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Jim and Katie Thomsen – S/V Tenaya

Reports
Aitutaki – 18°51.00'S, 159°47.00'W
Avatui – 21°12.00'S, 159°47.00'W
Palmerston Island – 18°03.00'S, 163°11.00'W
Penrhyn (Tongareva) – 09°00.00'S, 158°04.00'W
Suwarrow – 13°16.00'S, 163°06.00'W



Aitutaki
Yachts approaching Aitutaki should note that the anchorage outside the pass is at appr. 18 51.3S 159 48.5W. This is some way from what is indicated in Charlies Charts. The pass itself is said to be silting up as the designated dredger has been sitting onshore awaiting repair for some time. An hour before HW neaps we found a minimum depth of 1.7m (we ground at 1.6m) for about 50m in the region of the pass nearest to the obvious wreck of a barge. Once in, care must be taken in anchoring due to the current and the presence of numerous coral heads. Those who do make it in will find a beautiful island with very friendly people. The reputation for magnificent singing in church is well deserved. Graeme & Gillian Mulcahy S/Y Kathleen Love.
INFORMATION SUBMITTED By John & Julie Davies - Endu
2) DATE 1998
3) HARBOUR OR AREA COVERED Aitutaki, Cook Islands. 18º51?S 159º47?W
4) SUITABILITY AND ATTRACTION FOR YACHTS Excellent provided that your draft allows you to enter the pass.
5) MARINAS, BERTHING OR ANCHORAGE Well protected tiny harbour at the main village of Arutunga where there is room for perhaps a dozen yachts to anchor bow and stern in about 2.2 metres (or to lie alongside the wharf provided that an infrequent supply ship is not being unloaded by lighter). Unfortunately there is a shallow area of sand in the approach channel limiting the draft to about 2.0 metres maximum. There is talk of having it dredged. Anchorage can be taken on the reef just outside the pass but protection is iffy. There is a small tug available in the harbour if you get stuck on the shallows.
6) ENTRY PORTS Aruntanga
7) FORMAL REQUIREMENTS FOR YACHTS ENTERING/DEPARTING
a) from/to same country Book in at the Island Administration Centre.
b) from/to abroad Health & Agriculture officials must come aboard. Customs & Immigration at the Administration centre.
c) visa requirements None
8) LOCATION/EXISTENCE OF
a) harbour master There is a Port Office occasionally manned.
b) customs/immigration At the Island Administration Centre
c) health authorities Must come aboard on arrival
d) police Office by the wharf
9) CONTROL OF FOREIGN YACHTS 31 days stay extendible.
10) ATTITUDE OF OFFICIALS TO VISITING YACHTSMEN Wonderful!
11) REPAIR/HAULING FACILITIES Close to nil 1
2) SAILING DIRECTIONS OR CHARTS Charlies charts. South Pacific anchorages. Pacific Crossing Guide.
13) PORT RADIO SERVICES Somebody may be listening to VHF Ch 16. 14) WEATHER FORECASTS As per rest of Pacific. No locals forecasts
15) YACHT CLUB(S) None, but the Fisherman’s Club on the wharf welcomes cruisers.
16) OTHER FACILITIES -
a) drinking water From a cistern near the wharf
b) fuel Petrol/diesel available bear the wharf
c) gas (propane)/gaz/ Tanks can be filled
d) chandlers None, but there is a hardware shop
e) bank Admin Centre will cash travellers cheques & exchange money. Westpac bank will cash credit cards on Wednesdays only.
f) shops/market Several, well stocked little shops. Good bread, vegetables |(when available) and fruit.
g) restaurants/hotels Several, prices reasonable.
h) post office/telephones Phone & Fax at the PO near the wharf
i) best mailing address Poste Restante, Aitutaki, Cook Islands.
j) showers On the wharf
k) laundry No
l) transport/air services) Rent a scooter very cheaply. Several flights a day to Rarotonga.
m) hospital Yes
n) anything else
No 17) FIRST HAND RECOMMENDATIONS OR WARNINGS The most welcoming island we have ever visited. Don’t miss the superb Polynesian dancing and drumming. Groups can be seen at the local restaurants. Also visit the Marine Station to see clams being bred.

