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Mike Bickell - GrandPa’s Voyages

PLEASE NOTE THAT THE FOLLOWING INFORMATION DATES FROM 1989. [color=#ff0000]USE WITH CAUTION[/color]

MJ PILLING Yacht "Jane Ann" July/August 1989

General

The Seychelles are an attractive group of islands extending from Aldabra and Assumption in the south, through the Amirantes, to the main Seychelles Bank, to Bird Island in the North. The main group of islands, containing the main islands of Mahe, Praslin, Silhouette and La Digue, lie on the abovementioned Seychelles Bank which extends between the parallels of 3°40 'S and 6°35 'S and between the meridians 53°56 'E and 57°10 'E. At the edges the bank and outlying islands are composed of coral, but the main islands are granite, as are the rock outcrops around them.

Maximum depths over the bank do not often exceed 50 metres and are regularly much shallower, especially on the northern rim. There are quite a number of rocks awash some distance from a few of the islands and great care is needed when navigating among them. There are also many coral heads in shallower water when approaching several of the anchorages.

As is so often the case, a very small minority of yachtsmen has occasionally abused the hospitality of the islands and as a result, regulations and charges have grown more onerous over the years. However, provided one observes their rules, once out in the islands away from Mahe, the officials are generally very lenient in their interpretation of the regulations.

There is a daily standing charge of Rs 50 per yacht under 20 G.R.T. and Rs 100 for over 20 G.R.T., from the time the yacht books in to Mahe, which is the only port of entry, to the time she leaves. This, at the exchange rate prevailing in June August 1989 (Rs 8.9 = £1 Sterling), is about £6 12 per day.

In general, prices for just about everything are high and fresh vegetables are both difficult to get and sometimes astronomical in price. However parts may be imported duty free for the sole use of visiting craft and goods such as outboards may be purchased duty free at a very favourable price.

We visited the islands from June to August which is at the height of the SouthEast monsoon, when conditions are sometimes boisterous but never seriously windy. As a result, some of the anchorages were quite swelly and one needs plenty of scope and swinging room to stay in place. However, as we planned our passages round the different islands to take advantage of the constant SSE winds, some excellent sailing was enjoyed. Another thing one soon notices is that all the galvanising disappearing from the anchor chain, due to constant movement over the coral and stone bottoms another expense! Despite all the above seemingly adverse comments, the people here are genuinely friendly and helpful and we really enjoyed our cruise of some three months round the islands and would like to return to do some more serious scuba diving in the NE monsoon.

The main income for the islands is derived from tourism and tunny fishing, with some 100 large modern boats operating out of Victoria, complete with all mod cons including helicopters for spotting the fish. They were estimated at taking some 500,000 tonnes of fish per annum, a huge amount that we found hard to believe, but if true then it cannot last long! They also grow many spices for export including cinnamon, vanilla, saffron, pepper, cloves and nutmeg. They also grow tea and coffee.

A useful, but expensive (Rs 120), little guidebook, entitled "Seychelles in your Pocket" is available in several languages.

Entry Formalities/Visits to other Islands

Victoria is the only port of entry for the Seychelles and surrounding islands, including Aldabra and the Amirante Islands. If arriving for the first time, call up the port control tower on Channel 16 and they will direct you to anchor on a bearing of about 295? from the Victoria Lighthouse and await the Health, Security, Immigration and Customs authorities who come out by boat to clear you. They were out to us within the hour.

We were given no hassle whatsoever, but the Security Official took a careful look around the boat, we assumed he was searching for arms etc. Following the recent coup attempts, they are extremely sensitive about arms and we would strongly recommend that you declare any you have on board. Spearguns are prohibited incidentally. Also, being free of rabies, they do not allow any pets to be landed here or at any of the islands, but they can presumably be kept on board.

Having been cleared, one has 24 hours to report to the Port Office, where they register your arrival and relieve you of the ship 's registration book. They also needed one crew list.

