Flying Fish Articles

Alesund – 62°28.00'N, 06°09.00'E [Approximate]
Tromso – 69°39.00'N, 18°57.00'E [Approximate]
Kristiansund – 63°07.10'N, 07°44.10'E [Approximate]
Kongensvoll – 63°33.20'N, 09°24.20'E [Approximate]
Roan – 64°10.70'N, 10°12.60'E [Approximate]
Saetervagen – 64°23.70'N, 10°29.10'E [Approximate]
Rorvik – 64°51.60'N, 11°13.70'E [Approximate]
Bronnoysund – 65°28.40'N, 12°12.40'E [Approximate]
Sila – 66°19.80'N, 13°09.10'E [Approximate]
Engen – 66°42.50'N, 13°42.60'E [Approximate]
Esoya – 66°44.50'N, 13°30.40'E [Approximate]
Bodo – 67°17.00'N, 14°47.50'E [Approximate]
Nordskot – 67°50.20'N, 14°47.50'E [Approximate]
Revelsoy – 68°50.20'N, 16°11.80'E [Approximate]
Narvik (Vassvik Small Boat Harbour) – 68°26.80'N, 17°23.80'E [Approximate]
Ankenes Small Boat Harbour – 68°25.50'N, 17°21.50'E [Approximate]
Ballangen – 68°20.70'N, 16°52.80'E [Approximate]
Harstad – 68°48.20'N, 16°32.80'E [Approximate]
Vestervagen – 69°11.80'N, 17°56.20'E [Approximate]
Hestoya – 69°22.20'N, 18°03.90'E [Approximate]
Stonglandet – 69°05.20'N, 17°05.20'E [Approximate]
Risoyhamn – 68°58.40'N, 15°38.70'E [Approximate]
Stokmarknes – 68°34.00'N, 14°54.90'E [Approximate]
Skipoosen – 68°29.00'N, 15°58.40'E [Approximate]
Trollfjord – 68°21.80'N, 14°58.40'E [Approximate]
Bukkholmen – 68°14.80'N, 14°53.70'E [Approximate]
Gullvik – 68°14.90'N, 14°53.80'E [Approximate]
Ulvaagen – 68°16.50'N, 14°56.50'E [Approximate]
Risvaer – 68°16.00'N, 15°07.00'E [Approximate]
Skrova – 68°10.00'N, 14°40.50'E [Approximate]
Sidpollen – 68°19.20'N, 14°42.80'E [Approximate]
Svolvaer – 68°14.40'N, 14°34.70'E [Approximate]
Steine – 68°07.00'N, 13°48.10'E [Approximate]
Gravdals – 68°07.70'N, 13°34.90'E [Approximate]
Moskenes – 67°54.00'N, 13°02.50'E [Approximate]
E.Vokkoy (Helligvaer) – 67°25.70'N, 13°52.20'E [Approximate]
Sila – 66°19.30'N, 13°07.00'E [Approximate]
Hjartoya – 66°00.30'N, 12°24.20'E [Approximate]
Rorvik (Straumsoya E.Anchorage) – 64°51.90'N, 11°16.10'E [Approximate]
Storfosna – 63°39.20'N, 09°30.30'E [Approximate]
Boeroya – 63°18.20'N, 08°19.70'E [Approximate]
Naerbovagen (Gossa) – 62°48.90'N, 06°53.90'E [Approximate]

REPORT ON A CRUISE TO NORTHERN NORWAY SUMMER 2005 IN MOONLIGHT OF DOWN

1 Introduction. 2 Purpose of Cruise. 3 Objectives. 4 The Vessel. 5 Report. 6. Observations. 6.1 The North Norwegian Boating Scene. 6.2 Suitability of Vessel. 6.3 Anchoring. 6.4 Navigation. 6.5 Weather Information. 6.6 Tides. 6.7 Dangerous Waves. 6.8 Pilotage and Cruising Information. 6.9 Diesel. 6.10 Cooking Gas. 6.11 Clothing. 6.12 Victuals. 6.13 Photography. 7 Conclusions.

1 Introduction. This report has been compiled to provide OCC members with cruising information accumulated on a cruise to Northern Norway in the Summer of 2005. It reflects our experience and views of the operation of our vessel, in the manner in which we like to operate it. It is not intended as a definitive cruising guide. It details that part of the cruise from Lerwick to Tromso and return to Lerwick.

2 Purpose of Cruise. To experience coastal cruising in higher latitudes as a change to voyaging in tropical waters. To practice and enhance coastal navigational skills. To enjoy Norway’s spectacular coastal scenery. To enjoy just cruising.

3 Objectives. To cruise from our home port of Bangor NI to Tromso and return. Departing first week in May and cruising to Lerwick. Departing Lerwick in the first settled period after the 1st June. Returning from Norway around 20th August to arrive in Bangor by the 24th September.

4 The Vessel. Our vessel is a Moody 42, Centre Cockpit Ketch. This model was built with a fixed Dog House. The steering position is within the Dog House to Port and we have added a Yeoman Plotting position to Starboard. Designed by Angus Primrose, moulded by Robert Ives and built by Moody in Swanick in 1978. It has a Perkins 72HP diesel. The useable fuel capacity is 326L which at 6kts uses 4.3L/hr giving a range of 455nm. The water capacity is 650L which for us lasts in excess of 60 days. There is a flexible 43L holding tank that in addition to its Suck Out is fitted with an overboard discharge pump.

5 Report. Abbreviations:- NGC = Norwegian Cruising Guide. Ed 2. 5.1 Lerwick to Alesund. 246nm. 39.2hrs 16/17 June.

5.1.1 Timing. We chose to leave from Lerwick in the first settled period with fair winds after 1st June. This was because we considered that it might be too cold for comfort and that there was more likely to be a rapid deterioration in the weather on passage prior to that date. In the even we were delayed by persistent NE winds and did not sail from Lerwick until the15th June. We feel that the strategy was about right for us and will use it in the future. Although yachts who made crossings in May 2003 and 2004 had good passages and cruising in that month the yachts that crossed in May 2005, in general had to deal with the onset of sudden gales on passage and with some very cold weather on the Norwegian Coast.

5.1.2 Route Chosen. From Lerwick to a point North of the Oil Rig ‘Eider’, to clear the major part of the oilfield, then direct to Alesund. This route takes you clear of ’Stattlandet’ an area of dangerous Waves and accelerated winds. It also enabled us to complete the passage in around 42 hours which reduced the likelihood of an unexpected deterioration in the weather on the longer passage to Bodo.

