Liberdad, Cnr.of Calle Principal. Visas are free. Departure tax $15
c) health authorities Health - not required
d) police Police - not known
9) Control of Foreign Yachts All yachts must report to the Capitania Maritima on El Malecon in Salinas (about $6 taxi ride)
10) Attitude of Officials to Visiting Yachtsmen Welcoming and efficient (but usual lengthy procedure)
11) Repair/Hauling Facilities 50T travel lift. Excellent repair facilities under George Stewart, a Canadian (email: ystec@sl.telconet.net). There are others, quality unknown. Also, Volvo Agent and Electronics Specialist
12) Sailing Directions or Charts Use US Sailing Directions (en route) West Coast of South America 200 and B.A. Chart 2799
13) Cruising Guide and where Obtainable. Include Phone and/or E-Mail No cruising guide
14) Port Radio Services VHF Ch.19 for Marina
15) Weather Forecasts None local
16) Yacht Club(S) Puerto Lucia Yacht Club - the Gerente is Snr Galo Ortiz, very welcoming and helpful.
17) Other Facilities:
drinking water Non potable, by hose. Potable can be delivered to the dock in 5 gallon bottles. If relying on your water-maker arrive with full tanks as natural gas and oil in harbour voids use of watermakers
fuel gas
(propane)/gaz Calor gas propane bottle was refilled by the marina chandlers None bank At the El Paseo Mall, 400m walk from marina Bank & 2 ETMs
shops/market El Paseo Mall
restaurants/hotels Good choice in Salinas
post office/telephones including mobile facilities PO in Salinas - Avenida General Enrique y Calle Galapagos or ask at the 5* hotel Barcelo Colon Miramar (few blocks from Capitania)
internet cafes El Paseo Mall best mailing address Senor Galo Ortiz, for Yacht xyz, Puerto Lucia Yacht Club, Salinas, Ecuador
showers Yes
laundry Yes, a $2 taxi ride towards Salinas on main road, just beyond the Colegio Rubio (a large pink & white Church on your left) laundry on right about one block further. For an extra $1 ask for 'Domicilo ' and they will deliver laundry back to marina in evening
transport/air services Buses to Guayaquil (2.5hrs) and Quito (9hrs) both with International Airports. Local airport flights to Quito.
medical facilities/hospital Brand new hospital (Nov.2003) opened 200m walk from Yacht Club. Dentist in La Libertad – Dr. Hugo Palacios, Avenida 9 de Octubre 520, Centro Comercial Olimpo. Tel: 2-785387.
18) Recommendations or Warnings
Security in the marina was excellent - armed guards at night. By day, security was not a concern in the local towns (a woman could go to the market by herself in a collectivo (multi-passenger taxi). At night, travel by taxi. The Yacht Club will call a taxi for you. 19) Other Information – please include here general impressions, opinions, comments or any other matter which might be of use to those visiting. PLYC is a private club with good facilities which are available to visiting yachts for a temporary membership fee. (It is owned by Snr. Ricard Palau after whose daughter Lucia, who lives in England, the marina/club is named) There are usually 4 or 5 foreign flagged vessels on the hard working on their boats.
The climate between June and December is perfect for that purpose - dry, warm, overcast and therefore not too hot, cool enough at night to need a blanket. Local workers are to be found who service yachts and motor boats in PLYC and the Salinas YC in Salinas ( which doesn’t take visitors ). Volvo agent in Guayaquil: ECUAIRE - Volvo Penta Div. Manager is Ivan F. Juez. 10.5 Via a la Costa, Guayaquil. Email: ijuez@ecuaire.com Tel: 593-4-287 255 Travel Lift: PLYC has a 50T travel lift in good condition. However the lifting dock is difficult to fender against and you should try to come out and go in on the top of a spring tide on a day without swell. Ask the lift operator to gather all the marineros together (they are very willing) to help fend off. Once ashore, we were well chocked off with water and electiricty available. However, we were ashore between June and November.
Between November and March gales in the N Pacific can create N swells which, in an El Nino year, have delivered green water over the sea wall. Cost: 2003. $168 covered both in and out but check web site for latest. We were very happy to be in PLYC and to leave our boat there for 4 months whilst we travelled back to the UK and inland. As a starting point to sail to the Galapagos it is much preferable to Panama City - 600miles of glorious reach with a favourable current.
Bahia Caraquez In case you should ever come this way again, or any of your correspondents, you may be interested in the following:
There 's a marina at Bahia called Puerto Amistad run by a couple I first met in Cartagena in 2003 - Tripp Martin and Maye. They 've since married and now have a young daughter though their own relationship is a bit of an on-off affair.
The marina is like several in the western Caribbean - a restaurant with showers, internet access, dinghy dock and moorings. You can just stay at anchor as I did and pay a dinghy fee but the out-flowing current is quite strong and brings down all sorts of weed from cleaning operations on prawn farms farther up the river. The weed can catch around the chain and add a lot to drag on the anchor.
Tripp is an official yacht agent (their use is currently obligatory in Ecuador), though check his paperwork carefully as any inaccuracies may cause problems later.
I had to import spares from Edson (the original included a mild steel plate in a very inaccessible location that rusted through just outside Bahia, resulting in entry with emergency tiller steering). Fedex were great in the USA but hopeless in Ecuador - between them and Ecuadorean Customs it took a month after despatch for the parts to reach me.
Some cruisers leave their boats on the moorings for long periods while they travel overland in South America. For those wanting to do this the facility is reasonable with a drier climate than Panama and cheaper than other places in Ecuador. It 's also OK for a short trip to Quito or for those wanting an intermediate stop on the way to the Galapagos (I didn 't having visited in 2003) or other places in the Eastern South Pacific - but try very hard to ensure freedom from the need for imports or you 'll suffer an extended stay!