Flying Fish Articles

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Scorpio - Cruiser 's Paradise Lost?

Reports covered in the above website:
Uligan (Uligamu) – 07°04.80'N, 72°55.10'E
Haa Dhalu, Khulhuddufushi – 06°36.50'N, 73°04.00'E
Goidhoo – 06°25.70'N, 72°55.08'E
Dholhiyaddhoo – 05°59.50'N, 73°13.35'E
Kuredhoo island – 05°32.60'N, 73°27.80'E
Varihura island – 05°18.06'N, 73°29.40'E
Makunudhoo – 04°32.45'N, 73°24.46'E
Hulumale island harbour – 04°12.89'N, 73°31.70'E
Velassaru – 04°06.90'N, 73°26.00'E


Uligamu.
Uligamu, one of the most northerly of the Maldive Islands, is now a recognised stopping point for yachts on passage across the Indian Ocean. There you will find Immigration, Customs, Health and Port officials to handle the formalities of Entry and Departure.

Approaching from the south east you will probably not see any sign of land until you are about seven miles away, for these islands are at most a few metres above sea level. C-Map appeared to be accurate.

Assuming your passage is being made during the NE Monsoon, round the southern tip of Uligamu Island half a mile off and head up the west side for the anchorage, the co-ordinates for which are given above. The fringing coral reef will show clearly if the light is good. You will need plenty of scope as depths over the stony bottom run to 20 metres or so. Once we had backed down on the anchor the holding was good.

The officials normally come out to you so be patient until they arrive. The ones who welcomed us were neatly uniformed and spoke excellent English. The process of checking in was brief and efficient and the paperwork not too daunting. Then we were free to go ashore, but first we had to read a short list of “Do’s and Don’ts”” while ashore. These covered dress, a complete ban on alcohol, on inviting islanders aboard and on giving presents.

You take the dinghy to the beach on the south side of the wooden jetty. A post marks a gap through the coral – leave it to port. As you step ashore you will probably be met by a young male islander who will introduce himself and offer to show you around. Our guide seemed a little shy but proudly led us on a brief tour of the village, home to some 500 souls.

We were charmed by the coral block houses, each with a walled garden, and standing on clean sandy streets. We later learned that the ladies and girls of the village sweep the streets clean of all debris at least once every week. There were the modern offices for Immigration, Customs and the Port Captain. There was a hospital and a mosque and a school. We saw three or four small shops selling groceries, fruit and vegetables but we were told that we should shop in just the one, coincidentally owned by the family of our guide. We tried to buy a few provisions but the supply boat was due that evening and most of the shelves were bare.

Every time we stepped ashore our guide would materialize and accompany us – at least for the first four or five days of our stay. He didn’t ask for money or presents (although before we left we gave him some, despite the regulations) We formed the view that these rather private people like to keep tabs on their visitors, to make sure that we know how to behave and that we will respect their traditions and way of life. As they got to know us, they relaxed. We met more islanders and could walk around freely without our shadow.

One thing we could NOT do was take ALIESHA off to visit some of the other islands in the archipelago. We were told that this would require a permit only obtainable in Male, several hundred miles to the south.

The snorkelling and diving was excellent, the walk around the island stunning and with about a dozen yachts in the anchorage there was plenty of social life. One evening our guide suggested we and others came to his house for a “feast ” which we gladly did. It was a pleasant experience but quite low-key, nothing like as lively as such a gathering would have been in the Pacific or Caribbean.

Many of the islanders earn a living fishing for tuna. They fish with short lines on two or three metre long poles and work from locally built boats 20-30m long with high bows and long, low stern decks. The local magistrate cum shop-owner cum headman was building such a craft under a thatched shelter on the beach. It was amazing to see how a small team had created such a large and handsome craft with no plans at all.

We enjoyed our time on Uligamu very much. As global warming causes sea levels to rise these communities will be overwhelmed. Until that day, the islanders will continue to live a peaceful, ordered existence, welcoming visitors but concerned to preserve their way of life. We felt privileged to have shared a little of their existence which comes as close to paradise on earth as we have seen.