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Ellen Zacko = Adventure travel under Sail

Manihi – 14°29.10'S, 146°00.00'W
Raiora,
Makemo,
Katiu,16°22.15'S, 144°21.42'W
Tahania,
Fakarava,
Toau
Rangiroa




Manihi is some 530 miles west of Nuku Hiva and is on the northern route between the Marquesas and Tahiti. The pass is on the south west side of the atoll and is marked by port and starboard marks. There is a mooring buoy off the entrance to the pass where one may wait for a favourable tidal stream, but in practice one of the locals will come out in a pirogue to guide you in.

On passing through the entrance, there are reefs on either side, and a cardinal mark which should be left to starboard, before turning east and following the channel - red to port, green to starboard - to the anchoring place at 14 27.884 S 146 02.090W. The anchorage is deep - 15+ metres - and there are numerous coral heads around which to tangle your anchor chain. From this anchorage, it is a short dinghy ride or a pleasant walk across the reef to the village of Paena, where bread and other provisions may be obtained. There is a computer at the post office but no wifi.

Fernando runs a pearl farm, visits to which cost 2,500 CPF but where you get to keep the pearls which come out of the oysters - very exciting! This was a very interesting experience.

It is also possible to visit the Blue Lagoon at the north east of the atoll. The channel, 7 metres deep at the shallowest point, is clearly marked with port and starboard channel markers, but once the lagoon is reached, the usual coral rules apply - keep a sharp lookout with polaroid specs.

Katiu:

The entrance form the ocean is small but well marked up to the new concrete quay. After that, entrance into the lagoon is quite tricky, we were led in this bit by a local boat and it was just lucky we arrived at near slack water. After anchoring by the quay for a short while (not recommended for long stay) We followed the local through a short two dog legged passage into the lagoon. The minimum depth we found was 2.9 metres, but the very narrow width being about 5 metres with that depth. This is between local markers number 2 and 3, after number 3 you have to turn to port a bit to avoid another 3 metre patch then you are back to 5 metres quite quickly

Several trips through with the dinghy and portable echo sounder proved this, but the passage is quite feasible, we draw 2.3 metres, so we had to ensure we got it right. We exited at slack water again. Slack seems to be for about 1 hour as far as I could tell.

We anchored at 16.22.15S 144.21.42W and 16.22.86S 144.20.01 both 12 metres, in sand and scattered coral heads.

Well worth the visit.

TUAMOTU’S

Tuamotus must be the most under rated part of FP – its brilliant and we recommend spending a good deal of time here. If given the chance again, we would head as far east as possible from the Marqueses, then maybe even work more east with suitable weather, before working west towards Tahiti. We have loved it! Charts seem pretty accurate, and tide tables also seem reasonable for predicting H & L water. During the conditions we’ve experienced, the tides turn in the passes somewhere around H&L W plus or minus half an hour. In our experience so far, all passes are navigable in reasonably settled weather at all states of the tide.

We started off at Ahe – arrived at pass about 30 mins before LW – wind with tide, flat water – 2 knots max against. Good easy buoyed route down to the village at SE corner – couple of small supermarkets (just counters and you point to what you want) and a woman who bakes donut type things – bit tasteless but I liked to go in early in the morning to meet her on her tricycle (after 7.30) and chat – also met her husband – very interesting character. Great snorkelling off the 2nd red buoy from the anchorage 14.31.5S, 146.21.5W.. We anchored inside the inner reef/lagoon near the concrete jetty for a few days at 14.32.2S, 146.21.5W. To get in here the chart is at full zoom and there is a slight discrepancy. However use you eyes and the channel markers and its obvious. A supply ship comes in so its OK. Not a lot of swinging room due to coral heads. Had to make a rapid exit when the wind did an about turn and we then went on the outside of the reef. Plenty room here and still a good anchorage. Left pass about 1 hour after LW max 4 knots (briefly) against but flat water – wind with tide.

Apataki – arrived at South pass about 30 mins after HW – 3 knots against but flat water. Our chart had no detail, so used Soggy paws WP’s and eyes. Went fine. As with all atolls with a pass on the west side, the shelter fro the prevailing E-SE winds is on the east side of the atolls. Easy route to the anchorage at the boat yard (follow soggy paws directions between pass and east side of island. i.e 100T for 3m after clearing pass, then 080T for 6-1/2 m) – Head for the boat yard which has 5 mooring buoys – free. There are a few coral heads in the last have mile or so which you can see to dodge – good snorkelling at the ‘marina’ and great snorkelling at a reef marked by a stick about a mile northwest ish of the anchorage. Alfred and Pauline with their son Tony run the boat yard – very efficiently I understand and also have a small bar and restaurant – but you have to give them a day’s notice if you want to eat. Fresh eggs available from grandma and bagguetters maybe. Lovely people. Left pass mid tide 3.5 knots against but fairly flat water. We didn’t stop at the village (at pass) but might we worth a stop. Would tie to concrete warf out of tide!