Immigration initially issue a visa for 14 days on arrival and if you wish to stay longer, it pays to apply to have this extended immediately as it takes up to ten days to get. They extended our visas for a month at a time. This is free for the first three months but subsequent three month periods cost Rs 200.

If any of the crew are leaving here they need a letter from the Skipper of the yacht stating this and that they will be staying on board until the relevant departure date. Likewise, if you have crew joining then a letter to Immigration is required informing them of the names and dates and method of arrival etc. They then need booking onto the yacht at both Immigration and at the Port within 24 hours.

If you wish to leave for another island on the Seychelles Bank, you should go to the Port Office (open Monday to Friday 0800 1200 and 1300 1600) and tell them your proposed route and the dates. These details will be written down on a form and a yellow copy given to you. This has to be signed by the police on the islands on arrival and again on departure. If there are no Police, as on Frigate, Denis, Bird etc, then the Island Manager should sign. On your return to Victoria the form should be handed in within 24 hours of arrival, or you may deposit it at the Mahe Quay Police Station if it 's a Public Holiday/weekend. You may book out on a Friday if you wish to leave over the weekend. The time schedule you make out on this form need not be strictly adhered to and may be altered at any time by asking the Police to ring the Port Authorities for their approval.

Each and every time a yacht leaves Victoria, be it only for a day, a clearance has to be obtained and a fee of Rs 50 paid. When ready to leave, call the Port Control Tower and inform them. They will in turn arrange for a security officer to board, usually from the Fishing Wharf on the North entrance. They normally ask you to go alongside, but there is often no room and, if they agree, it 's best to send the tender to collect him. He will ask you to fill in a special crewlist, with all passport details etc, so it 's as well to have all relevant information ready.

If you plan to visit the Amirantes, you must first visit the Island Development Corporation, situated on the North side of Latanier Road before the Port Security gate. Ask for a Mrs Mellor who will give you written authority to visit the islands. They charge a landing fee of Rs 20 per person per island unless you intend to stay at the hotels. The letter is then taken to the Port Authority who issues the yellow form.

There are only a limited number of places you may anchor at night, whilst in the Seychelles. These are:

Mahe: Port Victoria Only

Praslin: Bay St Anne or Cote d 'Or

La Digue: La Passe (Within 1 mile of the shore)

Frigate, Denis and Bird: within 3 miles of the shore.

All other outlying islands further than 60 miles from Mahe: within 3 miles of the shore.

Sillouette, North, Curieuse and other smaller islands within a range of 60 miles of Mahe have no allowed anchorages, but it might be possible to obtain permission.

On finally leaving the Seychelles it takes 48 hours or to complete formalities, so start early. It is possible to visit Aldabra on the way out to another country, such as Tanzania/Kenya. Immigration must be officially informed in writing and then a letter obtained from a Mr Willy Andre, of the Seychelles Island Foundation, addressed to the Manager of the island, Mr Victorin Laboudallon, on payment of Rs 100 each. We also wrote to the Chief of Security in Victoria requesting permission to go that way and received an official letter authorising us to call at the Amirantes and Aldabra.

We also applied for permission to call in at the Amirantes, but although Security, Immigration and the Port Authorities were happy with this, it is the policy of the I.D.C. Director not to allow yachts to call there unless they are again returning to Victoria to book out.

Miscellaneous Costs

Exchange Rates July 1989

Sterling £1 = Rs 9;

Dollar $1 = Rs 5.4

Charges whilst in the Seychelles

Per Yacht of less then 20 GRT Rs 50 per day

Per Yacht of 20 300 GRT Rs 100 per day

Per Yacht of over 300 GRT Rs 6,000 per day

Temporary Yacht Club Membership per Calendar Month: Rs 140 per person (Membership is waived for members of all Indian and South African, Mombasa, Hong Kong and Point Yacht Clubs).