5.1.3 Alesund. 62deg. 28.3`N 006deg. 09.2`E The long guest pontoon is on the North side of the island on the East side of Brosundet. Electricity and water on the pontoon. Payment at the Kiosk by the bridge. The pontoon can get very busy and rafting up is normal. Toilets, Showers and Washing Machine in the Facilities under the Kiosk. Coin operated entrance. Fuel available at the Chandlers quay on the approach to the guest pontoon. Payment by cash or UK card over the counter in normal business hours. The Customs office is in the building across the road from the Kiosk.. The entrance is by the stone tower under the Customs `Toll` emblem. The office closes at 1530 Friday for the weekend. Contact Telephone numbers:- 70163400 for manned hours, 70101340 for unmanned hours voice mail. When entering, a pre-prepared Crew List helps the procedure. Outward clearance is not required. There is a Norwegian Chart Agent `Aarflot Libris` just to the West of the bridge (Kirkest 3). There is a Coop Supermarket just to the West of the bridge Alesund has the usual facilities of a small city and makes a pleasant stop over.

5.2 Alesund - Kristiansund. 66nm. 21st June.

5.2.1 Route. Departed via Lepsoyrevet to join the Indreleia as far as Bjornsund Is. The passage then proceeds across the Hustadvika, an area of Dangerous Waves, to Kristiansund. We completed this passage in one leg as the wind was offshore F1-2.

5.2.2 Kristiansund. 63deg. 07.1`N 007deg 44.1`E The pontoons of the guest harbour lie in the North arm of the harbour (Vagen) which is close to the town centre. Some alongside berths and some very narrow and short finger berths. Berthing fees collected late evening and early morning. Electricity and water available. Facilities block. Tends to get busy. Good Coop within walking distance and a good range of shops and other facilities.

5.3 Kristiansund - Kongensvoll. 55.8nm. 23rd June.

5.3.1 Route. Departed Kristiansund via Dalasundet and Hammersundet thence via the Indreleia to the approaches to Kongensvoll.

5.3.2 Kongensvoll. 63deg. 33.2`N 009deg 24.2`E A mole harbour with a guest pontoon with up to 8 berths just inside the entrance. Water and electricity available. A new additional pontoon has been added outside the mole that can provide 6 to 8 berths on the outside. Electricity available but no water. The West side of its short access pontoon is the fuel berth. Fuel available for cash, but not UK cards. The marina has boat storage and workshop facilities and can lift out by crane up to 10 tons. Facilities block shared with an on site caravan park. Small café operates Friday evenings/Saturdays/Sundays in season. No other facilities in the area. The bay is well protected from all wind directions. It is a recognised anchorage and should provide good holding in approx. 10m on sand.

5.4 Kongensvoll - Roan. 51.9nm. 25th June.

5.4.1 Route. Via the Indreleia. The complete passage is in narrow confined waters with short legs and some blind turns. 5.4.2 Roan. 64deg. 10.7`N 010deg. 12.6`E Anchorage 9.2m CD. Good holding in firm sand in area behind a mole joining Prestholmen and Little Prestholmen. Rode out a SW gale (F7 experienced) without concern. Inside the bay there are two mole harbours. Neither are listed as having guest facilities. The small boat harbour appears unsuitable for sailing yachts. It might be possible to lie in the fishing harbour in emergency.

5.5 Roan - Saetervagen. 17.2nm. 28th June.

5.5.1 Route. Via Indreleia. The passage is in narrow confined waters with short legs. For us this was a short positioning leg after a weather delay.

5.5.2 Saetervagen. 64deg. 23.7`N 010deg. 29.1`E An old fishing harbour, part of which is currently being redeveloped as a resort. At the guest pontoons, at the time of the report, there are three places. Two at the hammerhead and one inside the outer hammerhead. There is a toilet facility in the resort car park. There is a restaurant that appears to operate in high summer only. There is a fuel facility on the fishing quay. No water, electricity or charges in June `05.

5.6 Saetervagen - Rorvik. 37.6nm. 29th June.

5.6.1 Route. Via Indreleia.

5.6.2 Rorvik. 64deg. 51.6`N 011deg 13.7`E The guest pontoon is the South face of the first pontoon at the marina in the mole harbour. Electricity and water available. There is a club room with one toilet and one shower and a wash room with washing machine and dryer. There is a Statoil fueling pontoon with a card (not UK cards) operated pump inside the mole harbour. On the quay North of the mole harbour there are attended Shell and Esso bunkering facilities. The Esso facility has a small vessel pontoon and the Pilot gives depth alongside as 4m. The small town is a short walk. There is a Coop and another supermarket, plus a PO and Bank. There is a new museum on Norwegian life.

5.6.3 Anchorages. See Para. 5.31.2

5.7 Rorvik - Bronnoysund. 47.7nm. 30th June.

5.7.1 Route. Via Indreleia.

5.7.2 Bronnoysund. 65deg. 28.4`N 012deg. 12.4`E A good guest harbour. You can berth on the outside (West side) of the long outer pontoon if there is insufficient mooring or turning room inside. Water available but electricity on inner pontoons only. Honesty payment system with receipt envelops available (both English and Norwegian) from a box at the head of the inner pontoons. Boats are checked for displayed receipts early mornings. Toilets and showers in adjacent restaurant building. The Esso fuel berth next to the guest harbour is attended and takes cash. Good Coop Mega (90-20(18)) and Vinmonopolet (10-17) across the road from the pontoons

5.8 Bronnoysund - Sila '>Sila. 62.8nm. 1st July.

5.8.1 Route. Via Indreleia.

5.8.2 Sila. 66deg. 19.8`N 013deg. 09.1`E Anchorage 11.9m CD. Firm sand. Good holding at head of bay. Bay virtually land locked but open to a small segment to South West. A most impressive anchorage amongst the mountains that still had large snow pockets. Although not experienced one would be cautious about down drafts in certain conditions. For use in South West winds see Para.5.28.2 regarding second visit.

5.9 Sila - Engen (Holdandsfjord for Svartisen Glacier) - Esoya. 52nm. 2nd July.

5.9.1 Route. Via Indreleia, past the Polarmark, then a diversion via Skarsfjord to the head of Holandsfjord to view the Svartisan Glacier. Thence returning to anchor in the bay on the North side of Esoya.

5.9.2 Engen. 66deg. 42.5`N 013deg. 42.6`E Long pontoon off a wooden jetty. Use by tourist boats and private boats to visit the glacier. For further details see NCG Pg 48. One needs to go as far as the jetty to view the snout of the glacier as the snout comes from the South East behind a ridge. We did not stop as we did not fancy the 2 hour round walking trip.

5.9.3 Esoya. 66deg. 44.5`N 013deg. 30.4`E Anchorage behind the small island in the bay on the North side of Esoya, 12.4m CD. Firm sand. Good holding. On the Western head of the bay there is an industrial plant with 6 conspicuous silos. Keep clear of the quay as it is used by small bulk carriers that turn before berthing.

