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Escape on CAPEUp the River Gambia

The Gambia – 12°46.00'N, 16°36.00'W

West Africa [http://www.rccpf.org.uk/publications - Steve JonesThe RCC Pilotage Foundation [http://www.rccpf.org.uk]
Whilst living and working in the Gambia, Steve Jones and his family cruised extensively on the West Africa [http://www.rccpf.org.uk/publications coast. It soon became apparent there was an unfulfilled need for a yachtsman’s book on the area, so he set about writing one. His cruising guide covers the West Africa [http://www.rccpf.org.uk/publications coast, off -ying islands and navigable rivers from Dakar in Senegal to Guinea-Bissau. In addition to the pilotage detail it includes a wealth of information on the practicalities of cruising in this, as yet, little-known sailing area. It is designed to be a valuable guide for yachtsmen who feel encouraged to spend a while in this fascinating area when doing an Atlantic circuit or when en route to or from the South Atlantic.

PLEASE NOTE THAT THIS REPORT HAS NOT BEEN UPDATED SINCE 1998

Senegal, The Gambia AND Guinea Bissau.

This information is provided by Peter Haden, Yacht Papageno. 1997/8

He has provided this on condition that members using it should send him a postcard to:

Peter Haden, Lisheen Ballyvaughan, CO CLARE, Republic of Ireland.

The following information is derived from a winter 1997/8 spent in part of West Africa.

We departed from and returned to the Canary Islands.




Arrival in Banjul can only be on a rising tide which you will pick up from quite some distance out.

On the way south you will pass entrances to the Diamboss river system.

We entered (on a subsequent passage) at Djifere. This required careful sounding but otherwise presented no problem. A few days in this river system is worthwhile. Most nights we anchored off small French owned hotels and used their swimming pools and simple restaurants. The wild life is good, but only a fraction of what will be seen in The Gambia River and further south.

The people are more “savy” and tourist conscious. The towns are all Muslim, and with little to see. Worth seeing are the sailing pirogues. We exited the system near to Banjul after interesting navigation between the rivers. This teaches you a whole new technique of sounding from bank to bank when it gets shallow. Anything you touch is only sand or mud.

Banjul………..Anchor off the harbour leaving room for the pilot boat to come and go.

Holding is excellent in good mud. However, it can be rolly-polly, and plan on a short stay. For most convenience arrive on a weekday, otherwise you may be asked to pay unofficial supplements for clearing.

COMPLETELY IGNORE……...REPEAT COMPLETELY IGNORE all the fellows running up and down the pier even if they wear a tee shirt with “Customs” written on it. Politely walk to the police office at port entrance (You will hear the road traffic).

This is also immigration and customs. It is not necessary for the crew to go.

They may wish to visit (inspect) your boat so as to get a few cigarettes off you. Don’t give them anything else, and don’t let them bring any locals with them.

Dinghy can be safely left at the pilot boat (with permission). Capt and crew are decent types and helpful. Pilot boat engineer is excellent and will help if you have any mechanical problem.

After paperwork (quite simple) proceed to harbour office for essential river permit at small cost. They also give you river information, essential tide book, regulations and even information on the wild life. All good African gentlemen in this office.

There are no harbour dues or any other charges.

YOU DO NOT NEED A PILOT TO GO UP THE RIVER.

Just follow the charts and mostly stick in the middle !

As soon as possible depart Banjul Harbour for Denton Bridge, Oyster Creek.

This is the best and completely sheltered anchorage, and is well located for visiting the city, shops, beaches, hotels etc by local very cheap taxi.

The passage up the creek should be mostly as near high water as possible.

Depart Banjul at half tide. The entrance to the creek is 13 26 61 N and 16 36 38 W.

You will certainly hit some mud banks on the way up, but it is interesting with good bird life. Motoring time from the entrance to the anchorage is about one hour.

At Denton Bridge you will find about 10-20 boats of various types (mostly for tourist fishing and river trips,anchored or on moorings. Holding is really excellent, but the tides run strong. Leave fenders out on both sides and watch what happens to other boats at the first tide change.

Various guys ashore will be looking and thinking “here comes dinner” ie a chance to make a few bob. Don’t worry, this is a most friendly place and we had no difficulties or problems and spent a lot of time here on different occasions.

The most reliable contact is “Ba Ba” who runs the “Denton Bridge Yacht Club”.

