Flying Fish Articles Funafuti – 08°30.84'S, 179°11.60'E
The country comprises nine inhabited and several uninhabited islands. By far the largest population is on Funafuti. Only one other island, Nukufetau, has a navigable lagoon in which yachts may anchor. Most of the islands are very low and the existence of the country is considered to be under threat by any rise in sea levels. Official clearance is straight forward involving only Customs and Immigration. Officials were helpful and professional.
08:30.840S/177:11.596E, 14m, sand & coral
Funafuti is the capital island of Tuvalu. The island is only about 8 miles long with a maximum width of 0.4 of a mile, although in some places this narrows to 200 yards. If one wishes to visit any other island in the country one must first clear in here and seek permission, which is not always given. There are several passes into the large lagoon. None are marked, though the two major passes are well and accurately charted. The most commonly used are at the northern and southern ends of the fringing reef. There are a few navigational marks within the lagoon, but some on the charts have disappeared. In good light the dangers can generally be seen. Anchorage may be found almost anywhere along the island inside the lagoon, where a space clear of coral may be found. Most protection is probably found in the area near the main wharf or somewhat to its west. This is also convenient for dinghy landing at the wharf and for the Customs office there. However, it is a long walk into town unless a friendly local gives a lift. We used bicycles. In some ways it may be more convenient to town to anchor nearer the small hotel jetty and large disused wharf, but this area is deeper and less protected. Immigration clearance must be sought at the Immigration office on the ground floor of the main government building in the town centre. Neither set of officials wished to visit the yacht. The Immigration officer wanted an immigration clearance document, something we had not come across previously. However, there seemed to be no problem that we had none and we did have exit stamps in our passports.
Water is not easily available on the island as the only source of fresh water is from rain or a small desalination plant. If you ask nicely it may be possible to get water from the Police patrol vessel, which is operated in cooperation with the Australian Defence Force and has a large water-maker. Diesel fuel is available by jerry can from the fuelling depot a short walk north of the wharf. There is no ATM on the island, though cash may be obtained with some difficulty, and at a poor rate of exchange, at the Bank of Tuvalu in the town centre. Australian dollars are used and it would be wise to bring some if planning a visit. The more educated Tuvaluans, including all the officials we met, speak English (which is an official language of the country), but most others speak only Tuvaluan.
There are numerous small shops on the island with a limited variety of supplies. The largest of these is opposite the town hall, near the large primary school to the south of the hospital. Fresh fruit and vegetables are hard to find. There is an informal market on weekday mornings for some fresh produce in the little park between the main government building and the ‘international airport’. A small amount of produce arrives from Fiji, but it has been refrigerated for some time and may not have much ‘life’ left. International telephone calls may be made from the Telecom centre opposite the main government building. There are regular flights to Fiji as well as supply ships every few weeks. Women are expected to dress discreetly and Sunday is observed quite strictly on the island.
The people of Funafuti are generally friendly, helpful and welcoming. However, the island is a challenging place to live. Quite apart from the lack of fresh water, there is little room or fertile soil for cultivation and the island is very overcrowded, so that housing is cramped and mostly fairly unattractive modern cinder-block construction. Because the island is really only a strip of coral rock with a maximum height above sea-level of about 3 metres, nothing can be buried and any hole fills up with brackish water. As a result there are above-ground graves scattered everywhere. Worse still there are piles of rubbish where ever you go. Unfortunately these problems have been exacerbated by the construction during World War II of an airstrip which took up much of the only fertile land and used coral rock dug from pits around the island. These pits are surrounded by Funafuti’s poorest housing and their brackish water is a breeding ground for mosquitoes and rats.
This all makes the island sound less than pleasant. However, we did enjoy our visit because of the welcoming and cheerful nature of the islanders.