Beer (25cl) Rs 7

Spirits Rs 7

Soft Drink Rs 3

Curry/Meals Rs 23 29

Egg & Chips Rs 15

Fuel and Gas

Diesel Rs 4.27 per litre from pump in town

Petrol (Premium only available) Rs 5.20 per litre

Butane Gas: Rs 16.50 per kilo

(Diesel can be taken direct from the quay next to the Yacht Club into your dinghy. Surcharge of Rs10 per 100 litres.

Telephone (minimum 3 minutes) Cable & Wireless, Victoria Hotels

UK/USA Rs 25.16/min

USA Rs 33/min approx

Kenya Rs 12.9/min

Switzerland Rs 30.32/min

Sample Groceries

Beer (25 cl) Rs 6 (Rs 1 return on bottle)

Bread large Brown: Rs 10

Butter Rs 9 per 250 g

Cheese (Normal) Rs 60 per Kg

Eggs Rs 1 each

Milk Long Life Rs 2.95 per half litre

Margarine Rs 5 per 250 g

Rice Rs 5 15 per kilo

Apples Rs 26 per Kg

Carrots (Imported) Rs 22/kg

Lettuce Rs 3 to 5 each

Potatoes Rs 9 per Kg

Tomatoes Rs 15 per Kg

Landing Charges

Frigate: Rs 30 per person

Desroches: Rs 20 per person

Postage to Europe

Post Cards (Small): Rs 2

Letters/PC 's (Large): Rs 3

Transport

Taxis very approximately Rs 5 per Km

Buses very approximately Rs 0.25 per Km and less

Cycles approximately Rs 25 30 per day (Very negotiable!)

Air to Frigate Rs 135 single

Air to Desroches Rs 400 single

Boat Slip/Craneage Naval Services, Victoria. (Slip Manager: Mr Dubignon)

Charge to pull out and relaunch Rs 50/metre

Daily Charge on slip Rs 15/metre/day

Crane PER LIFT Rs 600

Daily Charge on Hard Rs 10/metre/day for 14 days,

Rs 5/metre/day thereafter

Yamaha Outboards Long Shaft (Duty Paid)

5 Hp Rs 4,500

8 Hp Rs 5,470

15 Hp Rs 7,527 (Rs 6,690 Duty Free)

25 Hp Rs 9,471 (Rs 8,418 Duty Free)

The agent for these is Abhaye International, P.O. Box 175, Mahe. Phone 22614. All these may be obtained duty free at a reduction of 15%. Larger motors have a higher duty of up to 45%. Other yacht supplies and spares may also be imported duty free, but they must either be imported specifically for the end purchaser or not yet have been taken out of bond by the dealer. Duty cannot be reclaimed on goods which have been taken out of bond and on which duty has already been paid. Contact Mr Viel or Mr Didon, his Assistant for information and application forms.

Charts

These are available from the Port Authority Office at Rs 150 each, but are said to be of poor quality.

Victoria, Mahe

Being the main port and capital, the buoyage, lights and port control at Victoria all seemed to be working efficiently and it should be possible to enter at night on the leading lights. The Victoria Lighthouse has a strobe above the light, presumably to help distinguish it from the town and harbour lights. The domes on the hills above Victoria, which are an American satellite tracking station, are well lit at night, with fixed and flashing red lights (from NE only) and yellow flood lights.

By day a yacht can come in from the North, keeping to the West of the buoyed channel to save distance, or from the South or East through the St Anne 's channel which is straightforward or Cerf Channel which looked easy but we didn 't try. Take care of the reef surrounding and extending from the Victoria Lighthouse as it is difficult to see if the weather is light and the sun is ahead.

Having written the above, we approached from the south one night and found that the light on Police Point at the Southern end of the island was flashing every 3.5 secs and not Fl (2) 15.4 seconds as on the latest chart and list of lights, so take nothing for granted. We also found at least two of the island lights not working when we visited.