Avatui
1) Information Submitted by Graham Morfey – Flight of Time Tim & Annabel Finding Casimir Jack & Peggy Heddy - Scimitar

2) Date 1995 & 2000

3) Harbour or Area Covered Include Lat & Long Avatiu Harbour, Rarotonga Island, Cook Islands. 21º12?S 159º47?W

4) Suitability and Attraction for Yachts Rarotonga is the largest of the 15 Cook Islands and the seat of government. The small harbour of Avatiu is just to the west of the capital, Avarua, and is very limited on space. The island is 32 kms round and has a fringing reef with a shallow lagoon not navigable by yachts. The islanders are very friendly, proud of their traditional navigation skills and large ocean going canoes. After the high costs in French Polynesia, the prices for goods and services are much more reasonable (New Zealand currency).

5) Marinas, Berthing or Anchorage Contact the Harbour master well in advance with an estimated date and time of arrival, if possible, as space is very limited and the harbour can become very crowded at peak cruising time. Anchoring is accomplished by dropping a bow anchor and running a stern line to the quay or a mooring buoy as directed by the Harbour master. Moorings need to be adjusted fairly frequently owing to yachts arriving and leaving and wind changes. The harbour is untenable in northerly winds and one will be asked to leave. Normally stern to the jetty but go alongside on the West wall when arriving. The mud is soft so use plenty of chain. Do not believe people who say the harbour is full. The Harbourmaster (Don Silk) is the most helpful and friendly harbourmaster we have ever met and I am sure he will always fit in one more.

6) Entry Ports Rarotonga, Aitutaki, Penrhyn and Atiu

7) Formal Requirements for Yachts Entering/Departing:

a) from/to same country Before departing for other Cook Islands, yachts need to obtain a visiting permit from Immigration

b) from/to abroad To check in you must come to the dock and stay on board. Call the Harbour master or Rarotonga Radio and they will send a Health officer to your yacht who will spray for bugs. You are then required to check in with Immigration (they come to your boat), Customs and the Port authority. Upon check out you go to Immigration, Customs and Port Authority. There is a NZ$25 per person exit fee charged. Harbourmaster, Immigration and Customs all in port area.

c) visa requirements 31 day visa available upon arrival, extensions up to a maximum of 4 months.

8) Location/Existence of:

a) harbour master Adjacent to the wharf

b) customs/immigration Immigration is west of the harbour about 2 km. Customs is east of the harbour about 1 km.

c) health authorities

d) police West of the harbour near the Customs office.

9) Control of Foreign Yachts

10) Attitude of Officials to Visiting Yachtsmen Officials all seem friendly but businesslike. Overtime is charged for weekend or night check-in. Yachts leaving port other than during business hours may be charged overtime. (Office hours are 0830 - 1700 Mon to Fri)

11) Repair/Hauling Facilities There is a small boatyard next to the Navy pier which may be of help for emergency repairs.

12) Sailing Directions or Charts General - BA 4606, Approach & Harbour NZ 9558 or American DMA 84325.

13) Cruising Guide and where Obtainable. Include Phone and/or E-Mail

14) Port Radio Services Rarotonga Radio on VHF Ch 16.

15) Weather Forecasts Arnold of ‘Arnold’s Weather net’ has retired and left the island. See CIS G001 and G002 for other weather channels.

16) Yacht Club(S) None.

17) Other Facilities: drinking water Available at the wharf. fuel A tanker comes once a week; talk to the Harbourmaster. 200 litre drums available from the Standard Oil depot; Smaller quantities purchased at the petrol station in town. gas (propane)/gaz Available in port area behind the Port Authority warehouse. chandlers Some items may be found in local hardware stores. bank Several located in Avarua. shops/market Several good and reasonably priced supermarkets. Open air market close to harbour. restaurants/hotels Many located all round the island. Excellent selection. Our favourite was Trader Jacks. post office/telephones including mobile facilities Faxes can be received at the Port Authority office on 00 682 21191 at no charge. Faxes and International calls can be made 24 hours/7 days a week from the Telecom office in Avarua where BT charge cards can be used. internet cafes Excellent service and reasonable located opposite the cinema. best mailing address Poste Restante, Main Post Office, Avarua, Rarotonga but do check under name of yacht as well as your surname. showers In Port Authority building. laundry Arranged via Harbourmaster. Washing machines & driers in Port Authority building; also a laundromat in Avarua. transport/air services Buses around the island leaving every half hour approx. Internal flights to other Cook islands. International flights to NZ, Honolulu, Australia, USA, Fiji & Tahiti. medical facilities/hospital Rarotonga Hospital - well equipped and staffed.

