Flying Fish Articles

PLEASE NOTE THE FOLLOWING INFORM\\TION DATES FROM 1992 AND HAS NOT BEEN UPDATED SINCE!

SOME CRUISING NOTES ON THE Solomon Islands

From 50 - 110 S to 1540 - 1620 E approx.

SS

Richard Masterton-Smith - 1992- YACHT - BALICEAUX
ENTRY & CUSTOMS PROCEDURES

There are only 4 ports of entry at present, and clearance prior to landing is strictly required and checks are made at some intermediary spots. Stops for a couple of days under force majeure are tolerated but landing is prohibited. There is a fee levied on entry but Customs will give you a fair exchange rate if you have not managed to change to Solomon Island dollars.

Normal Health, Immigration and Customs formalities are undertaken on board, but it is usual to have to go ashore to contact them. A visa for 4 months will be issued and this can, for a small fee, be renewed for 2 months more. This should be done in Honiara otherwise passports will have to be sent there. Having entered there is no further contact required with the authorities until departure, unless you want duty free goods.

Large quantities of liquor will be sealed on board. It is a good idea to arrive well supplied since alcohol is very highly priced in the Solomons. The seals are not generally checked again, nor is there really much of a search.
CHARTS

BA Charts 3994, 3995, 3996, 3997 & 3998. Aus. Chart 399. In Honiara a selection of photocopied local charts is available at the Lands & Survey office in the Government compound near the PO.
MONEY

There are very limited exchange facilities outside Honiara and Gizo. However ANZ and Westpac are represented in these centres for all transfers, exchange, Visa & Mastercard advances.
POST, TELEPHONE & COMMUNICATION

The postal system can be erratic. We found the best address in Honiara was:- c/o Point Cruz Yacht Club, Honiara. You should still go to General Delivery since yachts’ mail is often just kept there. General Delivery, Gizo, is far better, being much smaller. The telephone exchange offers a good, quite cheap system . Faxes can also be sent but the prices suffer from a 3 minute minimum. If you can find an alternative (eg Adventure Sports, Gizo) it is preferable.
HEALTH

There are no vaccination requirements. Medical attention outside Honiara and Gizo is virtually non-existent. Fees for private consultants are reasonable. The hospitals are adequate but, if possible, insurance coverage should be taken for emergency flights to Australia.

Malaria is omnipresent and very serious throughout the group. Untreated cerebral malaria can kill within days. Locals and ex-pats living in the area for over 6 months usually take no prophylactic treatment. When they get malaria they take a rest and are put on a course. Visitors and yachtsmen generally take the weekly course. This has some long term contra-indications and has been found to adversely affect some people’s sight. Nor is it a preventative; you will contract malaria but in a far milder way, so much so that you will not realise it until it recurs months later that you have had it. On arrival in Honiara, go to the Plaza chemist for a supply of a full cure plus all the valuable advice he can give. Best way to avoid malaria is to stay on board at dusk and dawn, use screens and ‘Deed’ on your skin & wear long clothes. Beware of tropical ulcers, look after every little cut so that it does not go septic.
WATER

Water was no problem either for safety or availability. We filled up in Honiara in the port and at a number of stops in the group without any bother.
INTERNAL TRAVEL

Apart from the Sta. Cruz islands the group is well serviced by the local airline. Getting from the towns with the airports is not so easy. You will generally need to use motorised canoes, which are expensive.
FUEL

Diesel is only available in Honiara and Gizo. Duty free supplies are available only in Honiara on clearance out for vessels over 35 tons. Fuelling takes place in the commercial port. The best company to use is Mobil, you can lie off the end of the jetty with a bow anchor. Gasoline is available from the pump in the main centres but very rarely off the beaten track. Propane is available from Boral next to P.C.Y.C, fill up in Honiara as supplies in Gizo are very poor.
LOCAL INFORMATION

The people are Melanesian. They vary considerably within the group from the blond, copper-skinned, enterprising Malaitans to the very dark skinned, easy going Santa Isabellans. pidgin is spoken universally, most speak excellent English in addition to local dialects. In some areas there are traditional burial sites which are tabu for women to approach. Large fines can be claimed for abuse so it is worthwhile to ask about them. In a few places the kastom owners will ask for some kind of payment for anchoring, it is a bit of a try-on which can usually be settled with some twist tobacco. Thievery is very rare and will usually only happen if you leave possessions lying around. You will often be surrounded by canoes, particularly on arrival somewhere, you will generally not be boarded without permission and a little polite firmness will solve any problems.
TRADING

Outside of Honiara, Gizo and Morovo lagoon, barter replaces cash with few exceptions. Bearing in mind that some of the outlying islands get only an annual visit by a trading vessel, these islanders can not get bare staples and clothes even though they have the money to pay for them. They do have on offer an endless supply of vegetables, fruit, fish and seafood. What they basically need is sugar, flour, rice, tobacco (very cheap Spear rolling tobacco available in main centres as well as twist tobacco), tins of SI bonito, bully beef, soap, and shampoo. They also need clothes - T shirts, shorts, sheets, sewing gear. Generally we traded food for food (a good supply of lollies for the children ensures that they keep you well supplied from their parents’ garden), and clothes and other items for carvings, shells etc.

