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Colin Speedie and Lou Johnson, S/V “Pèlerin”, report as the "European Correspondent" to Attainable Adventure cruisingPaul and Lynn, SV White HawkSV CapeReports
Al Hoceima – 35°14.80'N, 03°55.20'W
Ceuta, Marina Hercules – 35°53.50'N, 05°18.91'W
El Jebha – 35°13.00'N, 04°40.80'W
Marina Smir – 35°45.10'N, 05°20.40'W
Rabat – 34°02.50'N, 06°50.00'W
Al Hoceima
Moor (June 2010) on inside of Southern breakwater opposite the ferry berth, rafting as necessary. Not much by way of facilities but we didn 't pay (only there one night) anything.
Formalities on arrival carried out on the boat (8 people in all) on arrival and can be a bit protracted; even more so on leaving, especially if trying to depart early in the morning when you have to find the police (in Gare Maritime - find caretaker if no one there) and immigration/customs (big blue building). In the latter case, it may be locked if early morning but persevere, there is someone there (his bed is next to his desk). All very good humoured if you keep your cool.
Ceuta, Marina Hercules
Ceuta is a nice place not really done justice by the pilots or guide books. Appart from the cost of fuel, it is in some respects superior to Gibraltar. The fortifications, the Murales Reales, have been very well restored and are well worth the time to visit.
Marina Hercules had, in June 2010, plenty of room for visitors of around 12m or less, particularly mid-week. The visitors ' berths are on the eastern end of the marina infront of the marina offices (portacabins). Mooring is to fingers which are rather short. The (men 's) facilities leave much to be desired; only one working shower and take your own loo roll - it 's a long walk back!
If bound for Marina Smir, there is a Spanish firing range that goes some 12 miles out to the east of Pta Almina. If in use, the Guarda Civil will intercept you as you leave Ceuta and not let you turn east.
El Jebha
The 'real ' Morocco with a slightly 3rd World feel to it but friendly with a couple of inexpensive cafe/restaurants.
Moor on the first row of boats inside the entrance, re-mooring the partially deflated (June 2010) police black RIB outside you. You 'll probably be the only yacht. Really wouldn 't think of anchoring - though small, this is a fairly busy fishing harbour with an active fleet.
May have to 'eyeball ' your way in - my chart plotter didn 't even show the place.
Marina Smir
Formalities not onerous here.
A possible place to winter a boat although not much there if living aboad.
Tetouan is worth a visit. Local taxi drivers will take you there for 30 Euros return, collecting you at a time and place you specify. It pays to do some homework though and be specific about where you want to be taken otherwise he will whistle up his mates to meet you when you arrive and you 'll be under some pressure to engage one as a guide.
Best thing might be to insist on being taken to the tourist office in, I think, Boulevard Mohammed V and engage one of the official guides.
Rabat
1) Information Submitted by Don Davis & Priscilla Clark – Chautauqua
2) Date 22/10/08
3) Harbour or Area Covered Include Lat & Long Rabat, Morocco; Bouregreg Marina; 34 02.5N, 006 50.5W just outside of mouth of river
4) Suitability and Attraction for Yachts. Include details of relevant web sites Safe and secure new marina next to the capital of Rabat
5) Marinas, Berthing or Anchorage Bouregreg Marina; no anchoring seems feasible as much dredging and construction now under way
6) Entry Ports Bouregreg Marina is a port of entry; customs and immigration clearance dock on port side is just before the turn into the marina itself ATTENTION – THE MARINA WILL SEND OUT THEIR INFLATABLE TO GUIDE YOU IN TO THE CUSTOMS DOCK, AND THEN TO YOUR SLIP; CALL ON VHF 10; AVAILABLE 24/7; BEST TIME TO ENTER IS ON A RISING TIDE NEAR HIGH TIDE; we arrived at 4am in total darkness!
a) from/to same country check in on customs pontoon; check out – go to office with papers b) from/to abroad check in on customs pontoon; check out – go to office with papers c) visa requirements none required for American, Canadian and most EU citizens
8) Location/Existence of:
a) harbour master office is at head of the marina complex
b) customs/immigration dock and office at head of the marina complex
c) health authorities none observed
d) police office is at head of the marina complex
9) Control of Foreign Yachts both check in and check out required. Check in done on customs reception pontoon; check out-go over to the office prior to leaving; advise of next destination, and bring ships papers, passports and the blue and white copies of the “Declaration D 'entree et de Sortie Des Bateaux de Plaisance” (cruising permit)
10) Attitude of Officials to Visiting Yachtsmen Extremely welcoming. The king is investing heavily to further develop a tourism industry; this includes the Bouregreg Marina development, adjacent housing, villas, shops, new tram and train lines, restaurants. A new marina is under construction in Casablanca, but is years away from completion.