18) Recommendations or Warnings An English speaking island which is delightful. Hire motorbikes and enjoy the sights. Two theatres in Avarua show American films. Good craft shops. Good facilities and reasonable price for learning to dive; much cheaper than French Polynesia. The Cook islands are strongly religious and visitors are welcome at the Cook Islands Christian Church and Catholic cathedral in Avarua.

19) Other Information – please include here general impressions, opinions, comments or any other matter which might be of use to those visiting. Constitution Day is August 4th with celebrations going on during the week before. The local dance groups are reputed to be the best in Polynesia so don’t miss the competitions. The whole week is filled with daily activities. Rarotonga is very much cheaper than French Polynesia and many yachts’ crews take the opportunity to hire mopeds, bicycles and cars to explore the island. The Cross-Island Trek is well recommended, it takes about 5 hours with stops for lunch and a swim at the waterfall.

Palmerston Island
1) Information Submitted by Graham Morfey –Flight of Time John and Julie Davies - Enduro
2) Date 1998 and 2000
3) Harbour or Area Covered Include Lat & Long Palmerston Atoll, Cook Islands 18°03’S 163°11’ W
4) Suitability and Attraction for Yachts Unbelievably hospitable. Iffy anchorage.
5) Marinas, Berthing or Anchorage The locals will meet you and tell you exactly where to drop the anchor. There were half a dozen yachts anchored and it was quite safe so long as it did not become a lee shore. Anchorage only outside the reef. The islanders will lead you to the best anchorage position which, in normal easterly winds, is just north of the south-west motu which is called Palmerston Island. You must anchor very close to the reef but it is well-protected in reasonable trade wind conditions. There were seven other yachts anchored there at the same time as us. A warning about the anchorage. After holding solidly through five days of gale-force winds our anchor broke free from the coral one morning and Enduro set off across the Pacific by herself. If you are ashore as we were and you hear the news on the VHF it can spoil your day. In the event the islanders had us back aboard in five minutes.
6) Entry Ports Palmerston is not an entry port for the Cooks but yachts which have not previously cleared in officially at Rarotonga or Aitutaki can expect to be allowed to stay unofficially for several days or even longer.
7) Formal Requirements for Yachts Entering/Departing: a) from/to same country Limited check of papers b) from/to abroad Should have cleared inwards at an official entry port before arriving at Palmerston. Fly the Q flag. c) visa requirements None 8) Location/Existence of:
a) harbour master None.
b) customs/immigration Will come aboard on arrival
c) health authorities Will come aboard on arrival.
d) police One of the islanders is paid to be the policeman!
9) Control of Foreign Yachts Thirty one days are granted on arrival in the Cooks. Can be extended with no problems
10) Attitude of Officials to Visiting Yachtsmen Wonderful!
11) Repair/Hauling Facilities Close to nil. However the islanders are, by necessity, masters at fixing things and have a good range of equipment such as welding kit.
12) Sailing Directions or Charts AC 4630, Charlie’s Charts.
13) Cruising Guide and where Obtainable. Include Phone and/or E-Mail
14) Port Radio Services Most village houses normally monitor Channel 16 during waking hours so somebody is likely to be listening. The island radio station uses SSB to talk to the government in Rarotonga. David, the operator, is normally very happy to arrange a schedule with yachts. Pick up the current schedule time and frequency over the radio grapevine. David’s callsign is Palmerston Radio.
15) Weather Forecasts As per rest of Pacific. No local forecasts.
16) Yacht Club(S) The new Palmerston Island Yacht Club has been established by Bill Marsters as a venue for visiting cruisers. It is simply an open-sided, palm-roofed building in the centre of the village offering showers and somewhere to congregate.
17) Other Facilities:
drinking water Limited amounts can be obtained from the islanders.
fuel None. In fact the islanders greatly appreciate being given petrol (gas) by visiting cruisers in return for the non-stop ferry service that they provide in their skiffs.
gas (propane)/gaz None.
chandlers None.
bank None.
shops/market There is a tiny island store selling corned beef, chocolate, and similar staple items.
restaurants/hotels None.
post office/telephones including mobile facilities None.
internet cafes None.
best mailing address No regular mail service
showers The islanders normally offer the use of their own showers.
laundry None, but the islanders insisted that we used their washing machines
transport/air services None
medical facilities/hospital None. There is an island medic whose skills seem to be limited to first aid.
18) Recommendations or Warnings Do not leave Rarotonga or Aitutaki without finding out what (or who) needs delivering to Palmerston – especially the mail from Rarotonga.
19) Other Information – please include here general impressions, opinions, comments or any other matter which might be of use to those visiting. At the time of our visit there were thirty-five people living on the island divided into the three Marsters families established in 1863 by William Marsters. The families compete with each other to be the first to meet every arriving yacht and hence be its hosts for the whole time that the yacht remains at the atoll. Your hosts will take you ashore every day in their skiff - it is far too dangerous to take your own dinghy through the reef. You will be expected to make use of their house and join them for meals and, if you wish, participate in all their daily activities. Their hospitality is overwhelming. They will not accept direct repayment for their astonishing kindness but you will have many things on board which make ideal presents. We parted with most of our petrol, a 12volt battery, a car radio/tape player, a diving mask and snorkel, reflective tape, much tinned food and fresh vegetables, spare cordage, cosmetics, music tapes, video tapes, and all sorts of things of interest to small children.

