Hi Janaki,
You asked about my fuel polishing system. Below is a description of what I do and why. Please feel free to come back with questions/comments.
Dick Stevenson, s/v Alchemy
The following was written for a specific boat, but variations on the basics bellow make polishing fuel possible. If one is building new tanks, a fuel polishing pick-up going to the bottom low corner should be considered.
Fuel polishing serves at least 2 functions: good fuel to the engine and, secondarily, to keep accumulated yuck (technical term) from attacking the tank itself and shortening a tanks life. Many owner designed fuel polishing draws through the pickup tube which leaves the bottom of the tank untouched. On those Valiant 42s (like Alchemy) with saddle tanks it is possible to get to the very bottom through the connecting fitting between tanks. It is relatively easy to tap into this connection to draw fuel from below the pickup tube.
Fuel Polishing for Alchemy, V42-128, with saddle tanks
What I like about this system is that it covers both polishing the fuel and getting crud/water and any loose stuff from the tank bottoms below the pick-up tube. It does not, however, get inside the tank and scrape the sides etc., but the extra cleaning suggestion below does a bit of that.
Our saddle tanks are great in that they have a nipple on each tank at their lower end. The 2 tanks on each side are connected to each other from these low nipples with a valve in between. I broke into the hose near the lower nipple, attached a “T” and added a valve onto the T with a hose fitting.* I now have access to the fuel from the bottom of each tank. The lower tank is of course the more important as stuff migrates there. I did this both port & starboard. There are 2 tanks on each side of a 42 w/ saddle tanks (4 altogether) right next to each other fore and aft. (there are 2 per side to get them into the locker through the hatch: a nice touch as too many boats seal their tanks into the boat when they put the deck on).
I then mounted an old Racor filter (if possible, use the same filter as used on the boat) with hoses and a fuel pump on a board with a cigarette lighter attachment for power for the fuel pump. (Remember, you want to draw fuel through the filter, not push.) I attach the intake hose to the “T”ed off valve fitting and put the outlet into the deck fill. Open the T valve and you are pumping off the bottom of the tanks. Close off the upper tank with the Valiant built in valve and you are only drawing off the lower tank in the corner where crud/water accumulates.
We do an hour or two of polishing each side every 2-3 months or so during the season (or sooner if concerned I have gotten bad fuel). This runs about 17 gal. through the filter which I have been keeping at 10 micron. I take from the bottom and put into the top unless I am emptying a tank for the winter.** We can also pump from drums and guarantee that the fuel from the drums is clean before it gets into the tanks.
Extra tank cleaning
This can be accomplished by disassembly of the valves etc at the base of the tanks. Remove the lower nipple and there is a nice, not big, but nice size hole in the tank wall. Take a dowel with rag sections attached (electrical ties or just tied on) and insert and scrape. Continue as needed. Tedious but does get some yuck. And with a bit of a right angle insert you can get right in the corner.
*Something I recommend in V42s is a simple plywood partition protecting the valve/hose assembly at the base of the tanks from lines etc. that may be stored in the locker. These could get caught on the valves/hose and inadvertently pulled damaging these connections.
**The pump also acts to transfer fuel. I usually empty one tank each winter (into the other) to have Alchemy sit higher in the water. An empty tank will not collect water over a winter (documentation if wished).

Hi again Dick,
I have just picked up your posts.
I am not sure about moving the refrigerant item as although it started out as engine spares, I considered it worth flagging up about the fridge stuff in spares for ocean cruising as once you have left across the ocean you are on your own and the refrigeration systems are not always thought about until to late.

In regard to refrigerant Gas. Any competent refrigeration engineer will tell you never to mix gases ie R12 and 134A, etc and also to ensure you do not use automotive refrigerant. You may well have got away with a little top up, but I am assured you are risking irreparable damage to your compressor.
In Fiji a while ago, I tried to buy more 134A, and found some Chinese canistors. they did not seem quite right to me as it said "substitute 134A refrigerant" I contacted the suppliers in China, they said it was not their gas, someone had cloned their label. So Whoever reads this beware to ensure you are using the correct gas. And buy from a reputable supplier.