On obtaining clearance, we proceeded to the harbour, turning to starboard on entering and anchored in some 7 metres, East of Houdoul Islet. The holding is not good due the harbour having been dredged recently and, as there are normally quite a few yachts in the anchorage there is often not as much swinging room as you would like. Most yachts seemed to have two anchors down and we used a 60 lb. CQR with an additional 20 lb Bruce hitched on to the cable about 15 metres along and had no problems thereafter. The West side of the anchorage seemed to offer rather better holding.

If you arrive in the evening or weekend and have no local money, the Seychelles Yacht Club will allow the crew to sign for food and drinks until they can change their cash. The SYC charges Rs 140 per person per calendar month for temporary membership. Thereafter drinks and food, which are said to be the cheapest in town, are paid cash. They have a reciprocal arrangement with Mombasa, Point, Hong Kong, South African and Indian YC 's whose members do not have to pay the Rs 140 temporary membership for the first month. Post may be addressed to yachts at the club, the address being Seychelles Yacht Club, P.O. Box 504, Victoria, Mahe, Seychelles. The Poste Restant at the central Post Office also works.

Cold showers are available the club and there is a tap for water near the landing stage. It smelt a bit chlorinated but passed the cuppa tea test!

Petrol and diesel are available from a station on the far side of the sports stadium located directly opposite the YC entrance. The shortest route being to take the path around the left of the Stadium. Prices are Rs 5.21/litre for petrol and Rs 4.27 for diesel. Diesel may be more easily obtained from the quay next to the Yacht Club at a small premium of Rs 10 per 100 litres. This would need to be obtained by dinghy unless you have a shallow draught.

Turn right out of the YC and left at the big roundabout to find Barclays and the National Bank which are open 0830 to 1330 Monday to Friday and to 1100 hrs on Saturdays. Go on a bit further to the Clock Tower (a miniature Big Ben) and the PO is on the right. The museum is on the same side of the road as the PO, towards the harbour.

The Immigration Offices are on the abovementioned roundabout in Independance House.

Turn right at the clock tower up Albert Street, to find other shops and a Supermarket. The fruit, fish and meat markets are on Market Street, which is the second road to the left up Albert Street. Barclays have another branch at the end of the road.

Camping Gaz and other bottles, can be filled at the main depot which is near the Generating Station, to the right off Latanier Road just before reaching the Port Security Gates. They will fill the bottles whilst you wait and you may check the weight also. Cost is Rs 16.50 per kilogram.

There is a laundry which is behind the building to the right of Liqui Air Ltd, on the South East end of Francis Rachel Street. There is a sign at the gate. Prices are quite high and the quality of washing varies, but it is there!

You may phone Internationally from Cable & Wireless also on Francis Rachel Street, but towards town. Charges to UK are Rs150 for 3-minute minimum call. (See paragraph on Costs). Open 24 hours. Telexes may be received at Cable & Wireless. Telex Number 2210.

Ice can be obtained from the Fish Quay on the northern side of the harbour.

La Digue

The only anchorage available at La Digue is either in La Passe harbour possible, but often crowded or just outside. The latter is a bit swelly at times but a reasonable and safe anchorage. The holding is patchy so we put down two anchors and plenty of scope. Once we managed to get the cable around a coral head but freed it wearing snorkel and goggles from the dinghy.

The approach from the South is straightforward and the uniquely shaped rocks outside the harbour are conspicuous. There are port and starboard beacons as well as clear leading lights (2 F.R.) and marks in. The light on these rocks (Fl 5s) was operating whilst we were there.

From the North take care of the Roches Canales in the middle of the passage between La Digue and Praslin. These rocks are often difficult to see and are just awash.

Mooring within the harbour is Mediterranean style, with an anchor out and lines taken ashore to the palm trees. There is an L shaped quay that is in constant use for the loading and unloading of goods and passengers from the local schooners so one could not moor alongside. There are barely 2 metres of water in the harbour or alongside at low water springs but a landing may be made by dinghy.