SANTA CRUZ ISLANDS (Temotu Province)

VANIKORO IS. Definitely worth a visit despite the possible immigration problem. Many boats stopped there without hassles. As with other places ask if they are going to report you by radio; if yes and they take the yacht’s name, do not go ashore. Merely tell them to advise the authorities of mechanical failure or whatever. The best entrance is through the NE channel, which is deep and wide. Further west at Ngara Island there is another good entrance. There is a hurricane hole south of the NE passage but it is a fair way from any settlement, especially Buma Village. Here you will meet the local clerk who is delightful company and will give you the history of the island and some good anecdotes about the La Perouse wrecks.
UTUPUA ISLAND

Arrivals are all reported to Graciosa bay by radio. There is little of interest in the deep mangrove bays, but it is an excellent hurricane hole. Watch out for uncharted bombies on the way in.
SANTA CRUZ ISLAND (NDENDE) - Graciosa Bay

The best anchorage is just to the west of the shoal in the channel into Graciosa Bay. anchorage is very difficult on the west side of the bay and the jetty is out of bounds. By anchoring in the cut you have a short trip ashore to a beach from which you can make your way to the village to get the officials. You will be asked for your light fees etc., and if you do not have SI$ you should be given a fair rate of exchange. There is an ex-pat who will exchange further sums which you may need for the trip to Honiara. Reasonable market at the jetty on Sat mornings but if you arrive after 0630 there will be nothing left. There are one or two anchorages on the E side of Graciosa Bay but you may be asked for extortionate kastom fees for their use. Santa Cruz has little to recommend it; the climate is ghastly, there has been some thievery from yachts, but we met some charming villagers. We did not visit Reef island, some friends did and had a pleasant stay. Very crowded.

MAKIRA PROVINCE, (ST. CRISTOBAL ISLAND)

SANTA ANA ISLAND is regarded as one of the best stops in the group. Very good anchorage in Santa Maria Bay. the people are friendly and interesting. a lake to visit and a kastom village on the other side of the island. Some carvings for trade. If you have not cleared in, it is worth knowing that the police may come over from Star Harbour to check papers.

STAR HARBOUR To be avoided unless it is needed as a hurricane hole. Terrible mosquitoes and flies, incessant rain. Some thievery.
GUADALCANAL ISLAND

MARAU SOUND. The best and most beautiful anchorage is at Tavanipupu Island. Depending on the space available you may need a stern line ashore to the next island. The Humphries, who live on the island, give a warm welcome to visitors from yachts, and are a mine of information on the Solomons. They will also give you details of the local kastom. The rest of the island is used as a small, exclusive resort, well worth a visit. Locals offer a variety of excellent shells, shell-money and ornaments, either for cash or kind. Care should be taken while diving, the currents are strong and the water is sometimes murky. The locals are very possessive about their shells.
HONIARA

Anchorage. Depends on the season but the Point Cruz Y.C. can become impossible during the monsoon. Best to run a stern line ashore to the concrete breakwater. In monsoon months you will often have to use the commercial port and a quick exit will sometimes have to be made from P.C.Y.C. The Club will give you a warm welcome with no charges, good showers, laundry facilities and icy beer. A reasonable and adequate lunch. For sundowners use lots of repellent, the ditch on the side of the club is a notorious malaria breeding ground.

Most goods are available but not all the time, nor in the same place. Some foraging will be necessary. Local beef and pork are reasonable value. Imported vegetables are very pricey. Good range of cans, but not cheap. Chinatown has a few supermarkets in addition to those in town. Honiara has an excellent, very reasonable municipal market which is open daily. Saturday is the best. Apart from the usual tropical produce in abundance, the bush nuts are a good buy.

FLORIDA ISLANDS (Nggela, pronounced Gayla)

You will feel considerable relief at escaping Honiara safe and sane!

Tulagi Shipyard. Can handle small boat haul outs and has full workshop facilities, paint etc. Apart from that, there is nothing to recommend it. The anchorage is deep, foul and you will be surrounded by tuna boats.

Ghavutu Island, lying a few miles east, is a pleasant stop. With a fairly deep anchorage it is well protected, once being a WW11 seaplane base with wharf and pens still intact. You will need to sneak in until you reach the shelf, which is quite close in.

