Flying Fish Articles

Apra Harbour 13:26.9N/144.40.1E – 13°26.90'N, 144°40.10'E

Tom Jackson, 02 August 2012

GUAM

13:26.9N/144.40.1E, entrance to the anchorage and mooring area


Geographically, the island of Guam is part of the Northern Marianas, though it is politically and economically separate. The island is in an area which regularly generates typhoons, from which there is no very good shelter for yachts apart from one mangrove creek, which we were told is mostly filled with local yachts, many derelict, on poorly maintained moorings. The island is home to major US Navy and Air Force bases, which are likely to be expanded with the significant withdrawal of US forces from Okinawa in Japan.

Guam is an unincorporated territory of the USA. For virtually all practical purposes this means that it is part of the USA and entry requirements and restrictions are the same as for any other entry to the USA. This means that citizens of other countries are required to have a visa prior to arrival as the visa waiver program does not apply to those arriving by yacht. Immigration procedures are dealt with by a Federal US official, while Customs and Quarantine are dealt with by officials of the government of Guam. No official asked to board a yacht while we were there.

Apra Harbour

Apra is a superb natural harbour, however, the area available for yachts is very limited and surrounded by reefs. On entry to the main harbour follow the leading line up the main channel until you reach the buoyed channel, which branches to starboard toward the patrolled entrance to the Navy base to the south. Follow this channel to clear the surrounding shoals, then turn more easterly to pick up the stakes and small buoys marking the shoals which surround the anchorage off the Marianas Yacht Club (MYC), which is situated on Drydock Island. There are a number of moorings in this area with some local boats on them. Most of these moorings are not suitable for larger yachts and even the best are probably not good for yachts over about 12 tons and 42 feet. The moorings are mostly private. Consult Club members about their suitability and availability. There is a small area inshore of the most westerly moorings and also between those moorings and Polaris Point where it is possible for larger yachts to anchor. Depths vary considerably. The bottom is sand and coral. Dinghy landing is on the beach at the MYC.

The MYC is a friendly and welcoming club, but it is generally closed on weekdays. However, the washing and toilet facilities of the club are open and the telephone is available for local calls. A good contact to get information about access to the Club is Cindy Bell, telephone number 482.2785. She and her husband Chris are very helpful to visiting cruisers. There are usually club members about the Club at weekends. There is wi-fi available at the Club, but while we were there its operation was intermittent.

Hagatna is the main town of the island. The centre of the town and all supplies and services are over 5 miles from the MYC. It is very difficult to do any restocking in Guam without a car. Taxis are very expensive. Cruisers often band together to rent a car. The town is like a huge strip mall with virtually all stores on or just off the main road. That said almost all supplies are available at prices only slightly higher than in mainland USA. There are virtually no yacht-specific supplies or services. However, parts can be shipped in very easily and quickly from the USA, though larger or hazardous items requiring surface transport are likely to take at least one month and perhaps more. Guam is part of the US postal and telephone systems. There are international flights from Guam, connecting to major routes via Manila, Taipei and Tokyo. Fuel is available from petrol stations, water by jerry can from the MYC. We understood that it was possible to get gas bottles filled, but cannot guarantee this. Whether bottles not fitted with the American 'over fill protection device ' would be filled is another question. As so often, the more highly developed a country the harder it is for a visiting cruiser to find Internet access. If the MYC wi-fi is not working, we understand that Internet is available at the Seaman’s Mission. It was also possible to take one’s own computer to one of the McDonald’s and use free wi-fi there.

We stopped in Guam, only to restock on the way to Japan and so did nothing to explore the island. We understand from cruisers who have, that once beyond Hagatna, the countryside is attractive and that there are interesting aspects to the culture of the local indigenous people.