The Post office and Police station is straight in front of the harbour. There are several small shops up to the right for groceries etc. and a bakery is open from 0700 to 1800 on weekdays just to the left behind the Police Station. Barclays Bank has a branch which is open Tuesdays and Thursdays from 1000 hrs to 1400 hrs. Service is very slow!

La Digue Lodge is a pleasant hotel with the usual facilities, a dive shop, bars, restaurant, toilets (with showers). It is possible to telephone to Europe from there at a premium.

One of the more interesting things for is a boatbuilding yard, with a full sized, clean and well equipped sail loft having several large sewing machines, including one set in the floor. They have a stock of good quality sailcloths. We had a major repair done to our genoa, replacing a complete new panel, that has so far stood up to some hard sailing. The price compared favourably with England. The address of the Yard is simply Boatbuilders Ltd, La Digue. The Administrative Director is M. Gregoire and the Technical Director M. Peylan. Their telephone is 34245 and Telex 2335 UNIBOT SZ.

There are some good walks and bike rides on the island and the usual things to see such as giant tortoises, a copra factory and a wood carving shop which seems to export their signs to several other islands for bars etc.

There is excellent diving to be had on the Roches Canales providing you are prepared to put up with large swells and some current (SE Monsoon only). Also by Isles de Cocos, but the area was closed whilst we were there.

La Dique island is pleasant and well worth a visit.

St Anne 's Bay, Praslin

This bay is one of the two approved anchorages for Praslin and has little to recommend it during the SE Monsoon, being shallow and swelly.

There are two shoals on the western approach that must be avoided as they both break heavily. A bearing of 295?M on the pier end and church tower will bring you past both these. The water off the pier end is shallow and there are several laid moorings just beyond for the schooners, so anchor NE of these in rather deeper water. The holding seemed sound.

The Police station to which one should report, is on the road to the right of the petrol station near Anse L 'Amour. The Post office is in the same building. There are several small shops but few other facilities.

Cote D 'Or (Curieuse Bay), Praslin

Cote d 'Or was the second authorised anchorage whilst we were in Praslin. The official anchorage is apparently off the hotel at the Eastern end of the bay but, although shallow, encumbered with coral heads and not easy to find one 's way into, has plenty of space, good holding and is quite calm.

The approach is on about 200°(m) on the pitched roofs of the hotel, leaving the Easternmost of the exposed rocks about 200 metres to starboard. There is a coral head within 1.5 metres of the surface some 100 metres from it that must be avoided. Continue on the same bearing, into about 3 metres of water. There are a number of coral heads on the approach but we found none less than 2.5 metres from the surface. As usual, it is best to go in just before high water with the sun behind or high in the sky. There is often one of the local schooners anchored there to indicate the anchorage.

The best anchorage is without question, off Anse Petit Cour. Do not go in too far as it shallows very rapidly. If the light on Point Zanguille is kept in sight you will have enough water. This is not an authorised anchorage but we used it twice or more. Although the Police questioned us on one occasion and asked us to obtain permission from Mahe, nobody else objected. However, it should be noted that the hotel there, "La Reserve", is a private property and no unauthorised landing is permitted. They do however have a good restaurant and relations can be established with the management. If you land there beach the dinghy by the restaurant and ask permission to cross their land at the reception.

It is also possible to anchor in Anse Possession to the West of Petit Cour but we found it swelly.

Another anchorage we tried was in the lee of Chauve Souris Island but although there was plenty of water it was swelly. There is a rock awash shown on the chart between St Pierre and Chauve Souris, but although we searched for it we never located it. There is also an extensive shallow patch to the NW of the line between St Pierre and Chauve Souris, with a minimum depth of 1.7 meters and this certainly does exist, but is difficult to see.