Taou – Anse Amiott – fabulous place – easy entrance any time and protected almost 360 degrees – it’s a cul-de-sac – also moorings for 500 dingbats a day or free for a week if you eat with them (If you bring them some baguettes from Fakarava, you’ll get a free mooring) – pricey meal but we thought the whole thing was worth if. Valentine and Gaston – they run a fish farm and pearl farm (but she’s giving it up) and a restaurant. She speaks good English. Great snorkelling both inside and out. Go on the outside a couple of hours after LW and on the inside (opposite side to the houses) and drift back with the dinghy on the outgoing tide. Valentine showed us how she does the pearl oysters – very interesting – and we got pearls as souvenirs – swapped a bottle of rum for a few pearls. We didn’t go but apparently it’s really nice on the inside of the atoll too – all the pearl farmers have left so there’s no-one there. Gaston has a dive buoy about half a mile north of the pass. We did a dive there but there are no tank filling facilities.

Fakarava – arrived NW pass half tide on flood wind against tide bit choppy but not bad 2 knots against. We went in at the north and stayed at the village a few days at 16.03.5S, 145.37.3W – no good snorkelling but we did a couple of dives with dive fakarava – swiss guy – Serge – and French wife – Corrine – great couple and great dives. They also filled our tanks. This gave us enough confidence with the sharks and after that we did all our diving alone. Also N pass dive is quite a long boat ride, too far for dinghy, so need to do it with shop. S pass on the other hand is close and easily done on own. Since you will likely come via S pass first, probably no need to dive N pass, but still spectacular! Also used their internet FOC. Small supermarket and bakery – good provisioning but crap veges and fruit – boat comes in on Thursday and fresh veges are available at the little stall past the supermarket but they were expensive and not good quality. Can get diesel and petrol directly off the supply boat. Might have to get some people together and share 50 gal drum, but that was not necessary when we were there – ask Serge from the dive shop how it works. Seems to be cruisers meeting place when ship arrives. Sailed (to windward) half way down to S pass for the night at 16.15.5S, 145.32.8W – Keep pretty much to the north channel to dodge the numerous pearl farms for the first 10 miles – but lovely anchorage – great beach and clear water. Next day we beat down the middle of the atoll off piste with no problem. The few shallow spots were easily spotted and avoided. At the south pass we anchored at 16.30.4S, 145.27.5W lots of coral and started buoying anchor chain about every 10-15m. Works great – see soggy paws for sketch. We clip the buoys onto the chain with a carabina while the chain still on the deck. The buoy is on a length of rope about half the depth. Do final tidying up by snorkel latter if necessary. Usually drop anchor on small sand patch, but nice to have it hook a piece of coral, then can keep scope to minimum to avoid wraps. Stay far enough towards shore to stay completely out of strong current in pass. Fantastic snorkelling and diving. Matthieu at Topdive shop (100m from the boat) will fill your tank for 1000 dingbats. Take the dinghy to the buoy in the north side of the pass and drift back along the north shore close to the buildings – either snorkel or dive – amazing – dive the wall of sharks from the same start point by going initially towards mid channel before coming back up towards the north side and sweeping around north channel to anchorage. Drift right back to the boat. Good snorkelling all around. We went first to the anchorage which soggy paws recommends but it was too far away form the pass so moved the next day to the one above. Great dinner in the restaurant – also good place to chill with a beer. Left through S Pass at HW. Tide was already ebbing fast, but flat and easy. Charts all seem pretty good and accurate.

Tahanea – entered middle pass (Teavatapu) mid ebb. 2.5 knots against. There were slight overfall but nothing significant, however by staying to the east side of the pass we had pretty flat water – nothing on deck. Anchored to north west of pass at 16.51.8S, 144.41.5W. Well protected from NW through to SE. Much more sand here but still used buoys as find it very easy to do now. Great place – uninhabited island – very unspoilt – loads of massive fish – gruoupers like whales! Snorkelled the middle pass but not too interesting. Snorkelled the other passes – west one was very fast – pretty coral patch in the middle. East pass better – dinghied over with a picnic and spent the day on the other motu between snorkelling. Best one of the 3. On the inside of the middle pass (south of the anchorage) good snorkelling also a good reef to the west of the anchorage between the 2 passes.

Matt and Jean Findlay

Superted V (Beneteau 57)