5.10 Esoya - Bodo. 48nm. 3rd July.

5.10.1 Route. Via the 20m bridge at Storo to rejoin the Indreleia in Melofjord, rounding Kunna and onwards to Bodo. Note:- Kunna is a conspicuous 599m peak joined to the mainland by a low isthmus. The NNE 3 was accelerated to F5 circulating around it.

5.10.2 Bodo. 67deg. 17.0`N 014deg. 47.5`E Visitors can berth along the outer side of the outer pontoon forming the small boat harbour. This pontoon is subject to wash from passing commercial craft and yachts. There are two pontoons past the Small Boat Harbour projecting from the main fishing quays on the harbour wall Northwards into the harbour and adjacent to the Statoil fuel pontoon and the Shell fuel Barge. The East pontoon East side is for fishing boats. The West side and both sides of the West pontoons are for visitors. There is a guest pontoon projecting Westwards from the harbour front road. There is a further guest pontoon projecting Westwards from the Rescue Boat Jetty close to the SAS Radisson Hotel. The harbour dues are collected by the harbour hostess who makes several rounds a day. Her office is on the ground floor of a building marked `Molostua` where the harbour wall joins the shore. Adjacent to her office are the facilities (showers/toilets/washing machines). Showers/washing Machines require tokens available from the hostess. The Statoil pump is card operated as is the pump on the Shell fuel barge (but not UK cards). However this barge is manned in normal business hours and if it is not away delivering or loading fuel, the attendant will take cash. Bodo is a major centre that has good facilities. The main city centre supermarket `ICA` is on the lower ground floor to the Glass House Shopping Mall. There is a `Remi` supermarket in the West side of the local bus stands. City Nord, 12 mins on Route 801, 15min service in normal business hours, is the out of town shopping facility. There is a large Coop. This service also stops at the nearby National Air Museum which has excellent civil and military exhibition halls.

5.11 Bode - Nordskot. 38.4nm. 5th July.

5.11.1 Route. Via Indreleia.

5.11.2 Nordskot. 67deg. 50.2`N 014deg. 47.5`E Anchorage in 9.1m CD. Firm sand. Good holding. Off an old fishing village, being redeveloped, that is a fast ferry stop on the Bodo to Svolvaer route. There are 4 blue mooring buoys, with yellow pick ups, marked `Guest Buoy`. Details of usage not ascertained. This was the only anchorage/berth that we came across where the background mountains (Lofoten Islands) were far/low enough to observe the suns lower meridian passage (i.e. Midnight Sun - 0105 LT) from the boat.

5.12 Nordskot - Revelsoy. 48.5nm. 6th July.

5.12.1 Route. Depart Nordskot via Indreleia to the East of Storfloh, thence South East of Flatoy into Vestfjorden, round Nordoskallen, South of Baroy to anchor South of Revelsoy. There is no Indreleia on the East side of Vestfjorden North of Flatoy. One can experience difficult conditions leaving the Indreleia by the Breisundet South West of Flatoy. We avoided this possibility by routing South East of Flatoy.

5.12.2 Revelsoy. 68deg. 50.2`N 016deg. 11.8`E Anchorage 11.8m. CD. Firm sand. Good holding. A good anchorage sheltered by adjacent islands and sandbanks.

5.13 Revelsoy - Narvik & backtrack to Ballangen. 32.0 + 14.8nm. 7th July.

5.13.1 Route. Via Ofotfjord to Narvik then backtrack to Ballangen in a bay on the South side of Ofotfjord.

5.13.2 Narvik. (Vassvik Small Boat Harbour). 68deg. 26.8`N 017deg. 23.8`E Went to the entrance. Room inside is restricted for a 14m boat. Depth alongside the guest pontoon was reported to be 1.9m at LW. A rafted up boat on the outside of the guest pontoon would obstruct the entrance. The residential pontoons/outriggers were full. They appear to be falling into disrepair and are only suitable for small craft. The so called Hammerheads are not suitable for mooring 12 tons against. An unsolicited report from the skipper of a UK 36’ cruising yacht who used the facility said that it was extremely tight and shallow for his yacht and that he would not recommend it for our vessel. He would not use the facility again.

5.13.3 Narvik. (Ankenes Small Boat Harbour) 68deg. 25.5`N 017deg. 21.5`E We did not use this facility. The skipper of a UK 44’ yacht that uses the facility advises that there are no problems with depth or manoeuvring room inside this marina. There are no guest facilities as such but visiting yachts are given a friendly welcome and accommodated in vacant berths or rafted up. It is best to go the fuel berth on arrival and make enquires. The fuel berth is also the regular berth of a Trip Boat. There is a half hourly bus service to Narvik.

5.13.4 Ballangen. 68deg. 20.7`N 016deg. 52.8`E Anchorage on the South side on the shelf off Nybo 0.5nm. South West of the bulk mineral loading jetty. 11.3m CD in alluvial mud. Good holding. We did not like the anchorage at the head of the bay. By the time you were in 12m with the appropriate scope the boat was too close to the shore.

5.14 Ballangen - Revelsoy. 24.4nm. 8th July.

5.14.1 Route. Via Ofotfjord. A gradient SW 3/4 breeze funnelled through Ofotfjord at WSW 5/6.

5.14.2 Revelsoy. See Para 5.12.2

5.15 Revelsoy - Harstad. 42.2nm. 9th July.

5.15.1 Route. Via Ofotfjord to South end of the Tjeldsundet off Lodingen, where the Indreleia continues Northward. Thence to Harstad. It is most advisable to work the tide through Tjelsundet. See NCG Pg. 66. We attempted to anchor at Kilbotn 68deg. 43.25`N 016deg. 33.00`E and at Boden 68deg. 46.40`N 016deg. 34.00`E but the bottoms appeared to be bed rock with no holding. Continued to Harstad where we were fortunate to find a free berth on the guest pontoon on a Saturday night.

5.15.2 Harstad. 68deg. 48.1`N 016deg. 32.8`E There are 4 guest pontoons in the centre of town. The North pontoon has 7 short narrow finger pontoons suitable for boats up to about 10m. The centre pontoon can berth 2 boats each side and was used by us. Payment by purchase of a ticket from the Pay & Display machine at the head of the gangway. Two short pontoons attached to the quay on the South side appear to be the permanent berths of tourist trip boats. We did no check the facilities that were available in the café on the quay.

5.16 Harstad - Vestervagen. (2nm S of Finnsnes). 39.9nm. 10th July. 5.16.1 Route. Via Indreleia.

5.16.2 Vestervagen. 69deg. 11.8`N 017deg. 56.2`E Anchorage. Attempted to anchor in 11m CD but bed rock bottom. Moved further to head of bay and anchored in 8.5m CD. Sand. Satisfactory holding. Whilst weighing anchor in the morning got into shallow water. Not recommended. There are other anchorages in the area.