We found two good diving areas. One off St Pierre to the west near to the rocks awash and one off Curieuse, some 4 cables off Grand Anse. The former a typical rock dive and the other coral. The abovementioned patch is comprised of coral heads and should also be a good dive/snorkelling area.

We visited the Turtle Pond on Curieuse but no turtles were spotted. The anchorage off the pond is hazardous as the SE blows straight in.

Cote d 'Or bay is very scenic, with several hotels and restaurants etc. and worth visiting. It makes a better base in Praslin than St Anne and you can book in and out with the Police by cycling or taking a bus to St Anne (Rs 2).

Frigate Island

Approaches to Frigate from the north are generally clear, with the notable exception of the Noddy Rocks, which are awash. However these usually break in any swell and were easily seen whilst we were there.

The lodge faces the NE, but in either monsoon the beach is untenable as an anchorage, with very large swells creating huge rollers on the reef. A way has been cut through the reef to allow dinghies and small boats to land opposite the boathouse, although it is difficult to pick out in heavy swell. One needs a fairly powerful outboard and a steady nerve to land here when conditions are rough.

The best anchorage during the SE is at Anse Victorin in 7 10 metres, tending towards the East side of the bay some 200 300 metres off. The bottom is sand and good holding. A landing may be made here, but the shore is very steep too and the swell powerful.

The island is quite the nicest we visited in this area, with a small lodge, friendly staff, relaxed atmosphere and good walks etc. Buffet lunch was Rs 100 and evening meal Rs 125. Citrus fruits, mangoes and of course coconuts were strewn on the pathways and cultivated fruits such as bananas and pawpaw could be obtained from the hotel. The diving off the Noddy Rocks was excellent, though very swelly. The island is also the last remaining home for the Magpie Robin, worldwide.

There is an airstrip at Frigate.

Denis Island

It is best to approach Denis from the W or NW avoiding the large swells to the East. In particular avoid the area to the NNE where the reef is shown to curve back in, as it breaks heavily even though 8 10 metres of depth are shown.

The anchorage is at the western end, with the light bearing around 122°, in 2 3 metres. There are some coral heads and a dark weedy patch to the west of the 0.3m drying patch shown, but none seemed very close to the surface.

Whilst we were there the SE had been blowing fairly hard for some time and the anchorage was very swelly and uncomfortable, though safe.

The island is typical of the coral islands, being featureless with little to recommend it. There is a hotel with 25 rooms, which has little character. They carry no change in the bar and make no effort to obtain any, so if you go for a drink take small change, as having taken only larger notes, we were held to ransom, which made our beers the most expensive in the Seychelles!

African Islands

We called at the African Islands on the way to Mahe for one night as we had some urgent repairs to make and also one of our crew was sick. Strictly speaking we should not have stopped before clearing Mahe, especially as it a prohibited anchorage, as we discovered later in Victoria.

It is important to approach from the West as the East and North sides are steep to and apart from the rollers, no warning is given by the depth-sounder.

The light on North Island is not reliable. It was not working on the night we approached but by chance was serviced the following day. It then flashed 1 every 10 seconds, not 2 every 10, as shown on the charts.

We anchored in the lee of South Island with the wreck of a tanker barge on the beach bearing 148o and the light on North Island on 033° magnetic, in 4 5 metres. There are however numerous coral heads on the approach so care needs to be taken as normal!

There was good snorkelling around the boat and closer to the shore, with shark, turtles and plenty of fish seen. It is possible to walk for quite a distance at low water from South Island along the reef.

Off North Island there is a sheltered anchorage with the light bearing 053°, but again with several coral heads in the approach.

North Island was packed with Terns, with eggs and youngsters everywhere. These were mainly Noddies plus a number of Sooty. They all created a great cacophony of noise and a considerable smell in such a tiny area!

In all a beautiful, totally isolated place. Potentially the diving should be excellent, but remember it is a prohibited area!