Thats all from me on this, its cold beer time!
Brian
S/V Darramy

Hi again all,
In regard to spares for Ocean Cruising.
Another item has come to mind in regard to domestic water taps and piping.
We replaced our mono bloc galley tap a few years ago, and as with many things. Tap design has altered and possibly production has moved to the far east.
The modern method of joining the water supply to the tap from the boats supply is to now use Flexi Connectors. These are certainly not up to the best quality for the marine enviroment.
I am talking about a flexihose with a stainless flexi covering. this stainless is only simple basic stainless. When it deteriorates, it exposes the rubber hose inside to become vulnerable.
We have had two fail over a number of years, so maybe one should check how taps are connected, and if Flexi Connectors, it may be handy to keep a couple of spare hoses in the kit. as we all know if something is going to break it is sods law you will be 1000 miles from the plumbers merchant.
I am considering fitting standard 15mm isolation valves (as in ones house) so a damaged hose can be isolated without loosing the whole pressurized water system.
Food for thought anyway.
Sail safe
Brian
S/V Darramy
edited by bbalme on 10/7/2018

Hi Brian and all,
I try to do a reasonable amount of due diligence on anything I write or suggest on the Forum, especially when harm may occur as could happen in this arena: that said, I would hope that others would check out their choices to their own personal satisfaction and only use the Forum’s information as one arena for data collection. Your challenge to my writing on refrigerants was so aggressive and so global that I re-visited my former due diligence with a local marine refrigeration guy (Canada) to check things out and also called and talked with the designer and manufacturer of major marine refrigeration units in the US before responding.
You are correct to make it clear to never mix gas types: that was never up for discussion, but it is always good to have reminders.
You write, “ensure you do not use automotive refrigerant. You ( meaning me) may well have got away with a little top up, but I am assured you are risking irreparable damage to your compressor”.
Firstly, I have been doing so on my two separate systems (freezer and frig) for over a decade, occasionally for more than just top-ups, and have experienced no damage or problems. All the additions have been from the small automotive canisters and twice it has been with local refrigeration people in attendance (Puerto Rico and in Ireland).
As for extending my former due diligence: the local refrigeration guy said it was perfectly fine to use automotive refrigerant canisters if no oil or leak sealant has been added. I also called the designer/manufacturer of marine refrigeration units who reiterated the same advice, and went on to give another option, if no other alternative, by suggesting that a canister that has had oil and/or leak sealant added, that the refrigerant can still be used. The procedure would be to let the canister sit and settle, tap it from the top and just take the vapor off the top. Do not shake or agitate or turn the canister on its side or over. The oil and sealant will stay on the bottom: the vapor off the top.
Now, I am quite clear that your advice may apply in other countries (this advice came from Fiji?) and that the R134A canisters have to come from a reputable source, but your blanket condemnation does not fit here in the US and Canada and some casual internet research seems to indicate that, in other countries, the condemnation does not fit as well.
I respond in such detail as I share your wish for those wandering widely to be prepared to take care of their refrigeration systems. R134A can be hard to find in many places and often entails licensing of the buyer. A blanket condemnation of all automotive refrigerants is to restrict one’s options in a manner my research and my experience indicates as unnecessary. I always have a couple of canisters on board.
My best, Dick Stevenson, s/v Alchemy

Thanks all for the good ideas and information.

I'm finding the interleaving of the refrigeration topic a bit confusing but such is forum life.... As far as my requirements are concerned refrigeration is not safety-critical so falls very low on my list....

Anyway, any more ideas on safety-critical spares will be gratefully received.

Graham
edited by Janaki.Lennie on 9/28/2018

Janaki,
We carry all of the usual consumables as well as a spare alternator, starter motor, thermostat and a collection of relays. I hadn’t thought about sets of gaskets and hoses but that sounds like a good idea so thanks for the tip.
Simon

Hi all,
A good section might be titled "Offshore Spares Suggestions" where these orphaned posts might find a good home. I would guess an administrator would have to execute that idea if he/she approves.
As for hoses, Simon, I suggested the pre-bends to be the most important to have in spares, then a selection of the hose sizes that seem most prevalent. Finally, a collection of the butt connectors and hose clamps to cover the various sizes. One can always then cut a chafed hose and install a butt connector.
My best, Dick Stevenson, s/v Alchemy

Ask, and you shall receive! https://forum.oceancruisingclub.org/forum193-offshore--remote-area-preparation.aspx

Bill Balme

On the refrigerator repairs subject and in Particular automotive fridge gases, be aware, some of these kits have gas with a sealant added, this will block your capillary tube and render your evaporator plate useless!

Life isn't about waiting for the storm to pass … it's about learning to dance in the rain!