5.17 Vestervagen - Tromso. 35.6nm. 11th July.

5.17.1 Route. Via Indreleia. There are two channels through the narrows at Finnsnes, East and West. From a distance the bouyage systems appear to mingle causing some confusion on ones first passage. The West Cardinal Buoy at 69deg. 13.39`N 017deg. 57.37`E has been replaced by a Tripod Beacon. The starboard Hand Spar Buoy at 69deg.14.05`N 017deg. 58.16`E is now a shore light on the corner of a land reclamation. It is most advisable to work the tide through the Rystraumen. See NCG Pg. 66.

5.17.2 Tromso. 69deg. 39.0`N 018deg. 57.6`E Two guest pontoon facilities in the old mole harbour just South of the bridge. 1. Port Authority (PA) facility consist of a pontoon with fingers on the North side and alongside berthing on the South side. The PA does not seem to like long stay (i.e. Overnight) berthing on the South side as it is used for the day trip boats to embark passengers. Contact ` Tromso Port` on VHF Chan 12 and they will probably allocate you a berth on `Kai 11` adjacent too and immediately South of the pontoon. There is a large blue/white sign `Kai 11` on the face wall of the adjacent building. On the pontoon `Parking Tickets` are available from the Pay & Display machine at the head of the gangway. For `Kai 11` the PA will visit to ascertain measurements and charges. Which for us were the same as being on the pontoon. Kai 11 is concrete piled with tyre fenders and a fender board is highly desirable. 2. Nearby, the hotel `Rica Ishavs` has a pontoon with 6 narrow finger berths each side. Larger yachts use the end outriggers as a hammerhead. Pay at the hotel reception desk. Same rate as the PA pontoon. Facilities available for all yachts in the base of the tower at the seaward end of the hotel. Access by key card available on payment of a refundable deposit from the hotel reception desk. Showers and Washing machine/dryer available on payment at the hotel reception desk. Other berthing facilities. It is sometimes possible to arrange a berth at the yacht club pontoons inside the mole which forms the old harbour. There is a small boat harbour where yachts can berth on the Eastern side of the bridge. These facilities were not investigated. Fuel is available for cash at the `Bunker Oil` facility just North of the bridge. It is advisable to go alongside this big ship piled quay at HW. Tromso is a large Norwegian University City with good facilities. There are a number of restaurants on `Kai 11`. To the rear of the block there is a large bookshop `Libris` which stocks a good selection of Norwegian Charts and Nautical Publications. The Tromso museum, Polaria museum and the Polar museum are all well worth visiting.

5.18 Tromso - Hestoya Island. 28nm. 15th July.

5.18.1 Route. Via Indreleia, through Rystraumen. See Para 5.17.1

5.18.2 Hestoya. 69deg. 22.2`N 018deg. 03.9`E Anchorage to West of Hestoya Island. 12.8m CD. Stiff sand/mud mix. Good holding. Well sheltered. Found Southern approach has 2.5m CD.

5.19 Hestoya - Stonglandet. 30.5nm. 16th July.

5.19.1 Route. Via Indreleia.

5.19.2 Stonglandet. 69deg. 05.2`N 017deg. 05.2`E Anchorage off fishing village. 12.8m CD. Firm sand. Good holding. Sheltered except to North East. Three small quays, two with small craft pontoons and a larger quay used by the fish farm tender. Village store and petrol station ashore.

5.20 Stonglandet - Risoyhamn. 38.7nm. 17th July.

5.20.1 Route. From Stonglanded we routed through Kvernsundet North of Grytoya, across Andefjorden to the Risoyrenna Channel to Risoyhamn. It is advisable to work the tide through Risoyrenna. See NCG Pg. 66.

5.20.2 Risoyhamn. 68deg. 58.4`N 015deg. 38.7`E Anchorage. 8.3m CD. Firm sand. Good holding. Sheltered fetch in all directions. There is a small boat pontoon on the shore but it was full and did not seem suitable for yachts of 14m and 12 tons.

5.21 Risoyhamn - Stockmarknes. 33.5nm. 18th July.

5.21.1 Route. Via Risoysundet, Gualfjorden and Sortlandsundet.

5.21.2 Stokmarknes. 68deg. 34.0`N 014deg. 54.9`E Guest pontoon (4 berths) at the South end of the town, just to the North of Boroy bridge. There are two residential fishing boats. Water and electricity available. Pay at the adjacent chandlers where diesel for cash is available. No facilities. Coop and Remi supermarkets. PO and two banks with ATM’s. Hurtiguten House. - Hotel/Hurtiguten museum/Restaurant. Two other eating houses.

5.22 Stokmarknes - Skipoosen (E. Brotoya) - Troll fjord - Buckholmen Bay - Gullvik. 29.1nm. 21st July.

5.22.1 Route. Across Hajselfjorden to Skipoosen (East Brotoy) to await the tide. See (NCG Pg. 51.). Then through Raftsundet for a visit to Trollfjord. Thence to Buckholmen Bay where we decided not to anchor and on to Gullvik on Stormolla.

5.22.2 Skipoosen. 68deg. 29.0`N 015deg. 58.4`E Anchorage in well sheltered bay. 11.4m CD. Firm sand. Good holding. Beach ashore where locals picnic. Excellent place to await the South flow through Raftsundet or for an overnight anchorage.

5.22.3 Trollfjord. 68deg. 21.8`N 014deg. 58.4`E Famous narrow deep fjord worth a visit. There is a short vertically clad timber quay at the small hydro-power station at the head that could be used for a short stop or overnight if you could tolerate the noise of the discharge water. There is also a rickety pier opposite but it was occupied, possibly by the operator of the small adjacent handicrafts business. We went up in the late afternoon into a low sun which made photography in the preferred direction impossible.

5.22.4 Bukkholmen Bay. 68deg. 14.8`N 014deg. 53.7`E A sheltered anchorage, but minimum depth with swinging room was as charted at 19m CD. Bottom/holding unknown. Decided not to use it. 5.22.5 Gullvik. 68deg. 14.9`N 014deg. 53.8`E An excellent anchorage. 10.3m CD in the centre of a landlocked bay. Firm sand. Good holding. Plenty of swinging room for several yachts. Mooring bolts around the bay. Scenic and secure. Bar on entry charted as 3m. Least depth observed 4.1m CD.

5.23 Gullvik - Ulvagen - Risvaer - Skrova - Sid pollen - Head of Ostnefjord - Svolvaer. 47.2nm. 22nd July.

5.23.1 Route. From Gullvik North up Ulvagsund to view Ulvaagen, then South of ArSteinen through the skerries to Risvaer to view. Thence to Skrova to view. North up Ostnesfjorden to Sidpollen to anchor. Not suitable so tried the head of Ostnesfjord which also found unsuitable. Retrace our steps to Svolvaer. No berths available on the hammerheads in Marinpollen so anchored in the bay under the twinned peaked rock spire `Svolvaergeita`. .