Ile Desroches, Amirantes

The approach to Iles Deroches can, in all but the worst weather, be made from any direction from the WSW through to East, with the possible exception of Shark Rocks, though we did cross them several times whilst out diving and fishing.

The best anchorage is towards the Western end of the island in 10 12 metres in sand. However it is possible to anchor almost anywhere along the Northern coast, but keep clear of the occasional patches of coral to avoid damaging it. There are some perfect leaf corals and the snorkelling here is good.

There is a new hotel (opened 1988) with all modern facilities including an INMARSAT satellite communication centre. Restaurant prices are not too astronomical (Lunch Rs80) and the building has been blended in quite well. The same comments apply with reference to the bar cash float however!

There is a well equipped water sports centre, with scuba diving, Hobie Cats, water scooters, deep sea and bottom fishing etc. etc. The scuba diving is excellent, especially off the reef to the West where there are good drop offs with plenty of fish including a variety of large sharks.

The island grows it 's own vegetables and has hens etc. so it 's possible to buy or barter for these. We in fact caught several respectably sized fish on the reef and bartered these.

Because of the excellent anchorage, good diving and pleasant ambience, the island came high on our list of favourites.

There is an airstrip on the island capable of taking a Lear jet which we witnessed landing and taking off.

Aldabra Group

The Aldabra Group, lying at 9°25 'S 46°20’E, is administered by the Seychelles Government. Permission must be obtained from Victoria before visiting there. The Warden on the island is in constant radio contact with the authorities there and, unless you have a genuine breakdown, will not allow you to stay or land. We visited there between the 20th and 27th August 1989. Tides were on springs.

The Settlement, with nine people living there when we visited, is situated at the seaward side of the southern end of West Island. During the SE monsoon the best anchorage is off the north of West Point, on the NW corner of West Island, in 10 to 15 metres of water. Wind still penetrates to the anchorage and we experienced a bit of swell when the tide turned, some 2 hours after high and low water, but it was not uncomfortable.

A low reef is exposed off the anchorage at L.W. springs and one needs to wait until L.W. plus 3 hours for this to cover to gain access by dinghy to the inner lagoon.

Once ashore, the walk to the settlement takes 15 20 minutes along a path and through the old settlement. We met several of the giant tortoises on the way and evidence of several turtle nests. The anchorage itself was rich in marine life, with Hawksbill turtles, dolphin, garfish etc. in evidence.

The Warden when we visited was Mr Victorin Laboudallon who came out by dinghy to greet us on arrival, with Mason Valentin the Meteorologist of the station and Jack who is on charge of the maintenance on the island. Mr Laboudallon is himself an Orthinologist and studied in America at Cornell.

They have only limited supplies of everything on the island so anything you can take by way of fruit, vegetables and eggs etc will be very welcome. The scientific station is equipped with laboratories and a library of scientific books that can occupy several hours or days of your time.

We first visited Main Channel in the inflatable, for an exploratory snorkel/dive. The channel is steep sided with a coral drop off going well inside. The fish are found mainly along the drop off, as to be expected, and are there in great abundance. We went in at slack water, two hours after high tide, and did a drift dive to the entrance which was very rewarding, but be careful of the tide as it runs at up to 7 knots.

We had thought of anchoring on the western side of the entrance, to reduce the dinghy passage, but this was impractical as the wind blows straight down the channel and this, combined with the tidal flow and swell from the ocean would make it extremely uncomfortable but probably safe as one is on a weather shore.

We took several walks on the islands, which were quite arduous and difficult on the feet! You need strong soled walking shoes or trainers as a lot of the ground is very sharp spikey coral and extremely tiring to walk very far on. However, the walks are well worth while with giant tortoises on the paths, nesting Frigate and Boobies in the mangroves and the odd goat around for a change! There are coral overhangs over the sea and we were rewarded with the sight of shark, rays, barracuda and other fish seen from these vantage points.