Penrhyn (Tongareva)
1) INFORMATION SUBMITTED BY Christopher Robinson - Rising Star 2) DATE 1993 3) HARBOUR OR AREA COVERED Penrhyn (also known as Tongareva) Cook Islands 9º00?S 158º04?W (Taruia Pass) 4) SUITABILITY AND ATTRACTION FOR YACHTS Penrhyn is a delightful atoll and the Cook Islanders are wonderfully hospitable people 5) MARINAS, BERTHING OR ANCHORAGE Once inside the pass there are beacons marking the dangers and the channel to the village. Keep a good look out for coral heads. The village of Omoka, immediately inside the pass to starboard, is where to anchor to clear in and out. The anchorage is not very good, the holding is poor in fairly deep water and there are coral heads that are hard to see in the murky water. The better anchorage is across the lagoon by the village of Te Tautua. Local knowledge is available and should be consulted. 6) ENTRY PORTS Penrhyn is a Port of Entry for the Cook Islands. 7) FORMAL REQUIREMENTS FOR YACHTS ENTERING/DEPARTING a) from/to same country Check in. b) from/to abroad Check in c) visa requirements 8) LOCATION/EXISTENCE OF a) harbour master None b) customs/immigration Take the dinghy ashore and ask directions for the officer who deals with Customs & Immigration. 9) CONTROL OF FOREIGN YACHTS There is probably a time limit for visiting yachts but I am not aware of it. I believe one is expected to check in and out of each island. Good manners call for a courtesy visit to the head of each village. 10) ATTITUDE OF OFFICIALS TO VISITING YACHTSMEN Visitors are welcome. Obviously one should conduct oneself appropriately and not abuse the people or their environment. 11) REPAIR/HAULING FACILITIES None 12) SAILING DIRECTIONS OR CHARTS BA 997 or Charlie’s Charts. 13) PORT RADIO SERVICES None 14) WEATHER FORECASTS None 15) YACHT CLUB(S) None 16) OTHER FACILITIES - a) drinking water Depending upon the rainfall the village would let one top up tanks with jerry cans. b) fuel None. May be available from visiting Naval ship. c) gas (propane)/gaz/ None. May be available from visiting Naval ship. Kerosene is available d) chandlers None e) bank Thought to use NZ currency, may be possible to change traveller’s cheques at the PO. f) shops/market Limited, but some canned goods can be purchased. No doubt local produce can be traded as we did to obtain breadfruit. g) restaurants/hotels h) post office/telephones I am pretty sure there is a Post Office in each village but no telephone. i) best mailing address j) showers No k) laundry l) transport/air services) m) hospital I am not aware of any medical facilities but it is probable there are some. n) anything else The Cook Islanders have limited local resources and therefore yachts should be as well supplied as possible so as not to be a burden on the local people. 17) FIRST HAND RECOMMENDATIONS OR WARNINGS There are a group of older men who love to trade pearls of inferior quality, shells and produce for clothing and anything else you might have. If you have no experience of this you will find yourself either wanting to be polite and obliging or firmly resistant of their intrusion. Each must decide for themselves. I did trade with them and then regretted it because I could not get rid of them without being unnaturally impolite. Nothing I obtained was worth anything and threw it all away in the end. The islands, other than the traders who besiege your boat, do have crafts to trade and a genuine need for household goods and clothes. Tape cassettes are highly valued.