5.23.2 Ulvaagen. 68deg. 16.5`N 014deg. 56.5`E A scenic fjord with two small fishing villages worth viewing in passing.

5.23.3 Risvaer. 68deg. 16.0`N 015deg. 07.0`E A scenic ex fishing village now converted to holiday homes. All private water front jetties. There appears to be no public facilities ashore and no reason to actually stop there. However it does make the focus of a scenic trip amongst the skerries.

5.23.4 Skrova. 68deg. 10.0`N 014deg. 40.5`E Large fishing harbour, ex whaling port. Guest pontoon half way up Skrovvoy (the Eastern Island) next to the ferry link span. Would not consider there is anchoring room at the head of the creek for a cruising yacht as shown on the chart. The cable to Skrova Light has now been raised to 22m. The Red Spar Buoy shown in the entrance is now a Port Hand Beacon.

5.23.5 Sidpollen. 68deg.19.2`N 014deg. 42.8`E Mentioned in NCG Pg. 57. The cove now contains a pontoon with finger berths for fishing boats which obstructs the swinging room. There is a large notice `Live Cable - Anchoring Forbidden` on the East side of the cove but no corresponding notice on the West side. Decided not prudent for us to anchor.

5.23.6 Ostnesfjorden. _Head Of - NE Corner. Tried the anchorage marked on the chart. Found 15m with step changes of +/- 1.5m suggesting rock ridges. Did not attempt anchoring.

5.23.7 Svolvaer. 68deg. 14.4`N 014deg. 34.7`E Anchored in the bay under the twin peaked rock spire `Svolvaergeita`. 10.8m. CD. Firm alluvial mud. Holding good. It is reported that dinghies can be landed as the Shell service station in Marinpollen. On the following day, Saturday, we went to the main harbour to look for a berth. All berths on the guest pontoons were occupied by small motor boats rafted up. The quay space was all occupied by tourist and charter boats. The guest facilities that used to be around Lamholmen have been changed to private quays for the new holiday apartments. Back in the Marinpollen all the guest hammerheads were still occupied. So back to anchor. This was probably the busiest weekend of the summer season and might not represent the mid week situation earlier in the season.

5.24 Svolvaer - Kabala - Hennisvaer - Stamsund - Steine - Gravdals. 36.1nm. 25th July.

5.24.1 Route. South East along the South side of the Lofoten Islands. Entered Kabalvaag - Hennisvaer and Stamsund (see NCG) to take photographs. The pontoons were full. Perhaps one could have berthed at the piled fishing boats quays but this did not appeal. Attempted to anchor at Steine but no holding so continues South East and up Buksnesfjord to Gravdals.

5.24.2 Steine. 68deg. 07.0`N 013deg. 48.1`E Attempted to anchor in position shown on chart in 7m CD. Bed rock. No holding. 5.24.3 Gravdals. 68deg. 07.7`N 013deg. 34.9`E Anchored off the ferry boat terminal 7.1m CD. Thin loose sand and kelp on rock. Holding poor. Fair weather anchorage only. There is a large concrete pontoon next to the link span. This might provide a berth if not in use. Depth alongside was not ascertained. Attempted to anchor off the small boat harbour at 68deg. 07.6`N 013deg. 33.5`E but found bed rock with no holding.

5.25 Gravdals - Nusford- Sund - Reine - Moskenes - E.Vokkly (Helligvaer). 59.5nm. 26th July.

5.25.1 Route. From Gravdals down Buksnesfjord and South East to visit Nusfjord and Reine. (see NCG). These were attractive harbours to visit but the berthing facilities did not appeal to us. The South coast of Moskenes is most spectacular. We continued hoping to anchor at Moskenes for the night (see Para. 5.25.2) before crossing Vestfjord to anchor at E.Vokkoy (Helligvaer).

5.25.2 Moskenes. 67deg. 54.0`N 013deg. 02.5`E Attempted to anchor in 10m on the charted anchor symbol. Bed rock bottom. No holding. Hooked an uncharted, unmarked electrical cable, of unidentified type, when weighing. Managed to hang it off to free the anchor. There is no guest pontoon in this harbour. The fish company that operates the bunkering facility appeared closed, probably for the season.

5.25.3 E.Vokkoy (Helligvaer). 67deg. 25.7`N 013deg. 52.2`E Anchored between islands on 9m sounding on chart 65 just to the East of the anchor symbol. 9.5m CD. Thin loose sand on rock. Holding poor. Fair weather anchorage only. The preferred spot on the 10m sounding is now a forbidden anchorage due to a water pipe between the islands. Also noted substantial abandoned mooring ropes from mooring bolts going into the water in that area.

5.26 E.Vokkoy (Helligvaer) - Bodo. 13.4nm. 27thJuly.

5.26.1 Route. From Helligvaer South of Landegode to join the Indreleia thence to Bodo.

5.26.2 Bodo. See Para. 5.10.2

5.27 Bodo - Esoya. 42.1nm. 30 July.

5.27.1 Route. Bodo via Indreleia to Melofjord thence via the 20m bridge at Storo to Esoya.

5.27.2 Esoya. See Para. 5.9.3 5.28 Esoya - Sila. 36.3nm. 31st July. 5.28.1 Route. Via Indreleia. 5.28.2 Sila. 66deg. 19.3`N 013deg. 07.0`E Anchorage. 9.0m CD. Sand with kelp. Satisfactory holding. Anchored in a moderate SW wind in the bight on the port (West side) on entry, off the first farm. Provided good shelter from the SW wind. See Para 5.8.2. Probably good for all wind directions and saves the trek to the head of the bay. 5.29 Sila - Hjartoya. 26.1nm. 1st August. 5.29.1 Route. South East of HandnEsoya through Litlsjona past Nesna to the Indreleia then through Hoestadsundet and Donnessundet to Hjartoya.

5.29.2 Hjartoya. 66deg. 00.3`N 012deg. 24,2`E Anchorage in enclosed bay. 13.2m CD. Soft Mud. Fair holding but anchor would have to drag uphill. Entrance on North West side of island. Charted depth at entrance 3m. Found 4.4m CD. Good views of the Seven Sisters.

5.30 Hjartoya - Bronnoysund. 30.8nm. 2nd August.

5.30.1 Route. South East of North Heroya to join Indreleia and thence to Bronnoysund. .

5.30.2 Bronnoysund. See Para. 5.7.2.

5.31 Bronnoysund - Rorvik (Straumsoya E.Anchorage). 42.5nm. 3rd August.

5.31.1 Route. Via Indreleia. 5.31.2 Rorvik (Straumsoya E.Anchorage). 64deg.51.9`N 011deg. 16.1`E Anchorage. 10.0m CD. Thick kelp on loose sand. Holding appeared satisfactory. There is a second anchorage at the South end of the island at 64deg. 51.8`N 011deg. 15.6`E. Not used. There is only sufficient swinging room for one yacht in each. For facilities see Para. 5.6.2. 5.32 Rorvik - Roan. 50.2nm. 4th August.