11) Repair/Hauling Facilities Travel lift basin is finished; but no travel lift yet installed.
12) Sailing Directions or Charts The marina is on the Oued Bou Regreg River, between the sister cities of Rabat and Sale. Both the customs dock and the marina entry, are on the port side. The marina will send out an inflatable pilot boat when contacted on VHF 10, 24/7 and guide you to the cutsoms dock. Once cleared in, the marina inflatable will then guide you to your slip and assist with dock lines.
13) Cruising Guide and where Obtainable. Include Phone and/or E-Mail
14) Port Radio Services VHF 10 – manned 24/7
15) Weather Forecasts posted by marina office
16) Yacht Club(S) Sailing club at end of basin with sculls, day sailing and other instruction being given to the younger generation
17) Other Facilities:
a) drinking water at each pontoon, there is a water and electric pedestal – plugs are standard 220V 16 amp EU style
b) fuel Premium diesel available within the harbor or regular diesel can be jerry canned from Shell station in Sale.
c) gas (propane)/gaz Butane available from the Sale Shell station; camping gas from the hypermarket in Rabat
d) chandlers Excellent hardware store, including inox(stainless) fasteners on street along the left side of the Tulip Fara Hotel. There are many local craftsmen, doing woodworking, metal working, etc. Their awareness of the marina and the opportunity for increased business is still developing.
e) bank Atms – cash machines- throughout Rabat and Sale
f) shops/market Marjan hypermarket, in shopping mall, about 10-15 minute walk from marina along main road towards Rabat
g) restaurants/hotels restaurant within marina complex - many, many local restaurants throughout Rabat and Sale
h) post office/telephones including mobile facilities main post office in Rabat; as well as Fed Exp available; smaller post office also in Sale
i) internet cafes free wifi throughout marina pontoons
j) best mailing address email: bouregregmarina@bouregreg.gov.ma snail mail: Bouregreg Marina, Bab Mrissa Quartier Rmel, Avenue de Fes – Sale, Maroc; tel: 212 37 21 74 35; fax: 212 37 70 48 55
k) showers showers and head in brown building on the promanade
l) laundry washer and dryer facilities by heads; use tokens available at the marina office
m) transport/air services train service is excellent to other parts of the country; major airport is Casablanca; small airport by Sale
n) medical facilities/hospital local hospital and dentist available in Sale – 5 minute walk from marina
18) Recommendations or Warnings A very secure facility as the King 's power boats and a 80+ foot Hatteras fishing power boat belonging to the royal family of Abu-Dabi are kept here. So there is much security, but all are very friendly and courteous beyond any expectations. Secure location to leave the boat for the winter.
19) Other Information – please include here general impressions, opinions, comments or any other matter which might be of use to those visiting. This is a brand new facility, with much adjacent development to continue for the next few years. All personnel are extremely anxious to please visiting yachts. Access to the marina is restricted through a main gate, maned 24/7. In the early evening, locals enjoy walking along the main promenade off of which are the gangways to the 6 pontoons. Each main pontoon has finger pontoons between boats. Non boaters are not allowed onto the pontoons and this is maintained by the security personnel.
Locals, however, are extremely friendly and are as curious about the boats as we are about them. French is widely spoken; English less so. But it has been easy to start up a conversation. There is an excellent bakery in Sale, as well as a covered market, just past the Shell station, up the street and around the corner of the Medina. Just past the bakery, there are at least 3 ATM machines dispensing local currency – Dirhams. Both Rabat and Sale have Medinas, and many, many shops, both free standing and in the numerous souks. The covered market is the white building across from the bakery and park. The market has meats, vegetables and fruits. The veggies and fruits are a better quality than that in the Marjan hypermarket in Rabat.
DRESS CODE When we inquired as to dress code, especially for Priscilla, the marina director made a strong point of saying that this is Morocco, NOT the Middle East. They pride themselves on the level of diversity they have and are accustomed to tourists. But as a common courtesy to the local citizens, when leaving the marina, Priscilla would wear long pants and short sleeve tops; I would wear shorts or ¾ length pants. Mine were made by a local tailor after I purchased the material at a local shop.
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