Tokoyo Bay is an excellent anchorage, right up at the end of the inlet in a small bay with the wreck of a Japanese destroyer high and dry on the shore. The scenery is spectacular with dense rain forest and abundant bird life. En route you can stop at the wreckage of an American tank carrier. At the entrance to the bay, on the eastern side is another large marine workshop with a very competent Kiwi in charge. They can, for very modest rates, do anything mechanical. No haul out facilities.

Waterway to Shiota. Fascinating run between big and small Nggela. Near entrance to waterway is sweet water from a WW11 tap which can moor up to. Ask a local where it is. A kasstom owner may ask for something, a twist of tobacco should please. The Shiota area is very populous and, I understand, can be overbearing with all the visitors. Best avoided in favour of Anuha, a few miles west, where fair anchorage can be had close to the beach on the eastern side of the island. A former luxury resort, which mysteriously burnt, it still takes guests into its bures from Honiara and even has a small grass runway in the coconut trees. Most of the time there is no-one there apart from a small family, who are the custom owners. There is an idyllic beach and excellent diving, both scuba and snorkel on Anuha Wall and Barracuda Point. Friendly locals from the main island will visit initially in large numbers with all kinds of produce for trading. The Florida Group has some of the highest incidence of malaria in the Solomons so precautions should be taken. Close by there is a very well protected anchorage on the main island. After anchoring it is appreciated if you tramp to the other side of the island (10 mins) to get the caretaker’s permission. We had our spear guns stolen when we left them in the dinghy overnight, though one was later returned (we were there for over a month).

Sandfly Passage is subject to very strong currents. We did not explore much but there has been thievery reported. It might be worth looking at the villages on the main island. There are no satisfactory anchorages on the south coast back to Tulagi.
RUSSELL ISLANDS

We only visited the main village at the Lever plantation. I believe there is a possible anchorage in the western group. Very friendly welcome. Cheap beef available Tues-Fri and tours of the estate can sometimes be arranged. Generally water too deep for good anchorage.
VANUNU ISLAND AND MOROVO LAGOON - WESTERN PROVINCE

The eastern passes are deep and wide, but once in the lagoon it is very tricky and eye-ball navigation is needed. There are some pleasant anchorages on the numerous cays that litter the lagoon. Those near the barrier islands can be used for diving the passes, which are spectacular for scuba or snorkel. They are also far enough away from the carving centres to get bothered by only the most persevering.

Mbili Island. Large SDA centre, their talent as carvers is outshone by their ability as merchants. Good anchorage. If you are really keen on carvings, it is worth a visit. Can not think of any other reason.

Telina Island. The rival SDA carving centre and home of Wayne John who has popularised Morovo carving. A very pleasant anchorage with water available. For the first day you will have an open market on deck but it soon dies away and you are left in peace. Fresh produce is available from the main island.

Telina-Uepi. We spent some time anchored near the pass almost due north of Telkina. There is good protection in the first bay to the west of the pass. There are plenty of crays on the ocean side at night, fewer during the day, but worth the effort. The night crays are on top of the reef, so HW is an advantage. Uepi pass is clear but the southern end is shoal. There is a pretty bay on the east side of the pass, but to get to it you need to take a careful swing around a cay to the south of the pass. Uepi is a popular dive resort with some spectacular reefs. They did not allow independent diving when we were there. You had to join up and pay your bucks.

Uepi-Lever Harbour. Navigation inside is a nightmare. We stopped at a couple of settlements on the way but they had nothing to recommend them. Poor anchorages.

Lever Harbour. Formerly a large logging enterprise, now closed and almost overgrown again. The village inside the small eastern bay is deserted and it is very deep anchoring. You should go to the main harbour, it is very well marked and deep. Head right to the bottom until you find suitable depth. A very beautiful spot, one of our favourites. You will be visited by the local constable and villagers from the community at the head of the bay.

Blackett Straits. A couple of secure logging harbours on east side of New Georgia Island. Have forgotten the name, but the more southern anchorage is the better. It also has a shallow war wreck. Ringgi Cove is very secure and would serve as a hurricane hole.

Arnavon Islands lie in Manning sound between Isabel and Choisel Islands. The eastern island has a stunning anchorage and dazzling beach. It is uninhabited but is visited by Gilbertese turtle fishermen, who are very good company. An excellent place to have some time to yourself. Very good trolling and cray fishing.
GIZO

Eastern approach is well marked and there is good anchorage in the bay at the far end of town. Provisions generally pretty good, excellent market 3 times a week on waterfront. A small butcher and supermarket on main street. Good post and communication. Adventure Sports run by Danny and Kerrie Kennedy, is the best dive operation in town and, if interested, he will take you on some excellent dives. A fine spot with some pleasant anchorages on the neighbouring cays.