5.32.1 Route. Via Indreleia.

5.32.2 Roan. See Para 5.4.2.

5.33 Roan - Storfosna. 44.2nm. 5th August.

5.33.1 Route. Via Indreleia.

5.33.2 Storfosna. 63deg. 39.2`N 009deg. 30.3`E Anchorage in large landlocked bay. 7.0m CD. Sand/mud mix. Holding good. Should be a good anchorage for all conditions. Bar just outside entrance to bay, 3.3m CD West side and 4.6m CD on E side. The small boat harbour at the North end of the bay was not visited.

5.34 Storfosna - Kongensvoll. 6.7nm. 6th August.

5.34.1 Route. Across Trondheimsleia. 5.34.2 Kongensvoll. See Para. 5.3.1. 5.35 Kongensvoll - Boeroya (Edoyfjorden). 31.7nm. 7th August.

5.35.1 Route. Via Indreleia. 5.35.2 Boeroya. 63deg. 18.2`N 008deg.19.7`E Anchorage 5.2m CD. Sand/mud mix. Satisfactory holding. Bay gives shelter from North West, through North to South East. Used as an alternative anchorage to Nordvagen 63deg. 15.4`N 008deg. 19.4`E as forecast for NE 6/7 (NE 6 experienced). Nordvagen open to NE.

5.36 Boeroya - Kristiansund. 18.3nm. 8th August.

5.36.1 Route. Via Indreleia thence via Hammersundet and Dalasundet to Kristiansund.

5.36.2 Kristiansund . See Para. 5.2.2.

5.37 Kristiansund - Naerbovagen (Gossa). 36.1nm. 10th August.

5.37.1 Route. Via Indreleia which crosses the Hustadvika to Bjornsund thence via Julsundet to Naerbovagen on the East coast of Gossa.

5.37.2 Naerbovagen (Gossa). 62deg. 48.9`N 006deg. 53.9`E Anchorage in enclosed bay. 7.0m CD. Sand. Good holding. Has narrow entrance facing East South East but good shelter can be had for all wind directions. There is a ship building yard on the North side of the bay.

5.38 Naerbovagen (Gossa) - Alesund. 33.2nm. 11th August.

5.38.1 Route. From Naerbovagen, North of otteroya via Grunnefjorden and North of Raudholmen Light to Lepsoyrevet and through the islands to Alesund.

5.38.2 Alesund. See Para. 5.1.3.

5.39 Alesund - Lerwick. 247nm. (41.5hrs). 12/14th August.

5.39.1 Route. North of Hareidlandet through the Rimoy/Runde bridge to a departure point North West of Mulenest to a WP North of the oil rig `Eider` thence direct to Lerwick. There were confused seas off Haeidlandet and Mulenest and we would not use this route again but follow our inward route North of Runde.

6 Observations.

6.1 The North Norwegian Boating Scene. In the area cruised Norwegian sailing yachts are few. There are a number of traditional craft that are cruised. The reason is that the waters, whilst good for cruising are not really good for sailing. The gradient winds at this time of year are generally NE and often light and variable. Any wind there is tends to funnel along the sounds (Sundets) and is therefore dead ahead or astern. To achieve our objective we needed to average around 40 miles a day at an economical speed. For us that is 6 knots or 7 hours underway plus an additional 2 hours for passage planning, weather reception, and preparing/securing before/after sailing. We find a 9 hour day, over an extended period, long enough.

6.1.1 The Indreleia (Inner Way). This is a navigable route inside the islands and skerries, that runs, with a few interruptions, from Stavanger to North Cape. Most vessels working the coast use this route. Because the waters are sheltered it enables the Norwegians to operate quite small fishing and pleasure vessels on what would otherwise be an extremely exposed coast. Consequently the Norwegians on this coast utilise small motor boats generally 9 - 10m in length often single screw with bow thrusters. Being coastal dwellers they tend to use their boats as a all purpose recreational vessel for fishing (seemingly everybody fishes for their larder), shopping in adjacent towns, visiting friends, as well as just `cruising`.

6.1.2 Guest Pontoons. The guest pontoon facilities that exist in the coast towns and large villages are geared for the operation of the above kind of vessel. Public Pontoon would be a more accurate description of their function. Often used for short stay shopping trips, for the operation of commercial trip boats and as a berth for single operator fishing vessels that fish by night and sell their catch in the day. Competition for space in the summer can be high and 42 foot yachts do not fall into the pattern of operation at all well. Often there are no cleats or bollards on the pontoons to which to make fast. One needs to use ingenuity quickly to secure to a facing board, nearby railing or rope loop left by another boat. The `Small Boat Harbours` (Smabathavns) are generally just that, not yacht harbours. Most Guest Pontoons have a water supply hose provided and free of charge. All Norwegian water is reported to be potable. Many Guest Pontoons have a 220v 50Hz electricity supply available. There may a an additional charge for the use of this facility. It is normally fed to a central point and a very long lead might be necessary to make the connection. Berthing charges vary but average the equivalent of £10 per night with £13 the maximum encountered (2005).

6.1.3 Draft and Air Draft. Apart from the attempt to use the small boat harbour at Narvik we did not have a problem with our 1.7m draft. However there were several16m bridges that limited our options on a number of occasions (we have 17m Air Draft). Operators of vessels should know its actual Air Draft. Overhead Power Cable, Underwater Power Cables and Water Pipes across Sounds are additional hazards that should be checked on the charts before departing from the main route of the Indreleia and before anchoring.

6.1.4 Facilities. Most large town Guest Pontoons are listed as having facilities. One imagines this to have been a regulatory requirement and is provided at the minimum level. The facilities generally consist of one, occasionally two, toilets often combined with a coin operated shower, one each male and female. They also generally have a coin operated washing machine and dryer. These latter facilities also seem to be used by passing campervan and other travellers. However Norwegians seem slow starters in the morning so an early start usually gets you access. We found our holding tank invaluable.

6.1.5 International Regulations for Preventing Collisions at Sea. (IRPCS). It appears that commercial vessels do not give way to pleasure vessels in the Indreleia and other restricted waters. The reasons for this are well covered in the NCG Pg. 19. It is best to keep a good look out, including astern, and take early and substantive action to keep well clear. Small motor boats also give cause for concern. They suddenly appear from nowhere (generally from behind a skerrie) and proceed on their way seemingly without any knowledge or heed of the IRPCS.

6.1.6 The Inshore Fishing Industry. The inshore fishing industry seems in an advanced state of decline with many of the old facilities not used and falling into decay or being changed into holiday homes. There is of course a major industrial fishing and fish farming industry in operation.