This is a very simple outdoor bar with some food. He has a book, worth looking at, recording all the yachts that pass through.

Employ a local to get water for you from a tap across the main road, and also to carry fuel for you from the nearest filling station. We found them to be absolutely honest in every respect.

It will be suggested that you need to have someone sitting on the boat when you are away. If you do this, on no account allow them inside the boat. We found that in practice it is not at all necessary, as long as the boat is left locked.

If you make friends with Ba Ba and a few others (buy them an occasional beer or cold drink), they will look after you.

It is safe to leave your dinghy and engine ashore (daylight anyway) and I never had any problem at anytime.

However, you should always disable the engine, otherwise the locals may just borrow in an innocent way, and be surprised if you object.

Ashore, always beat down taxis to one quarter of asking price, or when possible take the local communal ones (small buses) which have fixed low prices and fixed routes.

Supermarket at Westfields and Bakau, both owned by very decent Lebanese family.

Credit cards accepted at 5% surcharge.

Special night out: Kairaba Hotel, dinner around the swimming pool, and a drink later at Wheels Night Club (UK owned, no hassle)………interesting international and local clientele.

In Banjul go for a drink or light lunch at African Crafts Centre on Wellington Street.

Entrance is narrow staircase up to an outdoor balcony. This is THE place to go.

Guinea Bissau Consul’s office is also on same level. Here you can get your visas in advance. Consul we met is an absolute gentleman and spoke perfect English.

Banjul Anglican Church worth visiting for its monuments, which tell the story of the early settlers.

To change money I recommend the money changers standing in Wellington Street. Have your calculator with you, take time, and beat him down on the rate, even though it already seems much better that the banks are offering. Get your Cefas here for Guinea Bissau. I never had any problem with these money changers.

As with all officials try not to look like a goofy tourist.

The more important you appear, the more important they feel about meeting you.

Two things to avoid in Banjul: The Tourist Market and The Atlantic Hotel.

The huge indoor African market (Albert Market) is most interesting and you DO NOT need a guide.

Sailing up the river.

This can only be done using the tides and of course the engine.

The very detailed tidal book is absolutely essential.

At first the river seems too big and uninteresting, but mile by mile it improves.

Have a good bird book (available in Banjul or at tourist hotels).

Do not stop at Jufure…..this is a tourist TRAP based on the ridiculous story of Kunta Kinte and Roots.

The lee of James Island might be a first stop.

We have twice enjoyed Kemoto where there is an hotel with large swimming pool and possibility for dinner, after negotiating long rickety pier made from sticks.

Tendaba Camp is another possibility. We enjoyed one hell of a party late into the night here.

Kuntaur is a nice small town. Anchor off the wharf and see the rice factory.

The head man (a real muslim gentleman) took me to his large house for coffee and entertained me with endless funny stories whilst the crew went by taxi to see the standing stones at Wassu.

At this point the river water is fresh and most pleasant for dipping in off the stern ladder.

The wild life gets prolific.

We swam (with caution) off the boat every day and had no problems.

Warning: Check engine water cooling filter EVERY day, as all sorts of things come in from the river.

Two really good anchorages for wild life are:

Bird Island…..we anchored on the west side…….but be there for sunset and sunrise, to see the millions of birds collecting. It is a sight you will remember for life.

Baboon Island…..most southerly point according to how you are allowed by the park warden, who will visit you in his steel flat bottomed boat. We had an introduction, and were taken ashore, but this is most unusual.

Sunset here is special and you can expect to see hippos and lots of screeching baboons, as well as lots more. The hippos make a V wave when they are wandering around below the water……..look for that, and then you will see their heads appearing.

Georgetown was as far as we went. It has a prison and a famous high school.

We ate well with other yachties we met at the camp on N.side of the river.

As with everywhere up river, you can leave your dinghy with engine on the shore.

No-one will touch it. Everyone up-river is most helpful and friendly.

We also anchored off small bathing/washing places and swam in the river with local children…….lots of hilarious fun.

Before heading south from Banjul, it is worth checking out the possibility of visiting The Casamanche, and especially going up the river to Ziguinchor (known as Zig).

There must be a Senegalese representative of some kind in Banjul, who will advise you. The town is very attractive with tree lined avenues and squares in the French fashion, and riverside cafes.

We missed it, as there was political unrest at the time, and a warship off the river entrance. I had visited it a year earlier by car.


Peter D. Haden

Yacht Papageno

losses.