Suwarrow
This is a truly idyllic Atoll; it is a new Zealand National Park and is ununhabited save for two rangers present from around May/June though September.(see Suwarrow Rules attached)

No facilities at all = nor any formalities but keep the place as pristine as you find it.

Entrance: Pretty straight forward - see attachment. Use the deeper eastern channel. Expect maximum current of 4 knots in the pass. Anchor off the delapidated dinghy dock. Be alert of wind shifts which can trash you onto the coral if you are not alert.

Reefs off the anchorage are good snorkelling - Eagle and Manta rays. Good coral. Dinghy to Bird Island for an ornithological experience (Nesting Frigates, Boobies and Terns).

This is a shark nursery; lots of inquisative baby sharks principally black tipped but some grey sharks too. Swim only when the sun is high!

1) INFORMATION SUBMITTED BY Hugh & Cathie Marriott - Tacit

2) DATE 1995

3) HARBOUR OR AREA COVERED Suwarrow Atoll, Northern Cook Islands 13º14 'S 163º06 'W Lat & Long

4) SUITABILITY AND ATTRACTION FOR YACHTS More or less on the track of yachts on passage between Bora Bora and Samoa. This is the atoll where New Zealander, Tom Neale, spent a total of 15 years living as a hermit, and wrote his book, ‘An Island to Oneself’ '. Clear water, good fishing

5) MARINAS, BERTHING OR ANCHORAGE Good anchorage in the lee of Anchorage Island, but in winds from the SW it would be necessary to leave

6) ENTRY PORTS Suwarrow is not an entry port of the Cook Islands, but if a caretaker is in residence you will be granted an official minimum of three days there, and an unofficial period of much longer

7) FORMAL REQUIREMENTS FOR YACHTS ENTERING/DEPARTING

a) from/to same country

b) from/to abroad Present your passports to the caretaker, who writes the details in a logbook and charges NZ$5 a day.

c) visa requirements

8) LOCATION/EXISTENCE OF

a) harbour master In Tom Neale’s old hut on Anchorage Island

b) customs/immigration

c) health authorities d) police

9) CONTROL OF FOREIGN YACHTS See above

10) ATTITUDE OF OFFICIALS TO VISITING YACHTSMEN Friendly, to the extent that the caretaking family kept us fed on coconut crabs and groupers throughout our stay

11) REPAIR/HAULING FACILITIES None

12) SAILING DIRECTIONS OR CHARTS Charlie’s Charts are accurate

13) PORT RADIO SERVICES None

14) WEATHER FORECASTS None

15) YACHT CLUB(S) None

18) OTHER INFORMATION This is an emotive place, 500 miles from the nearest land, and well worth experiencing. But it could be a death trap in adverse conditions, and should not be seen as a port of refuge. Suwarrow is a National Park, and the Cook Islands government has declared all but two of the motus out-of-bounds unless you are a tern or a turtle.