6.2 Suitability of Vessel. Whilst we found our vessel ideal for our mode of cruising we found it had its limitations when it came to using the berthing facilities, due to its size. This was acceptable to us as we prefer anchorages. Although we had been advised that anchoring could be difficult on this coast we in fact found it not to be so. We found that we only used the facilities at the larger towns to purchase fresh food and occasionally use the washing machines. Although we enjoyed good weather for most of the time, the wind chill factor of the NE wind could have been very tiring if it had not been for the enclosed steering position within the dog house. We also have a cockpit cover that encloses the complete centre cockpit whilst underway that can be used for motoring in wet weather. It also provides additional living space and acts as a conservatory keeping the boat warm whilst in port. We have seen two British aft cockpit 35 footers fitted with custom made covers to achieve the same objectives when cruising to Norway. A good reliable Auto Pilot is highly recommended. The accurate steering of long leads under power day after day would become a complete bore and would prevent the helmsman from enjoying the magnificent scenery. We feel that a more suitable vessel for cruising this coast would be a 32` - 34` Motor Sailer ( with an enclosed steering position). I should not have more than a 1.7m Draft and more than a 15m Air Draft. We suggest a motoring range of a least 350nm and two weeks water capacity. It should have a Holding Tank with a Self Discharge Pump.

6.3 Anchoring. We used a 65lb Spade Anchor on 60m of 10mm chain. As spares we carry a 45lb CQR, a 50lb Luke (Fishermans) and a 35lb UK Traditional Fishermans. The Spade is the best all round anchor we have ever used. We are also reluctant, when double handed, to rig and use the 50klb Luke due to the potential damage to our backs and the vessels topsides. It is recommended that yachts be able to handle anchorages of 20m CD with their installed ground tackle. There are useable anchorages on the coast shown on the Norwegian charts. However the nature of the bottom is rarely shown, but is generally given in the Admiralty and Norwegian Pilots. Most seem to provide satisfactory or good holding in sand or alluvial mud. However, sometimes the anchor goes down on bed rock with no holding. One should always have an alternative anchorage or berthing place planned. At least you do not have a problem with it becoming dark before you reach your alternative. A good windlass is of course a asset. Tradition has it that you use a Stern Anchor and use a mooring line to bolts on the rocks (marked by a Target). Fine for the fully crewed fishing boats and coastal vessels for which there were originally installed. However we did not feel it wise for a Septuagenarian to attempt, single handed, to scale slippery sea weed covered rocks from an inflatable dinghy to make fast. The consequences could have been disastrous. Actually we only saw one boat (a motor boat) moored to a shore bolt with a Stern Anchor out and that seemed to be to facilitate getting the large dog ashore for `Walkies`.

6.4 Navigation. The Norwegian coast is magnificently marked with sectored lights and buoys that not only serve the main North South route of the Indreleia but many other routes use by the local ferries and fishing boats. Remember there is total darkness throughout the 24 hours in winter. The main route is not marked as such on the Norwegian coastal charts. We use HO 1:200,000 chats, which show the Indreleia, for planning purposes. We transferred the Indreleia route to the Norwegian 1:50,000 charts for detailed passage planning and pilot age. Our charts were all pre-referenced for the Yeoman Plotter last winter. We have a plotting board for the GPS fed Yeoman Plotter installed in the Dog House so that we can visually pilot from alongside the steering position. The steering can be operated manually or electrically from the Auto Pilot at the steering position. The system worked really well. Navigation could have be done electronically but our budget did not stretch to having a large sunlight viewable plotter in the Dog House backed up by the appropriate paper charts. Also two Norwegian yachts reported that they had been led to the dangerous side of beacons by electronic plotters using a popular brand of electronic cartography and there was the case, a few years ago, of a bulk carrier stranding and capsizing in Bergen harbour whilst using electronic cartography. The lesson is what you see (with your eyes) is what you have got to deal with. We thought that we might have a `Dip` problem above 60deg, North with the Sestrel Steering Compass. This anticipated problem did not, in actual fact, materialize. The virtually deviation free fluxgate compass associated with the Auto Pilot combined with the information provided by the GPS Yeoman provided a most convenient pilotage system using magnetic headings. The Hand Bearing Compass suffered a `Dip` problem but remained useable if you remained conscious of it. Norwegian charts are normally European Datum 1950 (ED50). The newer editions are WGS84. Our GPS caters for both. One must remember to check and switch the GPS Datum as required when you change paper charts. There are some older Norwegian charts in Norwegian Datum. Our GPS does not cater for this datum. We found it best to use ED50 datum, ascertain the error as we passed the first close fixed point on the chart, and use the correction to adjust subsequent fixes. The average correction to apply to the ED50 position on the Norwegian Datum charts was 0.4mins of Longitude to the East. The old system of navigation marks `Vardes` consisting of towers of black stones, often with a white stripe or band, is still maintained and marked on the charts. They are well placed and conspicuous and still make excellent steering marks. See NCG Pg. 10.

6.5 Weather Information.

6.5.1 Weather. We have not had enough experience on this coast to comment on the weather. In our period on the coast we had predominantly light winds and there were some periods of precipitation. We enjoyed much better weather for cruising than we experienced on the W. coast of Scotland in 2004 and that reported by others in 2005.

6.5.2 Weather Information. Obtaining weather information is a bit of a problem and requires some effort.

6.5.2.1 VHF. Weather is given over the VHF in the 4 hourly Marine Safety Information Broadcasts. Gale Warnings are given in English. Weather information is given in Norwegian and it is not easy to understand. You can generally get an idea of the wind strengths but the coastal areas to which they apply is more difficult.

6.5.2.2 NAVTEX. This was our main source of information with Orlandet `N` providing information South of Bodo and Bodo `B` providing information North of Bodo. One generally received the night transmissions but not always the day transmissions.

6.5.2.3 SSB WX FAX. We have always used Northwood to provide the 5 day picture whilst in the North Atlantic. We had good reception of Northwood (and Offenbach) until 65deg. N. Reasonable from 65deg. N. to 66deg. 20`N. Poor from 66deg. 20`N. to 68deg. 20`N., and bad, only occasional, above 68deg. 20`N. The BBC World Service reception was similar but just about readable above 68deg. 20`N. In Tromso the electric magnetic interference is so high you receive nothing.

6.5.2.4 Telephone. We got a forecast from Tromso Met Office on 7762 1300 before leaving the city.

6.5.2.5 TV. Later we met another UK yacht, who had spent many summers cruising Norway. They take their weather from the Norwegian TV Teletext service.

6.5.2.6 Internet. We had a mobile phone signal virtually where ever we went. Next time we will arrange to pick up the weather information from the Internet by mobile phone. A lot of the other cruising yachts seem to be using this system using locally purchased SIM cards in unlocked phones. The Internet site `http://www.theyr.com/free/free_moreinfo.asp` is the favourite site of the fishermen in the Northern Isles and Norway.

6.6 Tides. We never did get to fully understand the tidal flow situation on this coast. As far as we could ascertain there is no tidal atlas of the area. Norwegian yachtsmen could not provide any information and appear to ignore tidal flows except for the faster of the well known `Straumen` (Channels with strong currents). The only tidal information we could find was that given in the Admiralty Sailing Directions and in the NCG. We successfully followed the information given in the NCG Pg. 66 & 68 North of Lodingen where the flows become significant in the narrow sounds. In general the water flows inwards from the Atlantic turning NE up the Indreleia from Low Water to High Water and SW down the Indreleia from High Water to Low Water. The Flood tide flows up the Fjords and Ebbs out of the Fjords towards the sea. If there are off lying islands and skerries the flows in/out of the Fjords can be diverted around them producing flows apparently in contradiction to the general pattern found in the Indreleia.

6.7 Dangerous Waves. On the Norwegian coast there are 23 areas that can have Dangerous waves under certain conditions. These are well documented, see NCG Coastal Danger Areas Pg. 179 and Admiralty Sailing Directions Vol. IIB Eight Ed. 1979. Supplement No. 10 Pg 5. Para. 14. The contents of these documents should be read and understood before arrival. Our experience of these areas in light winds was that the seas, whilst not remotely Dangerous, were unusually confused for the amount of wind. It could be seen that in strong winds and above they could produce Dangerous Waves according to the size of vessel being operated. In addition to the sea conditions, it appears that `Stattlandet` has wind acceleration zones. Judging by the number of gale warnings issued for the area around the headland, the problem is compounded. But to put it in perspective a Norwegian Ferry Boat Captain who sails his own traditional ketch in Scottich Waters regularly advises that these areas should not be a problem to UK sailors used to assessing and dealing with the conditions found between the North coast of Scotland and Shetland and around Cape Wrath and Ardnamurchan Point. There is a Rescue Association (Lifeboat) escort service for pleasure craft available for certain sea areas including `Hustadvika` and `Folda`. Bearing in mind the size of Norwegian motor boats cruising the area this is a sensible precaution. A free service available to members it is not really applicable or intended for foreign cruising yachts that arrived in Norway on their own bottoms. Bearing in mind the conditions in these Dangerous Wave areas and the size of Norwegian motor boats and inshore fishing boats, Gale Warnings are issued for Beaufort Force 7. (Stiv Kuling).

6.8 Pilotage and Cruising Information. We carried the following sources of information.

6.8.1 Admiralty Sailing Directions. Norway Pilot. Vol. IIB & IIIA. (V0l. IIIB should have been carried). We found these useful for tidal flow information and descriptions of potential anchorages. They require the latest supplements which should be referred to. The indexing system and differences in spelling chart names when using Norwegian charts makes them rather frustrating to use.

6.8.2 The Norwegian Pilot. Den Noske Los. Vols. 4 & 5. (Vol. 6 should have been carried). Up to the 1990 edition, the text of the publication was in both Norwegian and English. In the latest editions, starting in 2000, the text is in Norwegian. However these editions have much better chartlets and photographs and despite of the difficulties in fully understanding the text, we found these most useful.

6.8.3 Norwegian Cruising Guide. 2nd Edition -1996. This publication is now somewhat out of date with its information and presentation. However it is still most useful, worth having and studying prior to setting off as well as being a constant reference source during the cruise. We met a yacht collecting information for a 3rd edition but the collector had no idea of a proposed publication date.

6.8.4 Redningsselskapet “Fernie & Fritids - Havner” (4th Ed. Yellow). Roughly translated as “Rescue Association Guide to Guest Harbours”. Contains diagrams, photographs and information on 500 Norwegian guest harbours. Each has a small section in English. Normally obtained by joining the NSSR for a year (NOK 500).

6.8.5 Cruising in Norway 3rd Editions. 2004. Cruising Association - Cruising Information Service Publication. Available to members of the Cruising Association. Provides useful information.

6.8.6 Total Tide. Tidal Software package from Admiralty Charts & Publications. Conventional Norwegian Tide Tables are available.

6.9 Diesel. The supply of Diesel was at first somewhat of a problem. Many diesel outlets for small craft have unattended credit card operated pumps. Unfortunately these pumps do not recognise as valid UK Credit/Debit cards inspite of the banks ATM`s recognising them. Similarly many retail outlet card machines do not recognise UK cards. We always carried enough cash to refuel and looked for a commercial ships attended bubker facilities for supply.

6.10 Cooking Gas . This seems to give the usual problems for long distance cruising yachts away from home. Fortunately we have a large gas locker that takes two 12kg cylinders, enough for 6 months so we do not have a problem with a summer cruise. We did meet other cruising yachts having problems. Only propane is readily available in Norway. In general you cannot get foreign bottles refilled in another country and the carriage of bottles in a public service vehicle (including taxis) is generally prohibited. If you cannot carry enough for your cruise, be prepared to change to the local system (carry the necessary piping etc.), externally stern mounting the bottle if required. The strategy should be planned before departure.

6.11 Clothing. We did not feel particularly cold during the Norwegian phase of our cruise. Normal warm (3 layer system available and used occassionaly) clothing, with gloves and hats, plus waterproof clothing when required was adequate. We did not use the vessels Ebspacher heater whilst in Norway. However one UK yacht who sailed direct to Bodo in mid May, when there was still lying snow, found it necessary to purchase fisherman’s thermal one piece working suits to provide adequate protection.

6.12 Victuals. We found that the supermarkets in the towns visited adequate - on a par with those you find on the West ocast of Scotalnd nowdays. One can budget that supermarket prices are 70% more expensive that in the UK. Already knowing these facts we victualed our vessel for 4 months with tinned and dry goods before departure and only purchased fresh produce whilst in Norway. Since we are only occasional drinkers we sailed as a dry ship to avoid any customs or social problems, as well as to keep the voyage within budget by avoiding purchases in Norway. Opportunities to dine out are limited to the larger centres. Menus are generally restricted to seafood, and did not provide, what we considered, a reasonable degree of value for money.

6.13 Photography. We are not experienced photographers but feel it worth while to mention that despite of it being mid summer the sun only reaches a low elevation. Therefore if it is planned to visit and photograph certain well known features such as the Svartizen Glacier and Trollfjord, one needs to plan ones timing to avoid having to shoot directly into a low sun.

7 Conclusions.

7.1 Whilst the Lofoten Islands are the most popular and fashionable destination for foreign cruising yachts, the Norwegian yachtsmen consider the mainland coast from Rorvik to Lodingen more spectacular. We would agree with them

7.2 The North Norwegian coast makes a fine cruising destination for those whose interests are cruising in the broad sense of the word, pilotage, fishing and viewing magnificent scenery. For those whose cruising interests centre around performance sailing, dining/wining ashore and socialising, this destination might be less satisfying. It suits our cruising interests and we intend to make further cruises on this coast.